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Top coating evercoat slick sand primer surfacer

RT K_line

RT K_line

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I just received my paint and what I thought was a sealer. But I've been reading that I will still need some sort of sealer over the slick sand product. I bought it because it said it could be top coated with any top coat system, single or two stage. Has anyone top coated anything over this stuff. The other thing I liked was there was no top coat window after final sanding and since I'm doing the paint work as time and weather permits I thought it would work for me. So to all you painters out there the main thing is can I top coat over this Polyester surface. Thanks in advanced for your help, I'm close to the finish line.
 
Myself I like the Deltron / PPG products, DP 40 or 50 is a very good epoxy sealer, Deltron 3055 is also a good sealer and sprays on nice and smooth, the DP activator is 402 the 3055 is 3030.
I use 870 reducer on the 3055.
the SPI line I have heard good about also but haven't used it.

But yes, for a nice job you will want to seal it.
 
I use PPG Deltron BASE COAT over SPI Primers then use SPI High Solids Universal Clear over that. They work very nice together!

The SPI Tech line is a life saver when your not really sure of what your doing. Great for novice painters looking for professional results.
 
Thanks for all the responses and tips. I think I'm going to skip the slick sand and just seal it with epoxy. I've been using a laquer sanding primer and since the body is straight I don't think I'll use the Slick Sand. From what I'm finding it is for panels that need a lot of straightening or are wavy and mine isn't. I'll put one more coat of the sanding primer I have and then wet sand with 600, then spray the epoxy. Should I let that set and resand before I top coat or can I Put the color on after it flashes. Thanks again for the help.
 
Call Gary at the SPI tech line 404-307-9740 tell him what your doing. He is a very helpful and nice guy. He will tell you what to use and when to use it, also what grit to sand down to between coats.
 
Im not trying to be all doom and gloom here, But you do not want to use the lacquer primer under a base clear job or for that matter even under a epoxy sealer.
Lacquer products , primer , paints, ect will move forever until they crack, they shrink and expand over and over. If its does not lift from the git go it will crack in time.
Please don't mix product lines or paint systems, To put down a good base that will last you need to use a activated primer and sealer of the same brand , follow with the base coat and clear from the same brand. Im not going to push ppg over DuPont over spi, ect everyone has their own favorites. But please don't mix products and paint systems,
Sometimes a guy can get lucky but its a lot of money in product and hrs of labor to gamble.
 
1967coronet said:
Im not trying to be all doom and gloom here, But you do not want to use the lacquer primer under a base clear job or for that matter even under a epoxy sealer.
Lacquer products , primer , paints, ect will move forever until they crack, they shrink and expand over and over. If its does not lift from the git go it will crack in time.
Please don't mix product lines or paint systems, To put down a good base that will last you need to use a activated primer and sealer of the same brand , follow with the base coat and clear from the same brand. Im not going to push ppg over DuPont over spi, ect everyone has their own favorites. But please don't mix products and paint systems,
Sometimes a guy can get lucky but its a lot of money in product and hrs of labor to gamble.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I'm going to call tomorrow to see if I can return it for the correct epoxy sealer.
 
1967coronet said:
Im not trying to be all doom and gloom here, But you do not want to use the lacquer primer under a base clear job or for that matter even under a epoxy sealer.
Lacquer products , primer , paints, ect will move forever until they crack, they shrink and expand over and over. If its does not lift from the git go it will crack in time.
Please don't mix product lines or paint systems, To put down a good base that will last you need to use a activated primer and sealer of the same brand , follow with the base coat and clear from the same brand. Im not going to push ppg over DuPont over spi, ect everyone has their own favorites. But please don't mix products and paint systems,
Sometimes a guy can get lucky but its a lot of money in product and hrs of labor to gamble.
Click to expand...

SPI Does not make BASE COATS accept for a few generic colors like red, white, and, black. They Only make Primers and clears so how would you not mix paint systems in this situation....Also I may be mistaken but were in this conversation was lacquer primer ever mentioned.
 
Sorry 2quick for leaving that out in the beginning, It was only after I saw in different reviews that I realized it was the wrong type of primer for my application. My last 2 paint jobs I did were 15 and 25 years ago and paint systems are very different now. I used a lacquer primer, sealer then acrylic enamal and both lasted years. I'm using Kirker brand single stage urethane this time.
 
2quick said:
Mistaken.
Click to expand...
??? Not sure what you mean.
Sure taking on a project that I have minimal experience in is risky but that's the fun of this hobby. I rebuilt my first torqflite as a teen in the 70s with a magazine to guide me. I probably wouldn't be in this hobby now if I didn't take the first step. Bear with me, I appreciate all input, instruction or criticism. Thanks for your time.
 
I meant I was Mistaken, Not you.

But anyway that's exactly why I am recommending SPI Products as not only very good products, but for the expert advice available through the Tech line almost 7 days a week to help you learn what to do the proper way. DUPONT, PPG, SICKENS, etc. just don't offer a do it yourself-er that kind of help. It's a smaller company mostly dedicated to classic restoration market and backyard builders like myself. I went into my rebuild with out knowing anything about paint and body but with the help of guys on this forum and especially Gary at SPI I would consider myself a pretty capable body and paint guy. It takes time, patients, and even some ****-ups, but ask the right questions and it will eventually come together.
 
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2quick said:
SPI Does not make BASE COATS accept for a few generic colors like red, white, and, black. They Only make Primers and clears so how would you not mix paint systems in this situation....Also I may be mistaken but were in this conversation was lacquer primer ever mentioned.
Click to expand...

Post #7 was the lacquer, as in primer.......... , Ive never used SPI at home or our shop so really all I can speak about is PPG/ Detron or Dupont, we used chroma base years ago then switched to all PPG.
I have heard others make good comments on the SPI products that's all I was referring to.
If they do not make color tints and base, well then I would not use them.
That's just me. I tend to get tunnel vision when I know what works and what don't.
Ive seen mix and match products & systems go bad more than once on a paint job and was only trying to help out. Its a sick feeling to lay a coat of sealer or paint on only to watch it lift behind you ,lots of hrs down the drain.
 
Last edited:
1967coronet said:
Post #7 was the lacquer, as in primer.......... , Ive never used SPI at home or our shop so really all I can speak about is PPG/ Detron or Dupont, we used chroma base years ago then switched to all PPG.
I have heard others make good comments on the SPI products that's all I was referring to.
If they do not make color tints and base, well then I would not use them.
That's just me. I tend to get tunnel vision when I know what works and what don't.
Ive seen mix and match products & systems go bad more than once on a paint job and was only trying to help out. Its a sick feeling to lay a coat of sealer or paint on only to watch it lift behind you ,lots of hrs down the drain, Nothing wrong with some old school lacquer paint jobs as long as you stick with it through out, They buff up beautiful. But also know that a few years down the road it will shrink /crack. Its just the nature of the beast any 80 / 180 / 220 / sand scratchs that get missed will shrink out and show up within a year.
I will just sit back and read and I wish the best of luck to RT _k line, I hope it turns out great.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input, I rely on the experts here for advise on the things I'm not so sure about. Check out my thread ( My R/T project ) in the projects and restoration's section if you like.
 
So not many responses about using slick sand by everco. I actually did shoot some today but only over the areas that I needed to and not the whole side. It actually shot smoother than I thought. I may just end up shooting the whole thing with it after block sanding the spots I need to straighten out. If anyone has used Evercoat slick sand polyester primer and put paint directly on it I would like to know. It would really help, thanks FBBO
 
I used it without a sealer on several engine compartments. Slick Sand is excellent. It's sort of spray bondo. Even smells like it. Just make sure you don't leave residue in the gun, and put the partially used can in a ziplock bag, or you will be throwing it away . You have been warned.
 
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