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Are Cone-style Suregrips Really That Bad?

67Satty

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I know you can't rebuild them in the conventional sense. But how does their strength and actual traction capability compare to a clutch-type suregrip?

There is a 489 case, 3.91, cone-type suregrip available locally for $300. If I gamble and it works, it could save me $700 or so over getting a rehabbed center section.

This will be for a (hopefully) high 12 second street/strip car. Thanks!
 
The main difference between the cone type and the clutch type sure grip is the clutch type has a 4 pinion carrier, which in theory should be capable of handling more load than the 2 pinion cone unit. I haven't heard of anyone breaking either. My 68 RR has the original 4 pinion 3.55 and I tortured it with a Max Wedge and a 4 speed at one point. One guy I knew had a 340 Dart with a 4 spd and I tortured that as well. And another case was an old buddy with a 67 383 S Barracuda with a 741 case 3.91 (don't remember the carrier) and the unrebuilt 160,000 mile TF with a manual valve body. That thing was running low 12's / high 11's on the bottle at 117-120 MPH with 8" slicks and he was hitting the button right out of the hole. Never an issue. If you run an auto trans those tend to be nicer to the drive train, so I wouldn't worry about it.
 
I agree, I have used the cone type before with no issues other than being worn out and not locking real well. You can actually test to see how good they grip. I believe mopar action had a great article a few years back about this subject and they even outlined how to machine the cones to make it a good unit again. The way that I test them is to hold one wheel still and apply torque to the other and see how much torque it takes to overpower the unit. Common sense is the key to not launching the car while doing this. If the unit is out of the car you can put 2 axles in it and do the same on the ground. This is the way I prefer. Good luck and these sure grips work well with your power level.
 
The 2 spider Posi units where offered to save money, if you compared them to what is available today from the Chinese crap companies they are considerable better. The problem is finding a center section that does not have stress cracks or was taken from a rear cleaned and media blasted and sold as "good Condition". Just imagine if you where driving that car with that center section under load for more than 20 years. What shape would you be in. The tru trac 4 spider units where made by Dana and Eaton Corporations. They do not exist today like they did then. All product is being produced off shore with poor labor, and inconsistent quality control. You are not going to save any money. If the center section is used no decent honest axel shop wants to touch it.
 
IMO it is fine. I "rebuilt" one a year ago that was shot. Milled them and put spacers behind them. It took about 120 ft lbs to get it to slip, and would leave 2 even black patches when I dumped the clutch. I broke the ring and pinion after about 1000 miles. Setting it up again with 4.10s.

A buddy has had the same 489 carrier and cone style sure grip in his 69 GTS since it was new, raced it for years, still working, still 2 even black patches when he roasts them.
 
Lol, They are tough enough to break these.....................

Broke513.jpg
 
IMO it is fine. I "rebuilt" one a year ago that was shot. Milled them and put spacers behind them. It took about 120 ft lbs to get it to slip, and would leave 2 even black patches when I dumped the clutch. I broke the ring and pinion after about 1000 miles. Setting it up again with 4.10s.

A buddy has had the same 489 carrier and cone style sure grip in his 69 GTS since it was new, raced it for years, still working, still 2 even black patches when he roasts them.

My axle guy says that anything that holds 100 ft/lbs or better is a winner.
Score !
 
I ran a cone type sure grip in my car for years - never had an issue.
 
Beware of the factory cone type. I would take one apart before I bought it. More than half of them I've taken apart were worn out. Some can be saved with creative machining,(no parts available) some can't. The clutch type can be rebuilt.
Doug
 
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