75 dodge charger runs great but emissions in CO hate me....

So i have a 1975 dodge charger ive had for a couple years now... done so much therws no point in listing it all again as i have posts about it here.
Anyway last year i passed emissions flying colors. All new equipment and was able to get away with torker 1 single plane and 600cfm carb un tuned from base lean mode. My limits were only 2 points in co emissions and was at 1.3. Co
well had to redo it this year since cant afford collector plates and guess what Colorado changed requirements to yearly testing on ALL cars! Even as collectors its required just everly 5 years.... this sucks...
well not being worried since i redid exhaust, cats, mufflers etc and recently a new fuel pump so fuel pressurw is higher and is MUCH faster i didnt pass! And im still on 40 year old cam!
well tried many things and after 4 failed tries im stumped as im always under 1.5 points away from passing co limits. Its unburnt fuel but besides new fuel pump nothing was changed but improvements.. the shittier it runs the closer i am to passing.
first run at 5btdc inital timing and running lean on a/f mixture got 2.3 on limits! Soooo close!
figured timing was off from loose hold down so did timing at its perfect 10btdc sincw motor LOVES it and got 3.38 so wtf i basically have to fake out emissions by making it run like ****! Thats terrible and just constitutes why i feel emissions is a joke! I see cars running terrible pass because people arent addressing fuel issiues but the computers will address these making a car pass that shouldnt. On newer cars it may be less an issue since a code is set off by anything but obd2 cant diagnose **** but compensate things and make a problem worse. IE. My 2001 mirage misfire codes and wanted 380 for new coils and wires.... i adjusted a wrong idle screw.... it went away.... how stupid is that computer huh?
Well back on topic i think im going to try more of a retarded initial timing and run it so lean with a tad higher idle... anyone else done this? Does it work? Thought of an hei system but dont want to waste cash on non mopar equipment that wont help my co readings to pass... after all these guys really are driving me nuts since they should be bitching about my egr delete instead but only ones spotted it and since im a 75 model they werent required by law to all have egrs till 76.... lucky me... only fought this with one "smart manager" who caught that and brought out his 500 page book to verify haha

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Fyi i was in a rush so my grammar and punctuation are terible on this tablet so no crusifying me ill post pics and details more tonight if i gets some feedback

This is how they are trying to get the older cars off the road. It does suck!

Here in Pa., a lot of the car clubs have been lobbying to change laws that have an effect on the Classic car and they have had some success. You can register your car at least three different ways. The one classic registration, you only have to have it inspected once, when you first tag it. (new law) Each type of registration comes with different restrictions. You can register it as a regular type vehicle and would have to have the yearly inspections. Or register it as one of the others but with different requirements.

Now on my 2005 Dodge Ram, my check engine light likes to come on at random. I've received waivers in the past as long as I don't drive it over 5,000 miles. Last inspection they didn't even do the mechanical inspection because I hadn't driven it 5,000 miles. So I don't know if there is a mileage requirement that you could use to get you thru?

I've found in the past that the DMV isn't going to tell you about some of these "rules" that you could take advantage of. My local tag and title has been very informative about these things.

Now as far as tuning your engine to get it to pass. Are they useing a treadmill or just a tailpipe test? Makes a big difference...

If it wasn't law and you couldn't get fined/jail time for it, I would just flip em the bird and move on. At least here in Indiana we don't have any of that bull going on. I figure the day they try to tell me to stop driving an old car, that'll be the day some government worker has a VERY bad day. Anyways back on topic, maybe try leaning it out at idle? And check for vacuum leaks as that will wreak havoc on emissions. I've also heard changing the oil will help if its been a while. I also wonder if putting a dinky little carb on would help you out some?
If you can make it run like complete **** and pass emissions for 10 minutes, I'd say go for it. After you pull out of the testing center you can always tune her back up, kind of a pain, but if you get to drive the car, well worth it!

This is a very interesting thread. I have thought about this often. My plan:
1. Retard ignition as much as possible
2. Disconnect and plug vacuum advance
3. Use TQ carb with 1-3/8” primaries and keep secondaries (sp) from opening
4. Lean carb as much as possible
5. Install 195* thermostat
6. Thoroughly warm up engine before test
My logic is less power, less fuel, less emissions. The hotter T-stat should help emissions (it’s the main reason new cars run so hot). I’ve never tried any of this, but I went through this epa bs in IL. I figure it will come to WI sooner or later, so I’ve thought about a plan to pass it.
Does anyone know if higher octane or lower octane makes a difference here? Are there any additives that may help?

IIRC book timing spec is 0 deg.

back in the day when MI had the test I would loosen my header bolts and pass.

I agree with you about it having to run poor to pass. Stone stock 80 Aspen slant six, after six tries adjusted the carb and timing in the parking lot to get it to pass.Hardly able to drive it to the station 60 feet away. It passed, adjusted everything back to make it run smooth as silk.Go figure.

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Sorry ive been so busy with work to go back and test or update. Will be trying probably saturday if i get 3 hours free. Want to adjust carb first. I think my intake isnt sealed as good as before either. Slight leak near corner where intake meets head by the dipstick. I have a torker 340 intake that didnt match up fluch to my heads dues to the angle of a 340 (runners are bigger however
Anyway i ground the angle a few degrees and it sat fluch after a few hours of filling.... it was ghetto but back then knew so much less. So im sure its leaking again and i need a valley pan anyway and ive torn it apart a million times. Used to take 3 plus hours, now i can probably donit in under 1 and i have less wiring and components on top than before.
Anyone have recommendations on PROPERLY sealling this stupid valley for good? And where did you get your valley pans... i ordered a correct sb summit one but they gave me a bb one and its been too long to return it. Who has the best ones? Also what intake should i get over my current? Will a different 340 work or even be beneficial?

I always had trouble passing the AZ emissions testing in my older cars .... until ... I heard that if you run your gas down to around 1/4 tank and add 2 bottles of Heet fuel treatment your car would pass. I was skeptical but it worked. I have not failed the testing since.

Get a can of starter fluid. Spay along the intake seal. If the RPM increases, you have a leak. Also check at the base of carb.

Hmm ill try those. Just pissed i have to pass to get tags from it being changed this year... and its sitting to get a nice performance build done. Looking for high 300s to low 400s