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Cant get the tranny to go all the way in... 4 speed

J

jenkins71

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Hey guys, so I just pulled my a 833 4 speed to rebuilt it, and today i went to put it back in. After much wrestling, I got it up to the bellhousing on some long thread rod pieces I used a guiding studs in place of the factory bolts. Well, i slide the trans up to mate to the bell and it stops short about 2 inches. My guess is the splines aren't lined up. Do you think the clutch is out of alignment? Or maybe I just have to spin the input shaft. Any pointers here? Thanks.
 
Did you remove the clutch and reinstall without aligning it? If aligned, put it in gear and turn the output shaft. What shape was the pilot bearing in?
 
The pilot bearing was fine, I just pulled the tranny out to fix a couple leaks and to send my 2nd speed gear out of be machine so it doesnt pop out of gear anymore.
The engine has about 4000 miles on it since I built it. It's all pretty new underneath.
I didn't touch the clutch. I DID however unhook the fork from the linkage so I could wiggle stuff around. I don't suppose I could've caused the clutch disk to drop a bit while I was doing that did I?
 
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I had the same issue; I had to jack the front of the engine up after removing the engine mounts. I was able to slide the 4 speed in myself with the support of a small floor jack.
 
Try clicking the trans into 4 gear and turning the tail shaft a bit. This is where a spare yoke can come in pretty handy.
 
With those threaded guide studs in place you really can't pivot the transmission to help the splines line up. Easiest thing to do is put the transmission in gear and then rotate the engine slightly and try to stab it in again.
 
jenkins71 said:
Hey guys, so I just pulled my a 833 4 speed to rebuilt it, and today i went to put it back in. After much wrestling, I got it up to the bellhousing on some long thread rod pieces I used a guiding studs in place of the factory bolts. Well, i slide the trans up to mate to the bell and it stops short about 2 inches. My guess is the splines aren't lined up. Do you think the clutch is out of alignment? Or maybe I just have to spin the input shaft. Any pointers here? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Do you know what this is ??
 

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I had an engine on the floor, used the alignment tool, rotated the tail shaft in gear. It would not go in. I used a ratchet strap to pull the fork, and it went right in.
 
You should only use one long bolt to line trans to bell housing this gives you a lot more wiggle room I found more then that only hinders the alinement
 
TOMRR said:
You should only use one long bolt to line trans to bell housing this gives you a lot more wiggle room I found more then that only hinders the alinement
Click to expand...

but then i'm worried the damn thing'll fall on my head!
 
Do you know what this is ??
Attached Images Attached Images


That is your best friend when installing an 833 by yourself!
 
furyus said:
I had an engine on the floor, used the alignment tool, rotated the tail shaft in gear. It would not go in. I used a ratchet strap to pull the fork, and it went right in.
Click to expand...

Yes, but then don't you risk the clutch disk falling down a little bit??
 
jenkins71 said:
Yes, but then don't you risk the clutch disk falling down a little bit??
Click to expand...
Sounds to me like maybe the disc has already fallen down a bit and if you pull the fork back, it should free up the disc enough to wiggle the input shaft on into the pilot hole. With 2 inches left to go, the shaft is already into the disc and is hitting the edge of the pilot is what I'm thinking. Been down that road a few times. Been years since the last std trans install and if you can hold your mouth just right, sometimes it'll slip right in....but only after it fights you for a couple of hours,
 
Cranky said:
Sounds to me like maybe the disc has already fallen down a bit and if you pull the fork back, it should free up the disc enough to wiggle the input shaft on into the pilot hole. With 2 inches left to go, the shaft is already into the disc and is hitting the edge of the pilot is what I'm thinking. Been down that road a few times. Been years since the last std trans install and if you can hold your mouth just right, sometimes it'll slip right in....but only after it fights you for a couple of hours,
Click to expand...

Yes, they can fight you pretty tough. If it all looks straight (looking down the bellhousing hole AND you didn't change anything like alignment dowels on the block AND you've already had it bolted to this exact motor/crankshaft in the past AND you've turned the transmission in gear by the tail shaft (yoke)...... get it in as far as possible on two hardware store bolts (I don't like the trans to the head idea either)..... get ready to push.....hold your breath.... have a friend push down the clutch pedal AT THE SAME TIME you give it a big push. That is a last resort because the clutch disk WILL move, but I had to do that myself once.

Be sure to check all the other things first. I've had all of them 'cause me problems putting A-833's in before and pushing the clutch pedal is definitely a last resort.
 
I only had this trans out for about a month. It slid right out. I havent touched the bellhousing, or the fork except to unhook the fork--z-bar linkage.
Hopefully I just need to put the trans in gear and rotate.
MAN it was a bitch to get the trans on those studs without a tranny jack. I'd hate to have to take it off!
 
jenkins71 said:
I only had this trans out for about a month. It slid right out. I havent touched the bellhousing, or the fork except to unhook the fork--z-bar linkage.
Hopefully I just need to put the trans in gear and rotate.
MAN it was a bitch to get the trans on those studs without a tranny jack. I'd hate to have to take it off!
Click to expand...

They tend to always be easier to remove then install. Unless you've really banged the disc I doubt it's moved. For the "studs" you can make one about an inch shorter. Get one in then work on the other.
Don't forget the weight on tail end will make the front tip up even on the studs. The closer you can get the trans in line with the crank line, the easier it will be.
Also, the studs will not provide perfect alignment as the trans bolt holes do not align the trans. So the trans front may be a bit low equivalent to half the bolt hole clearance. It's the front bearing retainer that will line it all up.
I've seen folks use the driveshaft if they didn't have an extra yoke to turn the input. I have also seen one person bolt his cross member on the trans and use it to push the trans forward with his legs! And he got it in!
 
Being that you are two inches away, that should be the clutch spline. As stated, turning the tail shaft while in gear should do it.
 
A regular full size floor jack can be a life saver too....just don't get crazy with it.
 
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