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Sixpack outboard carbs not flowing fuel

G

Go mango

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Hi all,
I would appreciate any assistance from the sixpack experts. Motor is 440. Eddy heads. Bullet solid lifter [email protected]. 541 lift. I suspect that my outboard carbs are not flowing fuel when the secondaries open. Motor starts detonating when the seocondaries kick in. A/F goes to 19:1. Float levels have been verified. Ive jetted up to 91, no change. Been chasing this problem for months. Throttle bores are dry with no hint of fuel residue. Quick fuel metering plates are installed on all three carbs. Ive been running the sixpack for a couple years. Center carb is dialed in perfectly. Motor runs hard up to 4800. 13.5 A/f. No problems until the secondaries kick in. Thanks in advance
 
HEMI-ITIS said:
Has it run well in the past? Have you changed anything,even bowl gaskets????
Click to expand...

the only change was the vacume springs from purple to brown. It ran well last year. I removed the sixpack for about a year and it sat on the bench covered. When I put it back on, the center carb ran perfectly. Only prob is the secondaries.
 
Could be a little gummed up from sitting on what little gas that was left behind?
 
Hard to imagine both outboards not flowing. Sure you're not running out of gas?
 
i have a set of those quick fuel plates and i'm not entirely in love with them. if you do some a side by side comparisons with the factory plates and the way the quick fuels install you might be disappointed. also, there's a problem with the floats and quick fuel plates. the floats will hit/rub the plates and i had to do a lot of work on the plates and floats. if the floats were installed in the up position then it's possible they're not dropping to let fuel in. i've become pretty much dead set against all the 6pak gadgets. put the factory plates back in for a test. if thats successful go back to the purple springs.
 
Take them back apart paying close attention to the holes in the gaskets.If everything is in alignment,clean well with carb cleaner and test drive.Might have to go on a chassis dyno to see what's going on,,,,,,,,,,,,,
 
lewtot184 said:
i have a set of those quick fuel plates and i'm not entirely in love with them. if you do some a side by side comparisons with the factory plates and the way the quick fuels install you might be disappointed. also, there's a problem with the floats and quick fuel plates. the floats will hit/rub the plates and i had to do a lot of work on the plates and floats. if the floats were installed in the up position then it's possible they're not dropping to let fuel in. i've become pretty much dead set against all the 6pak gadgets. put the factory plates back in for a test. if thats successful go back to the purple springs.
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Lew,I have been running QF plates for three years now and no issues at all however I went with the cast plate instead of the billet.They are the same dimensions as the O.E.M. and beside jetting can be made to use adjustable idle feed restrictions,a lot of people aren't even aware that the cast plate even exists.On another note the fellow that sent me the last set of carbs for restoration said it flooded constantly since he rebuilt the carbs and would hardly run,you know what brass floats will do in the end carbs !!
 

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62MAX said:
Lew,I have been running QF plates for three years now and no issues at all however I went with the cast plate instead of the billet.They are the same dimensions as the O.E.M. and beside jetting can be made to use adjustable idle feed restrictions,a lot of people aren't even aware that the cast plate even exists.On another note the fellow that sent me the last set of carbs for restoration said it flooded constantly since he rebuilt the carbs and would hardly run,you know what brass floats will do in the end carbs !!
Click to expand...
i had to remove metal, the hard way, from the billet plates i have, plus removing the parting line on the nitrophyl floats. a lot of trail and error work. brass floats won't work at all, and i think i had trouble with the white plastics. decided not to use them because i'm not sure how much clearance between the float and plate is needed for smooth hot operation. to me they're just another gadget to re-engineer something that doesn't need to be re-engineered.
 
Gentlemen et all,

Many thanks for your recommendations and ideas. I will pull the QF plates and inspect everything and rebuild/clean both and go from there. Copy on the cast plates as well.
 
Or, you can just pull off the front carb & turn it upside down & right side up to see if you can hear the float moving up & down all the way. You can feel it move in your hand too. The other common problem could simply be gummed up needle & seats. I've had a ton of issues with those, especially after a carburetor sits. If they are stuck closed OR the floats are stuck "up"...no fuel.
 
62MAX said:
Lew,I have been running QF plates for three years now and no issues at all however I went with the cast plate instead of the billet.They are the same dimensions as the O.E.M. and beside jetting can be made to use adjustable idle feed restrictions,a lot of people aren't even aware that the cast plate even exists.On another note the fellow that sent me the last set of carbs for restoration said it flooded constantly since he rebuilt the carbs and would hardly run,you know what brass floats will do in the end carbs !!
Click to expand...

Do you have a part number for the cast plates? all I can find on the website are the billet.
 
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