1968 727 Torqueflite Transmission fluid
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Hemi Rebel
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Well, a lot of guys like to run type f. +4 would be the latest supersession of the factory fill.
Badvert65
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I have been running type F since the mid 80's. Race built 727, reverse manual valve body, 3000 stall, racing clutches, etc. Type F is just what we used back then. I can tell you that your trans won't blow up because of what type fluid you use. Personally, I don't think it really makes that much difference.
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That guy with the 1958 Torqueflite came to the same conclusion. 
68 HEMI GTS
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TCI max shift works real well.
I used to run type F but it's tough to find. My 64 runs Walmart brand Dexron. It's cheap, no issues with clutch life at this time. Car runs 9.20's
Doug
Doug
64 Bevedere,72, Indy-1 by MCH, Indy crossram, 2 Eddy 750, 285/292/112 lca.799" comp roller, T&D 1.7, Jessel belt, BME rods, Weisco flat top 14.8-1, 4.10 dana, 727 push button, Ultimate 9" best [email protected]
wyrmrider
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+3 needed ONLY if you have a lock up converter
Type F has Ford spec seal sweller and friction- NOT for long term use
will shift harder but not better I recommend the big Transgo Kit and stock fluid
X Service Mgr speaking
Type F has Ford spec seal sweller and friction- NOT for long term use
will shift harder but not better I recommend the big Transgo Kit and stock fluid
X Service Mgr speaking
Furyous
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I use dexron.. No issues at all..
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In the years before computerized controlled clutch lockup and such things, I don't think it was that critical.
For example, my wife once had a 1968 Javelin. It had a Borg-Warner automatic (this was before AMC switched to Torqueflites) and didn't even have a tranny cooler line to the rad, using instead torque convertor with fins on it for cooling. One day as we were driving through a part of Vancouver that had a lot of hills, I overheated the tranny to the point where the fluid was boiling and shooting out of the dipstick. After it cooled a bit, it would slip because now it was really low on fluid. I didn't have any in the car. But fortunately the old six cylinder burned a lot of oil so I always had a gallon of bulk oil in the car. Into the transmission tube it went, and if it worked I thought I'd change it all out when I got home.
Well it worked just fine, the car shifted as it was supposed to, didn't slip, and never overheated again. I forgot about the engine oil in there and it was still running perfectly for the next year, until the car got totaled.
For example, my wife once had a 1968 Javelin. It had a Borg-Warner automatic (this was before AMC switched to Torqueflites) and didn't even have a tranny cooler line to the rad, using instead torque convertor with fins on it for cooling. One day as we were driving through a part of Vancouver that had a lot of hills, I overheated the tranny to the point where the fluid was boiling and shooting out of the dipstick. After it cooled a bit, it would slip because now it was really low on fluid. I didn't have any in the car. But fortunately the old six cylinder burned a lot of oil so I always had a gallon of bulk oil in the car. Into the transmission tube it went, and if it worked I thought I'd change it all out when I got home.
Well it worked just fine, the car shifted as it was supposed to, didn't slip, and never overheated again. I forgot about the engine oil in there and it was still running perfectly for the next year, until the car got totaled.
Longroof
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I think it was Marv Ripes from A-1 Transmissions who actually recommended putting a quart of 10w-30 in torqueflights. I have run dexron, typeF, slick shift, +3, +4, and Lucas synthetic. .... If you run a trans brake put synthetic in it. If not just use the cheapest stuff you can find and change it about every 100 runs. That worked for me in my last drag car for a whole lot of years.
GrabberOrange69
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The reason everybody started running type F back in the day was its higher temperature tolerance before breakdown. Some have reported transmission shudder when run in other transmissions, but I've never personally met someone who had trouble running type F.
Trans fluids for mid 80s and later cars had a reduced temp tolerance due to transmission lock-up features which greatly reduced transmission temperatures. Also later fluids were reformulated to flow better when cold. This is when the mainstream publications started touting type F.
Run what works best for you, but type F has proven itself in my book. However, there are better engineered trans fluids now days that flow better cold and have higher burn-off temps.
Trans fluids for mid 80s and later cars had a reduced temp tolerance due to transmission lock-up features which greatly reduced transmission temperatures. Also later fluids were reformulated to flow better when cold. This is when the mainstream publications started touting type F.
Run what works best for you, but type F has proven itself in my book. However, there are better engineered trans fluids now days that flow better cold and have higher burn-off temps.
bluesman41
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a good friend of mine Pat Blais is a long time pro at building & repairing 727 transmissions he recommends type F had him not to long ago install a trans brake when he pulled it apart after a few years of running at the track everything was still awesome from his first mods he did on it.
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I use to run Redline C+ {ATF+4}
or Torco Racing HiVis or LowVis
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/atf.html
click on it read the tech sheet specs for low or hi viscosity
http://www.torcousa.com/products-auto-pro.html
either in full synthetic in all my autos,
even when I used a 7" converter in my altered,
never had any issues with foaming or "overheating excessively",
but I also got it free from my tranny guy...
It ain't cheap, IMO well worth it too...
As long as you keep on-top of it, don't burn it/them they last for a long time,
even under severe conditions...
Now I don't get any of it for free & still use the Redline C+
I tried the Royal Purple synthetic stuff too,
but I haven't had it long enough to comment on quality yet...
I also had a cool fluid recyclers of his design too,
it would pump out hot fluid & replace it with cool fluid & reused it over & over...
I always had a "heat sink" inline on the out "pressure side" &
a really good trans cooler "with a fan" on it for the "suction side",
so it always had cool appr. type of fluid...
Also always used a deep pan for more fluid capacity too,
like the 3" B&M or 3" MP {?} cast aluminum type...
once you start making decent power running 10's or better,
especially if you do a lot of hot lapping it, than it can/will help to save
or at-least help the trans last a bit longer...
if your going to race a lot, spend the $$ on quality fluids & oils,
it's not a place to skimp, especially in a hi-$$ trans with a trans-brake
& little converter, just my opinion...
or you'll be saying
How much was that racing trans rebuild, because your too freaken' cheap ?
enjoy
or Torco Racing HiVis or LowVis
http://www.torcousa.com/torco_product/atf.html
click on it read the tech sheet specs for low or hi viscosity
http://www.torcousa.com/products-auto-pro.html
either in full synthetic in all my autos,
even when I used a 7" converter in my altered,
never had any issues with foaming or "overheating excessively",
but I also got it free from my tranny guy...
It ain't cheap, IMO well worth it too...
As long as you keep on-top of it, don't burn it/them they last for a long time,
even under severe conditions...
Now I don't get any of it for free & still use the Redline C+
I tried the Royal Purple synthetic stuff too,
but I haven't had it long enough to comment on quality yet...
I also had a cool fluid recyclers of his design too,
it would pump out hot fluid & replace it with cool fluid & reused it over & over...
I always had a "heat sink" inline on the out "pressure side" &
a really good trans cooler "with a fan" on it for the "suction side",
so it always had cool appr. type of fluid...
Also always used a deep pan for more fluid capacity too,
like the 3" B&M or 3" MP {?} cast aluminum type...
once you start making decent power running 10's or better,
especially if you do a lot of hot lapping it, than it can/will help to save
or at-least help the trans last a bit longer...
if your going to race a lot, spend the $$ on quality fluids & oils,
it's not a place to skimp, especially in a hi-$$ trans with a trans-brake
& little converter, just my opinion...
or you'll be saying
How much was that racing trans rebuild, because your too freaken' cheap ?
enjoy
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