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Battery relocate questions...

HT413

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Just relocated my battery to the trunk, and I have just one question (for now) - has anyone found a readily available cover for the ford solenoid? I use the trunk a lot and want to do something to protect it - other than wrap the connections in electrical tape.

Thanks! Oh and I'll post a few pix in a few.

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Dang that installation looks sharp! I've never seen a cover for a Ford starter relay on any car ever...including my old '68 with a bad ignition switch that I used to start from under the hood with a butter knife (haha). You make a really good point though.... that's a lot of un-covered hot wire there. Maybe try some big heat shrink wrap on the cables and a big glob of silicone on the smaller side-terminal wires? Or maybe you could find some type of small plastic box that the relay fits inside and cut/drill some holes to let the wires feed through?
 
Nice looking relo. I just did the same in my Coronet, still have to tie in the front end wiring. And I need to find a solution to the open solenoid too. Probably wind up fabbing a plastic box like PurpleBeeper said.

In your pics I see the red start wire, is there a charging wire coming off of the Batt + lug that I'm not seeing?
 
Curious to why you need a solenoid in the trunk?
 
Dang that installation looks sharp! I've never seen a cover for a Ford starter relay on any car ever...including my old '68 with a bad ignition switch that I used to start from under the hood with a butter knife (haha). You make a really good point though.... that's a lot of un-covered hot wire there. Maybe try some big heat shrink wrap on the cables and a big glob of silicone on the smaller side-terminal wires? Or maybe you could find some type of small plastic box that the relay fits inside and cut/drill some holes to let the wires feed through?

Thanks, yeah I've never seen a box over one either - it was just a thought because I do tend to put golf clubs, strollers, the kids bikes, etc and I'd hate to be stranded because one knocked into the relay.

I was thinking I'd have to fab something up as well. I do have a sheetmetal brake in my shop at school...

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Nice looking relo. I just did the same in my Coronet, still have to tie in the front end wiring. And I need to find a solution to the open solenoid too. Probably wind up fabbing a plastic box like PurpleBeeper said.

In your pics I see the red start wire, is there a charging wire coming off of the Batt + lug that I'm not seeing?

Yeah it's a terrible picture, there is a black #6 wire attached to the battery lug.

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Curious to why you need a solenoid in the trunk?

I prefer to have one because this way the big #1/0 starter cable is only hot while cranking. It's important because whereas you can easily put a fusible link on the alt wire in case of a short, the starter draws so much current that a fuse / fusible link would have to be so big it would be useless in case of short.
 
How about painting the terminals with Plastic-dip paint, give it a few coats so it nice and Thick ? Hey where did ya get that battery Box ?
 
Thanks, yeah I've never seen a box over one either - it was just a thought because I do tend to put golf clubs, strollers, the kids bikes, etc and I'd hate to be stranded because one knocked into the relay.

I was thinking I'd have to fab something up as well. I do have a sheetmetal brake in my shop at school...

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Yeah it's a terrible picture, there is a black #6 wire attached to the battery lug.

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I prefer to have one because this way the big #1/0 starter cable is only hot while cranking. It's important because whereas you can easily put a fusible link on the alt wire in case of a short, the starter draws so much current that a fuse / fusible link would have to be so big it would be useless in case of short.

I see, I just installed a battery disconnect in the trunk instead. My trunk is all finished with panels hiding everything except a hole to stick the key in for the disconnect, I just flip it off when I'm not driving it which kills everything except the clock. I guess your way just saves you from opening the trunk when your done.
 
I prefer to have one because this way the big #1/0 starter cable is only hot while cranking. It's important because whereas you can easily put a fusible link on the alt wire in case of a short, the starter draws so much current that a fuse / fusible link would have to be so big it would be useless in case of short.

ah, that makes a lot of sense! I was wondering why you guys were using these.
 
If the car is ever taken to the track, I think a battery disconnect may still be required.


Totally right on the disconnect. I have one and plan on putting it in, but I just can't decide where to put it. No great place on a 69 Belvedere, as the deck lid comes down so far. any ideas? For now I figured I'd get the car running and tuned up, then take my chances with the track personnel.


Consider using terminal boots over the bare connectors on the solenoid.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aaf-all76152

Those look good - I just electrical taped the terminals last night, but I might just try those... thanks. Any ideas on how to protect the entire relay from, say, a flying stroller? (lol)

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I see, I just installed a battery disconnect in the trunk instead. My trunk is all finished with panels hiding everything except a hole to stick the key in for the disconnect, I just flip it off when I'm not driving it which kills everything except the clock. I guess your way just saves you from opening the trunk when your done.

Hmm, knowing your car, I bet that setup is pretty trick. Could you post a pic or link? Yeah, I disconnect the battery and connect a battery tender after most drives; I'm more concerned with having that big ol' 1/0 (+) lead carrying unfused, full battery current capability while driving along the entire length of the car. I dunno, seems like bad things can happen?

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How about painting the terminals with Plastic-dip paint, give it a few coats so it nice and Thick ? Hey where did ya get that battery Box ?

That's a thought. I might just do that. The battery box is a Taylor unit. I bought the 1/0 welding cable, #6 alternator cable (also welding cable) as well as the #10 solenoid start wire and all connections separately, as all of the relocate kits seemed to skimp on the quality of the wire. Mine is all 100% copper strand wire and 100% copper terminal ends. No copper clad aluminum here.
 
If you saw the routing of the cable you'd probably see why I'm not to concerned. It's fastened about every 16" to the frame rails and frame connectors with rubber insulated clamps and routed threw a big gap in the headers to the starter wrapped in heat shield. I remember I'll take a pic but I like the solenoid idea too.
 
If you saw the routing of the cable you'd probably see why I'm not to concerned. It's fastened about every 16" to the frame rails and frame connectors with rubber insulated clamps and routed threw a big gap in the headers to the starter wrapped in heat shield. I remember I'll take a pic but I like the solenoid idea too.

Oh yeah, there are a lot of ways to skin this cat.
 
Just for fun, I decided to make a simple enclosure up from some scrap galvanized at my shop at school. Not sure I'm going to go with this, but tonight I'll test fit and see how I like it. 5" x 5" x 5", probably a little big, but it should protect from an impact from a shifting set of golf clubs or cooler. Truth be told, I tend to strap that stuff down anyway, but just in case...

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I wouldn't use metal for the shield. Maybe something not conductive. Plexiglass? Maybe use one of the reverse light holes in the bumper for switch?
 
I wouldn't use metal for the shield. Maybe something not conductive. Plexiglass? Maybe use one of the reverse light holes in the bumper for switch?

Good point, in trying to protect it, I may be creating a worse situation. Food for thought.
 
How about making something out of fiberglass? You could use some plasticine for getting the shape you want. A little more work but might be worth it...
 
How about making something out of fiberglass? You could use some plasticine for getting the shape you want. A little more work but might be worth it...

BINGO! Excellent idea, that's exactly what I'll do. Stay tuned.................................
 
Or just buy a can of rubberized bedliner and paint it?
 
Or just buy a can of rubberized bedliner and paint it?

That was my original plan; I do have some plastidip that I sprayed the inside of the battery box with. However, I do love the idea of making a cool 'glass cover.
 
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