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How much does all New after market wiring usually cost with the labor?

Acworld34

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1970 Plymouth Satellite 383

I burned something up. I tried to chase down what it is but can't really fix it.

I got a quote from a shop to say anywhere between $2,000 and $3,500. Depending on Original.

"There are some variables, for example like stock reproduction harnesses or after market harness? Stock gauges and sending units?
Ball park $2000 to $3500."



I told them I wanted an upgraded wiring probably from Painless or Ron Francis but I have not heard back again from them.

Is that the average price for that kinda of work?
 
seems pricey to me. I'm looking at year one harnesses which range upward of $600. I'd build my own if I could find all of the proper terminals and wire colours. Tough to find in Canada.
The work will take some time though and could be costly if you're paying to have it done. Did they break out the materials and labour cost?
Upgrades and modifications will definitely drive the cost up.
 
Complete wiring in my racecars were between 2500-3500.
 
Most on here will steer you towards an original style harness but going with Painless or Ron Francis would be a better option. Rewiring a whole car is very time consuming especially if you go with an aftermarket universal harness but one that is built for the car shouldn't be to bad. I used American Autowire and really liked the kit, the kit included all the terminals etc but mine was universal meaning a lot of added work. I only paid a couple hundred bucks for my kit?

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That still sounds pretty steep to me but I'm sure they're allowing for issues that might arise.
 
That sounds way too steep. A friend of mine who owns an auto electrical specialty shop, did my whole 69 satellite convert for under $500 about 10 years ago. I bought the factory style wiring harness and had my gauge cluster redone by auto instruments and it still came under $2000. The harness was around $400-500 and the cluster redo was about $600-700.

He would do my 69 Dart but he can't crawl around the rollcage with his bad back.
 
You could do it for less money with reproduction harnesses, a FSM and doing the work yourself.
I've just purchased the engine and forward light harness from YearOne as well as a headlight relay harness from a member on this site. All in around $500 in wiring and it'll take me an afternoon to do.
I understand the dash harness is a different animal but if you're patient and have no fear of electrical/can read schematics, you'll have very little trouble. I've had my instrument cluster out of the car a number of times so I'm actually looking forward to replacing that harness eventually. They really are simple machines when you get in there and learn about them.
 
Ok the guy shot me another email after I told him I wanted to use Ron Francis or Painless. .....

"The painless wiring harness for that car is gonna run something like $575 to $600 plus s&h depending on options. The labor should be $1850 to $2300 depending on options... Would take us a week to complete the job after parts got here.


Decisions to make ahead of time...., new gauges? One wire Alternator (recommended)? That car should have electronic ignition, but if not electronic or points ignition? Big stereo system? A/C? Fuel injection or Carb?"


This all seems very high... I'm thinking about doing it myself but scared of the time and messing things up...

I saw kits from $400 to $600 bucks... I like American Autowire but they don't make a kit specifically for our cars... If I go with an original Harness I still have power connecting to the ammeter. I noticed the old owner put in an aftermarket radio and tapped into the fuse box with a clip... I would rather just do everything over correctly.
 
Pricey to me, I'd look elsewhere or consider tackling it yourself.
 
Ok, so here is that time when you want to think about upgrades and the future....will you ever want to go with EFI? will you ever have a decent stereo, amps etc? think you get it now, get the wiring you need to be able to add these types of things in the future weather you get them or not at least you are pre wired for them.

Thinking the francis stuff provides a decent add on capabilities.

Otherwise use Year one for the stock replacement harness.

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=AC-68

http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=XP-777
 
So all of you guys are begrudging a guy $40-$50 per hr shop labor time??? That is what this quote is boiling down to minus the cost of the harness. I personally do not think this is out of line for paying someone else to do what you don't feel comfortable doing yourself. I would pay that having just gone through rewiring my car using a Haywire harness and fuse block. It is a TON of work lying upside down reaching up under the dash and having to contort into all kinds of unnatural positions to reach stuff.
The BIGGEST concern I would have with this whole question/decision is about the reliability and dependability of the shop in question!
 
If you are just dropping the car off and the shop is going to do the rest. Sounds like a bargain.. I have looked at all the Aftermarket kits, and I considering the American Autowire kit. Yes, I am going to have to wait for the B-Body kit, but the A and E body kits look awesome!!!

By the way, my 70 Charger was running on a converted 69 Charger harness, doesn't sound bad does it.. Don't try it, not for the faint of heart. She will be getting a all new harness front to rear this time around.

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Here is their A-Body kit..
http://www.americanautowire.com/view-product/1967-1975-mopar-a-body-classic-update-kit/
 
I replaced the wiring on my neighbors 68 chevy with a Painless setup. It took me 3 weeks to do. Not everyday I worked on it was a full 8 hours. Somedays were 3-4. What took the longest amount of time was routing, looming, protecting and clamping the harness down so it wasn't flopping in the breeze or have exposed wires. I had probably close to 30 hours doing the job. Figure that with shop rate charge and you have a dollar amount. OE style replacement units are easier as they are more plug and play. Aftermarket units like Francis, Painless etc take more time to do correctly. You can cut corners and time by not routing, looming, protecting etc but it looks like buttocks. If you are not willing to pay someone to do it for you, suck it up and do it yourself. Something else to consider for those with Alligator arms: do you work for free? If not, why would you expect someone to do the job for free?
 
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