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Trying my hand at mini-tubbing my 65 Dodge 440...

brian.linn

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Never tried this before... It's a lot of work, so far so good. I installed the sub frame connectors and in the process of cutting down a Dana 60... Not sure about a roll bar yet, I do have a 65 Coronet 330 that will be built as a race car (NSS) in the near future. Just thought I would share.


image9.jpgDrivers inner tub.jpgCutting driver side.jpgimage8.jpgMini Tub 4.jpgMini Tub 2.jpg65 Dodge Mini Tub.jpg
 
First let me say I envy you and the job you are doing (I absolutely hate welding so I am farming out my mini tubbing). What is the absolute widest tire you will be able make work....I think my tires are to wide so I might have to notch the frame or put in a rear clip.
 
I will be running the American Racing Torque Thrust D's 15x10 and the MT Sportsman Pro's 29Tx15.5W... I could possibly go wider. I wanted 31" tall...
 
Looks great! My 69 belvedere is mini tubbed and I bet i could fit 15" wide though it'd be tight. my 12.5" wide MT's fit with ease.
 
Looks great ! ! I did the same thing you've just done this year on my 67 Belvedere Convertible . . . got 16" in there, so a 15" tire "might" fit . . . but I've got room if I need it !
 
Though a 31" will fit I suggest while you're at it move the front edge of the wheel lip forward at least 1". I actually moved mine 4" and the axle forward 3". The pics below are a 10.5wx31 on a 15x10. When I've done the mini tub we've taken the lazy way out. Instead of separating the curved inner edge of the inner wheel house, just make a cut straight across to the frame rail. Then slide the inner wheel house over to the rail. 3 straight butt welds and the floor is done. Good luck. Looks like you're doing great. Welcome to N/SS, you'll love it.
Doug
 

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Looking at the job you're doing one would never know this was your first attempt.
I guess half the battle is just wanting do do it right. Great job!
 
Thanks guys... It's a lot of work. I plan to do a few more minor things when I'm done with this little project. I want to start a 65 Coronet 330 NSS car...
 
It's coming along good. Doug is bang on about moving the front ahead. I run 315's on mine and I had to move the front ahead. With mine I brought the front lip right up flush to the front of the tub. image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 
Makes me rethink buying the US Cartool stuff. I have the machines needed to make my own fillers. Have pan/box brake, bead roller, english wheel, welders etc. Was going to be lazy and use someone else's stuff. The only issue that will take a little thinking is re doing the trunk hinge bracket attachments. Should be able to pull it off. If not, its time to donate my plumbing to some chick who has a desire to urinate standing up! I will use their spring relocation stuff though. I had planned on moving the springs in 3/4" per side by stuffing the spring hangers up against the frame rails. This is supposed to give you enough room for 315's. I'm figuring that if I move the springs inline, I can run at least a 335-345 profile. We shall see. You renew my quest to do it my dam self.
 
We moved the hangers against the frame on my sons 62 Savoy. Cut a hole through the frame with a hole saw to access the front spring eye bolt. You will have to weld the hanger to the rail. The outer bolts can be used but there is no access to the inner hanger bolts due to the spring mount gusset at the front of the attachment. We converted the rear shackles to sliders from Speedway by welding a plate on the frame rail. This allowed the use 275 M/T drag radials on a 10" rim with the stock tubs. By moving the spring all the way into the rail you will gain the amount obtained by moving the inner wheel house.
Doug
 
Makes me rethink buying the US Cartool stuff. I have the machines needed to make my own fillers. Have pan/box brake, bead roller, english wheel, welders etc. Was going to be lazy and use someone else's stuff. The only issue that will take a little thinking is re doing the trunk hinge bracket attachments. Should be able to pull it off. If not, its time to donate my plumbing to some chick who has a desire to urinate standing up! I will use their spring relocation stuff though. I had planned on moving the springs in 3/4" per side by stuffing the spring hangers up against the frame rails. This is supposed to give you enough room for 315's. I'm figuring that if I move the springs inline, I can run at least a 335-345 profile. We shall see. You renew my quest to do it my dam self.

On my 64 Polara 500 I built front spring hangers that went up tight against the frame rails. They bolted to the original holes and then angled over up against the frame rail. I drilled a hole through the frame rail and the front eyelet bolt went through the frame too. The nut was able to go up through the hole in the bottom of the frame railand I welded an arm on the nut so it would jam so that the bolt would tighten. I used offset shackles at the back. Worked great, looked good.image.jpg
 
On my 64 Polara 500 I built front spring hangers that went up tight against the frame rails. They bolted to the original holes and then angled over up against the frame rail. I drilled a hole through the frame rail and the front eyelet bolt went through the frame too. The nut was able to go up through the hole in the bottom of the frame railand I welded an arm on the nut so it would jam so that the bolt would tighten. I used offset shackles at the back. Worked great, looked good.View attachment 295899

Sweet car. The dude abides.
 
diff c.jpgdiff a.jpgdiff 5.jpgbig tires.jpgI have this narrowed 8 3/4 rear end for sale. 4.10 Detroit Locker with Strange Axles complete with 3" studs. Will drop right into a 66-67 B Body with inboard spring kit and mini-tub. 15x10's and section width of 13.5" tire will fit easily. Complete rear end for $995.00. I also have a set of genuine Mopar Super Stock Springs for that same setup for $150.00
 
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