Picked up new motor this weekend may need smaller CAM.....

2quick said:

So I gave the Cylinder Pressures to Tim @ Hughes engines and this is what he said:

New cam
Dur @ .050 - .255 in. / 259 ex.
Lift .600 in. / .615 ex. "Could increase the lift a bit will look into that"
110 LSA "wider LSA will spread power out"



Absolutely do not change the heads! "Big Mopars have air flow issues to begin with"
850 - 950cfm carb w/4150 - 4500 adapter "Adapter will create more plenum volume and increase power"
Compression ratio is probably more closer to 11.6 - 1

In the end approximately 550 trq 500 hp

3500-5000 500trq
5000-6000 550hp

Converter Stall between 3000-3500 "3200"
3.55 - 3.90 gears "whichever I want"

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Seventy said:

SO you are going to keep the intake, heads, and that valve train? I am surprised the motor is only going to be 550hp, I am too used to chevys, lol, 454 with pocket ported oval port heads, 600ish roller cam, 10.5-1, with an 850cfm carb 550hp and about $2500, lol...

The good part is, you can always do anything you want with it later, try it if its not as streetable as you want, change it, cams are cheap...


I know I had some motors in other cars (chevelles and camaros), that were just NOT fun to drive, if I build a prostreet car that is one thing, but a street tire car, I always changed them up to something street ez... Good brakes, nice idle, OK fuel economy, etc,,,

If I were in your shoes, I would wing that top end to someone who wants to pay for it,put a fast fi injection system on a basic aluminum intake, and maybe even a set of source heads, with a mild cam.. Figure $200 cam, $1000 for the heads, $1000 for the FI, $100 for the intake, $200 gaskets and bolts, Ill bet the money from the race parts will fund more than it costs you. I ALSO bet the car will be faster, lol... And guarantee it will be worth more, drive better, last longer, and use less gas...

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Seventy said:

SO you are going to keep the intake, heads, and that valve train? I am surprised the motor is only going to be 550hp, I am too used to chevys, lol, 454 with pocket ported oval port heads, 600ish roller cam, 10.5-1, with an 850cfm carb 550hp and about $2500, lol...

The good part is, you can always do anything you want with it later, try it if its not as streetable as you want, change it, cams are cheap...


I know I had some motors in other cars (chevelles and camaros), that were just NOT fun to drive, if I build a prostreet car that is one thing, but a street tire car, I always changed them up to something street ez... Good brakes, nice idle, OK fuel economy, etc,,,

If I were in your shoes, I would wing that top end to someone who wants to pay for it,put a fast fi injection system on a basic aluminum intake, and maybe even a set of source heads, with a mild cam.. Figure $200 cam, $1000 for the heads, $1000 for the FI, $100 for the intake, $200 gaskets and bolts, Ill bet the money from the race parts will fund more than it costs you. I ALSO bet the car will be faster, lol... And guarantee it will be worth more, drive better, last longer, and use less gas...

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Longroof said:

Sounds like you are more familiar with Chevrolet's. It will be quicker with the OP plan here.

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66Satellite47 said:

I'll jump in here with my 2 pennies. Those are mighty big heads for street driving, however with a good gear (4.10?) & the 3500 type converter, will probably work fine. Your cylinder pressure looks real good, better than mine. My combo has ported EDE Performers, 10.5 CR, Victor intake, 850DP, antique Cam Dynamics 260/265 @.050 - 565/585, 4.10 gear w/3500 converter, 28" tires, 3650# w/me. It works fine on the street although I'm headed toward mostly strip use, only 600 - 800 street miles. I should mention I have 500" though. With my Victor manifold the top of the air cleaner is right at the hood line. I got the extra tall Hemi scoop & have lots of clearance, so the standard Hemi scoop should work OK with the Indy manifold. Also the Hughes cam selection sure looks real good to me, I'm thinking of that one for myself. One more thing, with that short block I'd sure try to keep the RPM 6000 or less. You did get a heckuva deal on that if all the parts are good!

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2quick said:

Hows the 4.10 working out. where I live its kinda rural with long windy 45 mph single lane roads but being jersey, definitely a bunch of intersection traffic. There will be times i need to get on the interstate but not very often. I found a Dana 60 with 4.10's and posi from a 92 ram truck for 200 bucks. think it may be worth it to cut it down with Moser ends and axles. Probably $600 complete.
What rpm @ 60mph you turning? 28" tires here also. If you had a chance to change would you go down or leave alone?

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66Satellite47 said:

For what I'm doing the 4.10's are just right. They work pretty good at the strip and fine on the street since I don't do much freeway driving with it. At 60 MPH it's about 3000 - 3100 RPM, 70 MPH it's like 3700 - 3800 RPM. I wouldn't recommend 4.10's for a lot of freeway driving, but it does help with the steetability of the big heads & cam. I've been a Dana guy for a long time. They don't break. Sounds like you have a good deal on the Dana too, along with the motor. My Dana is narrowed with Moser axles. Seems great.

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HT413 said:

2quick, I think you and Mike should consider working out a trade - top end for top end.

Mike's Indy SEZ (non-max wedge port) heads, Indy Dual Plane and even the Mighty Demon 850 sound a lot more in line with a nasty street/strip monster, and if I recall, mike was recently lamenting his lack of max wedge ports.

The Dude abides.

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2quick said:

Are you mini tubed? How much narrower than stock? I know 66 - 67 B bodies have the narrowest rear off all the B bodies (I don't remember exactly what it is, but narrower) Do you know how much was taken off each side from factory 8 3/4 size or Dana if that's what it came with?

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HT413 said:

If you do plan to minitub, keep in mind that a 4 link allows you to easily adjust the axle position front to back, so you can maximize the room. It's a big job that requires some mods, but just sayin.

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dieseldazzle said:

Long thread, read most of it. Gotta say tho Im curious how your gear vendors is gonna work with 3.90 rear gear and 3800 converter. I would think it will be on the converter alot when in high gear. Let me know how it works out.

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