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73 Charger hey Vacuum questions ....

N

NoJoke73

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Hey all,

So I've been trying to sort out the ruining of the engine before I invest in anything else on this restoration ...

She came with a Holley which I replaced with a NOS Edelbrock 1406 a guy gave me on the job.

At at this point I have it starting and running but it's not optimal ..

Vaccum is is only getting up to 12 .. Got no leaks ..

i haven't check fuel pressure ( don't have a gauge, getting one from a friend )

seeing that the carb is new I haven't messed with the floats yet ..

The motor was rebuilt and a mild cam was put in, as for specs.. It's a mystery and I have no way of finding out as the reputable builder closed up and moved to Cali..

What I do know..

Carb is is seated well with a new gasket ..

There is is no return line ..

No a/c or controls are hooked up to vacuum ports .,

last but not least she is very hesitant when put in gear and I can't ( don't know rather ) find a trans vaccum line, does the trans require vacuum ??

Thanks a million ...

Thinking about selling and buying a Chevy.. Gasp!!!
 
If you haven't done any tuning then start there, you can easily get that vacuum much higher simply by tuning the idle screws and getting the timing set right.
 
I've tried the ideal mix screws from all the way down to practically taking the out !!!

Vacuum won't get past 12.

Timing was set with open headers - haven't messed with that .. Will do tho.
 
Purchase a can of stater fluid. Spray along your intake manifold to head seam and base of the carb. If you engine RPM's increases, you have a vacuum leak. Good luck.
 
NoJoke73 said:
I've tried the ideal mix screws from all the way down to practically taking the out !!!

Vacuum won't get past 12.

Timing was set with open headers - haven't messed with that .. Will do tho.
Click to expand...

I'd check the timing, I'd expect it to be around 20 with vaccum advance unhooked.
 
Woooo hooooo .... I loosened the distributor and fooled around a bit ...

I got 20 ...

So she's running really well now.

Thanks guys ..

Still needs fine tuning but she has zero hesitation as of now.
 
Mopar transmissions do not use vacuum in any way for any transmission function. The transmissions receive their inputs for shift points and line pressure from the TV. (Throttle Valve, some call it kickdown linkage)
 
Kern Dog said:
Mopar transmissions do not use vacuum in any way for any transmission function. The transmissions receive their inputs for shift points and line pressure from the TV. (Throttle Valve, some call it kickdown linkage)
Click to expand...

Thanks dog ...

It's disconnected right now ... Gotta figure out how to properly secure it to the carb .. But it's not a priority, the car isn't on the road. I can move it around and at this point that's all I need ..

Hey ... Is there any type of modification to ditch the linkage and go with a cable ? Just curious.
 
NoJoke73 said:
Thanks dog ...

It's disconnected right now ... Gotta figure out how to properly secure it to the carb .. But it's not a priority, the car isn't on the road. I can move it around and at this point that's all I need ..

Hey ... Is there any type of modification to ditch the linkage and go with a cable ? Just curious.
Click to expand...

You really dont want to drive it with the trans throttle linkage unhooked. It has an effect on line pressure also and I have seen a few burn out the clutches driven with it unhooked. If you have to drive it some unhooked then tie the trans throttle pressure rod all the way back like full throttle. It will have very high shift points but it wont fry the trans right away like that. The best bet if you dont want to run kickdown linkage is to go with a full manual valve body which means you have to shift the trans yourself but they dont need kickdown (throttle) linkage. Ron
 
383man said:
You really dont want to drive it with the trans throttle linkage unhooked. It has an effect on line pressure also and I have seen a few burn out the clutches driven with it unhooked. If you have to drive it some unhooked then tie the trans throttle pressure rod all the way back like full throttle. It will have very high shift points but it wont fry the trans right away like that. The best bet if you dont want to run kickdown linkage is to go with a full manual valve body which means you have to shift the trans yourself but they dont need kickdown (throttle) linkage. Ron
Click to expand...

Even if it just backing in and out of a driveway ?

Basically no more than sixteen feet ...
 
I see that Lokar makes a kick down cable .. I think I have the 904 trans .. Would that work?? It says it's for a 727.
 
NoJoke73 said:
I see that Lokar makes a kick down cable .. I think I have the 904 trans .. Would that work?? It says it's for a 727.
Click to expand...

Glad that helped and to answer your question yes the Lokar cable works great but it's an addition to their throttle cable bracket. I'm not sure if you can run it without at least buying the throttle setup as well. I had the complete setup on my car when it was still an automatic and really liked it, sure beats all those brackets and linkage rods. If I remember correctly there was some clearance issues to the floor with the bracket that bolts to the tailshaft housing, I could go back in my thread and get some pics but it wasn't a hard fix.
 
747mopar: Good call! You saved that member a bunch of time and probably money. Experience can't be bought, but is gladly given away (and sometimes actually taken) by the good folks on this forum. Again, good call...
 
Lokar makes a cable setup. I went with one from Bouchillon performance. Theirs is based on a Dakota truck. Mine has been in my Charger since 2001 and has never failed me.

You can drive the car at low speeds with no KD linkage, there will be no damage whatsoever. These cables are great for guys running non stock carburetors where "bolt-in" linkages and brackets do not exist.
 
I am using the Bouchillon cable set up on a 360 with a 46RH. It works very well, and is easily adjusted. Like already stated the linkage just wont work with aftermarket stuff like an air gap intake and Holley carb.
 
Paul_G said:
I am using the Bouchillon cable set up on a 360 with a 46RH. It works very well, and is easily adjusted. Like already stated the linkage just wont work with aftermarket stuff like an air gap intake and Holley carb.
Click to expand...

I'd like to get an air gap intake but from what I see it wont fit 318 heads, or will it ?? The site says only 340/60 heads.

I'd go with the 340/60 heads but from what I've read on here it up in the air if it's a good mod.
 
Are you needing kick down linkage parts? I have random parts here and there I always set aside ,since I burned a tranny up because someone pulled the parts off ,so now every time I find extra s I grab them
 
Bb70charger500 said:
Are you needing kick down linkage parts? I have random parts here and there I always set aside ,since I burned a tranny up because someone pulled the parts off ,so now every time I find extra s I grab them
Click to expand...

No thanks you, brother. It's all there.
 
NoJoke73 said:
Even if it just backing in and out of a driveway ?

Basically no more than sixteen feet ...
Click to expand...


Just backing in the driveway should be fine. Just be aware if you drive it to much it will hurt the trans. Throttle pressure also goes to the pressure regulator and effects line pressure as it will cause less line pressure. Even driving slow like 10 to 15 mph can hurt it if you step on the gas because with it unhooked it will shift real fast and be in third gear by 10 mph. Around the block and easy on the gas should be fine but dont drive it alot unhooked. It will most likey slip when shifting also with it unhooked. I would just be sure you either fix or add the throttle linkage setup and Lokar is fine or run a manual valve body. My buddy did not think he would hurt his and he fried some clutches driving it to long unhooked. Good luck , Ron
 
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