• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

67 coronet 4 door suspension bottoming out

jcskokos

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:32 PM
Joined
Jul 12, 2012
Messages
92
Reaction score
12
Location
626, California
I am having a problem with the rear suspension bottoming out really easy going over speed bumps or even mild intersections. Car has new shocks all around and I feel the ride height is just too low from sagging springs. I have had a couple suggestions of what to do but those who gave the suggestions completely shut down the other ideas for various reasons.
1:shackle up the springs
2:reposition the springs from under the axle to over.
3:have springs rearched
4:brand new springs
5:add a leaf

To give an idea, if someone sits in the back seat, 1 200lb person, the body drops about 3 inches and rests on the rubber bumper on the pumpkin.
 
Is this a /6 car? 3" drop for 200 lbs is a lot. #4 is the best but #5 isn't bad either and is usually cheaper especially if you do it yourself. #2?? Who the hell told you to do that one!!?
 
new springs...arch or add a leaf will not last...if at all....

- - - Updated - - -

Is this a /6 car? 3" drop for 200 lbs is a lot. #4 is the best but #5 isn't bad either and is usually cheaper especially if you do it yourself. #2?? Who the hell told you to do that one!!?

#2 suggestion was a chevy guy.......or monster truck builder
 
I'm not sure what you mean by a /6 car.

And yes, #2 was suggested by a Chevy guy who did it on his s10.
Same guy also suggested coil overs but I just had a bad feeling since the upper shock mount looks a bit thin for that.

Seems like the consensus is with new springs (I'll probably load them with poly bushings). Any suggestions on where to get them from and which kind to look for? Last time I checked summit, there had to be around 20 different items available
 
The slant 6 and small block optioned cars had really wimpy rear springs. I'd put a call into ESPO and see what they can offer.
 
I'm not sure what you mean by a /6 car.

And yes, #2 was suggested by a Chevy guy who did it on his s10.
Same guy also suggested coil overs but I just had a bad feeling since the upper shock mount looks a bit thin for that.

Seems like the consensus is with new springs (I'll probably load them with poly bushings). Any suggestions on where to get them from and which kind to look for? Last time I checked summit, there had to be around 20 different items available
Chrysler's 6 cylinder engine is 'slanted' over. It's also called the leaning tower of power lol.. Anyways, flipping the springs on a truck is a lot different than doing it on a car. Don't do it on the car please. If the rear of the car sags 3" with a 200 lb person, you need better springs and ESPO isn't a bad place to get them from.
 
That makes sense, I have only ever heard the term i-6.
My car has the 383 currently, but the numbers on the plate under the hood indicate it came with a 318. I sent an email to them requesting prices.
 
they have really great pricing compared to other places ive looked.
a couple more questions before I pull the trigger:
-what else should I get to do the swap? I have read its a good idea to do the u-bolts, but should I add anything else to the list so it all arrives around the same time and I don't have a large paperweight in the driveway waiting for more parts.
-how hard is it to do the leaf replacement? is it a one person job, can it be done in the driveway or do I have to bring it into work to put it on a lift?
- anything I should keep an eye out for? will things go *ping* across the yard, never to be seen again?
 
California cars with less rust problems will make the job easier. Soak the U bolts and nuts with WD40. Change one side at a time. New U bolts are a good idea if the existing ones are frozen solid or otherwise damaged. Block the front wheels and use jackstands under the rear frame rails, TALL enough to allow the axle to fully hang. Leave a floor jack under the differential to support the axle during spring removal. Unbolt shocks first, then the 4 U bolt nuts and then big bracket.
Remove the rear hardware next. Shackle bolts use 9/16" nuts. Let the spring rest on the floor, then unbolt the hanger at the front. Again, 9/16" nuts, 4 of them. Pull the hanger and spring out together. Transfer the hanger to the new spring and install everything in the reverse order of the removal.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top