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This sanding is killing me

Dibbons

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Trying to remove the rust I found on the ceiling after removing the headliner (72 Satellite Sebring Plus). Used 80 grit for a couple of hours the first two days, which made a loud scraping sound but never got down to bare metal. Switched to 60 grit which was even louder and got down to bare metal in a small spot I concentrated on for a long time. Now I'm beat. At the same time, used some type of orange stringy/spaghetti/nylon type product on my portable drill, which seemed to polish the rust surface more that knock it off. Trying to be careful so I don't damage/affect the newly painted vehicle by heat or too by applying too much pressure.

Now i am willing to try anything that will not heat up the metal and damage the fresh paint. Anyone tried those open mesh silicon carbide discs or the poly carbide ones? I guess I would need to find the portable angle grinder for those. Wish I could use my Dremel tool, but this is turning out to be a BIG job. Don't know how I will get all the nooks and crannies clean either. What a mess. The foto does not show the rust I found after removing the insulation. Should of done this first, before completing all the exterior bodywork and paint.
 

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What is the goal with removing the rust, just to prevent it from continuing to progress? If so, I would just knock down the bigger stuff and paint the entire "ceiling" with Rust Bullet (or a similar POR15 product). I am biased towards the Rust Bullet product as I have used it dozens of times and it has been flawless each time with no re-rust ever. The stuff dries to to hard as iron!
 
I want to make an extremely smooth surface to attach the new insulation, don't want it falling off in the future. I guess I'm just in the mood to see the transformation from a neglected mess to a clean, shiny metal.
 
If that is the goal the Rust Bullet should work really well for you. It has excellent self leveling properties. And as I said before it is super tough stuff. One project I used it for was to paint the inside of an old cement double laundry tub that I use for cleaning car parts in. It held up for 10 years and was still none the worse for wear. Unfortunately I moved and had to leave it behind.
 
X2 on using rust encapsulator like Rust Bullet or POR15. This will seal the rust and provide a good surface before attaching the headliner. Just follow the directions.
 
Yup,, used por15 lots and seems to work very well! Rust bullet sounds like good stuff to but have never used it so cant really say....
 
Very stupid question. But are you sure it's rust. With all of that sanding it should be gone. I wonder if it's glue you're trying to sand off. It's almost impossible to sand that junk off.
 
That's a good question re: the glue. It sure behaves like glue. However, the water is obviously red/rust colored and the stuff that remains is in pitted areas of the metal. I believe glue would be over and above the metal surface itself. Making better progress today with one of those sponge looking porous paint/rust discs on the drill.
 
To help cut down heat transfer through your roof to the new paint , wet a old bath towel and lay on the roof in the area your working on.
 
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