'69 road runner......like I needed another!

gdrill · Mar 10, 2016

She begged me to let her go outside under her own power! How could I say no?

Mocajava · Mar 10, 2016

Check out the shackles! Reminds me of my 68 Bee in high school, had her jacked up too. Enjoy your new toy as you have a great car to start with, looking forward to more pics as you bring her back to life.

gdrill · Mar 10, 2016

LOL, ya they are up there. And the air shocks just compliment the period style. I even pulled a little piece of green shag carpet out of the back seat! This one was full on 70's! Just wait though, before too long I'll be tossing on a set of rims and tires to fully take it back. Just for looks though, they aren't drivers by any means.

- - - Updated - - -

Oh, and it has Blue bottles on it and it actually sounds great!

gdrill · Mar 11, 2016

Last night I struggled for hours trying to remove the switch panel. Reading here warned me that the pad is very fragile and can be swollen. Yup it is swollen alright. I could get the wiper side to pull out a bit but not the light switch side. I didn't get the panel out so I removed the dimmer switch the hard way. I don't think I'll be able to get it back in that way though! Those screws are way up in there. I'll try a little harder today. But after going through many electrical threads I found the dimmer is likely my problem as to why I have no dash lights. Everything else works but them.

Another thing I found while tinkering and playing was the positive contact on the amp gauge was hot. So I jammed my head onto the the clutch pedal and had a look. Both the pins were loose and movable. I loosened the nuts and tightened the jam nuts on the pins. Hopefully that was the cause. I turned the key on after this and nothing heated up. I wonder if this is the reason I read of so many causing trouble? Anyway, I'll be keeping a close eye on that one.

gdrill · Mar 11, 2016

So I learned a couple things today. First I continued to fight with the switch panel, and as hard as it is to do, if you can unscrew and remove the light and dimmer switches while mounted the plate comes out way easier! But let me tell you, unscrewing those took some Houdini and some contortionist to complete. But I won and got it all apart. Next was, as nice and clean and solid looking as everything was up in there, when I pulled then main plug one pin broke off. So I will be soldering all of them for security. Next was when I found the ammeter bolts loose yesterday, there was a reason for it. I tightened them up and all felt good. But when I removed the cluster I found out why they were loose in the first place. The inner insulation "cardboard" had crumbled and broke off. This left some space, hence the looseness. When I tightened them up I actually pulled both the positive and the negative tight against the gauge housing. I'm presuming this would cause real trouble in the future and I feel confident I have found the cause of many dash problems. So I would suggest to many Mopar owners to have a good look at this. I've heard of fires from the ammeter and couldn't really figure out why a factory designed system could fail so catastrophically. I used rubber washers from a faucet repair kit to replace both the inside and the outside for insulation. I had to grind the inner ones thinner as they were too thick. I figure this will be a better and longer lasting barrier than the original cardboard. Then I found why the washer pump didn't work, someone had pulled a pin right off the switch....fixed. On top of everything else I was able to clean up and save the dimmer control. The spring was completely, and I mean completely, full of that green corrosion stuff. It took quite a while, but I got it! Thank God, I didn't like the prices I was finding on the internet for those. Anyway, it's time to clean and paint the components. It's been a good day.
:glasses10:

eoo · Mar 12, 2016

That's a nice project. Did you sell the coronet?

gdrill · Mar 12, 2016

Thanx eoo. No I still have the Coronet. Got stuck on deciding on a color. So it sits.........

I figured today was the day to learn how to solder. After reading a few threads about the circuit boards I decided to solder all the pins and the connection for the voltage thing. I had to install one pin that broke off and a friend suggested putting a wire into it from behind the board to hold it in place. That worked very well. He also said to place the gun on top of the pin and let it heat down. Another good tip. So it's all repaired and ready to start assembly, after I paint the needles.

gdrill · Mar 12, 2016

Ok, it's time for assembly. I sanded the letters to steel rather than use white paint, which I think they were. But my shaky hands just couldn't do a good enough job on that. And all I had was a "chromish" paint for the bezel.

Anyway I think everything should work now. I hope the dimmer was the problem with the dash lights. From what I read it is. The hazards didn't work either but I'm hoping they will now.

dirtypamopar · Mar 12, 2016

I love it. Good luck and keep us posted with pictures!!

gdrill · Mar 12, 2016

Thank you dirtypamopar. I'm glad somebody else is enjoying it too. I'm having a blast, mostly because I am getting lucky with everything I work on!
I tested the cluster before installing the switch panel just to be sure. Everything works now, reverse light on the lower dash, lighter, wipers, washer pump, interior, signals, hazards, everything electrical. The only thing I did away from stock was I put a jumper wire between the power and the instrument lights so they are on full with no adjustment. This was something I came across while researching the dimmer. Member 440+6 mentioned he had done this and I thought it was a good idea, vs buying a new one. My dimmer worked but it was sporadic and I figured I would rather just have them on bright anyway. I should have taken a pic of that but I forgot. Basically I cut a small length of wire about 1" long and soldered it between the center (power) and "I" posts. It is fully removable should I ever decide to have the switch restored. The dash is painted and now all I need is a new top pad and she's good to go.
The last two pics are to show the "3" screws on the lower pad you cant access until the switch panel is out. I was reading and someone mentioned there's a screw you need to get and another had said the pad and panel could be removed together.Well if you tear 3 screws apart they can, but otherwise it's one at a time.

And just because............

gdrill · Mar 14, 2016

You know how you do some things knowing it really isn't that important but you do them anyways? Well I couldn't stand the orange diff in my car any longer. So I took the time to scrape it. The orange came off quite easily. While doing it I uncovered the factory marking and found an L.A. build sheet! Or at least the remnants of one. I found one sandwiched it a k-member bolt once but this is a new spot for me. I have also heard there may be factory stamped numbers on the diff somewhere, but I couldn't find any.

KENTON · Mar 14, 2016

Nice work. I also heard you were a wizard when it comes to getting cars back and forth across the border.

desotoman · Mar 14, 2016

Ralley green cars are awesome ,here"s a pic of the one I'am restoring !!! console auto car

gdrill · Mar 15, 2016

Thanx guys. I don't know about the wizard part, but I have the system figured out now! You're right desotoman, I love this color now. I wasn't sure at first but it has really grown on me. A guy showed me a pic of his all finished up and it is awesome.

Well, out with the old, and in with the, well, just as old I guess, but better. I went for a drive today and got a post driver door glass for $50 with the rear track as mine was different for some reason. It is out of a '68 door and as far as I can see there is a difference as it doesn't have the plastic stop tab at the back. Seems to work just fine though. The guy was quite reasonable on pricing. I also picked up a few more tidbits from him. The wheel is '68 Charger but it makes the beep beep work! Turns out he has a '68 post 383, 4spd. His is done and it looks good!

New stuff

Old stuff

gdrill · Mar 15, 2016

And this evening's project.....air breather base. I got a top at a swap meet a while back but it didn't have a base plate. I bought a not so cheap, cheap one and cut it down to fit. It is installed along with the black breather cap I picked up today. The engine bay is getting more complete. I am trying to get all the tidbits gathered up so the final job will be easier. Once I get the trunk pan and install it, I plan on getting her inspected, insured and registered. That means it will be a driving project. At least that's my goal.

barbee6043 · Mar 16, 2016

I admit I have ventured over to A bodies few years back, really miss the 68-9 runners I have had, but did pick up 67 Bel 1 project . I had a 69 1/2 m code runner years back I restored n that color green. really pretty with NEW paint! I enjoy reading of your fun, makes me want to hunt for another runner project !!!!

lets face it, the 68-9 runner was the ultimate musclecar!!!!

gdrill · Mar 16, 2016

Thank you barbee, yes I am having a lot of fun. I really think for me bringing them back to life is more enjoyable than driving them. I love the feeling of success when a task is completed. I like driving too, but it's just driving! I was just having that conversation yesterday with the fellow I got those parts from about the '68-'69' road runners. You are right, they are the quintessential muscle car, even though we agreed the '68 Charger is the most coveted muscle car it seems.

gdrill · Mar 16, 2016

Trying a video

Trying to go through photobucket...........

This is how she sounds through blue bottles and dumping before the diff. Kinda like a tractor! I have a full exhaust that I will be installing later on.

http://vid996.photobucket.com/album...ous/1969 road runner/IMG_3373_zpsziu6s0ws.mp4

gdrill · Mar 19, 2016

Sometime in the past the throttle cable attachment to the carb was modified. It appears that Ma made the cable and clip in one motion so putting one of another cable was out of the question. But I fabricated my own and it works just fine. I had to cut a slot down one side to allow the cable to slide in. Once I closed it up it made it so there is no possibility of it coming out.

barbee6043 · Mar 19, 2016

yep I've rebuilt 68-70 Chargers, like an E body, sexy style!!!!!! love the look, the interior, hate air on a real car! BUT the rear sheetmetal was all spotwelded together, ALL 5 layers. a pain to do, to me.
ya gotta love the simplicity of the roadrunner/superbee..... give me manual steering/brakes, NO air, leave off the radio if ya want! ya goota love it!!!!!
the sense of accomplishment ya get when you fix something is hard to beat! driving is good too thought!!!!

'69 road runner......like I needed another!

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