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Adjusting new Edelbrock

ChinStokes

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So my boy bought me an Edelbrock intake and 4 barrel to replace the stock 2 barrel I have on my '68 Belvedere. I can't get this thing right. I screwed around with the linkage and cable and now have the idle good and all seems OK - but now I have too little pedal movement to get to wide open. Anyone have any experience/suggestions for anything like this?
 
Do you have the Chrysler adapter bracket Edelbrock #1481 for your throttle connection? This is required for Mopar, at least on my 68 it was. Both Chrysler & Ford applications require a separate bracket when buying new Edelbrocks carbs. They're set-up for Chebbies. I mean you wouldn't want to have a Chevy spend more money would you? LOL

Here's a link for #1081

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-1...ash=item2c91dc13ba:g:TkUAAOSwPcVVyoYS&vxp=mtr
 
I have 1481; I've had to play with the routing of the throttle cable and am wondering if that's the issue. We've had a few test drives that scared the crap out of my son - throttle getting stuck as wide open as it goes and unable to kick it down (didn't torque the cable bracket nut enough), throttle not dropping back to idle - all kinds of little things. Now it seems good but can't get it to wide open. Driving me nuts...
 
Oh okay, I thought I'd point that out just in case. Make sure you have a strong return spring and a back-up return spring. I know that's not your problem but just another safe measure. That can be down right horrifying on a teenager. I'm glad everyone is okay. Did he throw in neutral when the throttle jammed? Or if it was a stick, push the clutch in?
 
It's an automatic and he was the passenger - I was driving. Good teaching moment there if you want to play with older cars. Threw it in neutral, shut it off and coasted to a stop. No great loss - manual brakes, but I lost my power steering, which wasn't too bad. He said it was terrifying. :)

Got new springs. Everything seems to be right - I just don't seem to have enough pedal movement to get to wide open (which is why we got a 4 barrel, after all)...
 
Okay cool. Good luck searching out your problem, wish I could help. Hopefully someone will weigh in.

:thumbsup:
 
Got new springs. Everything seems to be right - I just don't seem to have enough pedal movement to get to wide open (which is why we got a 4 barrel, after all)...
Gonna assume you have the right throttle cable, with the metal tube on the housing clamping end.
Try this...take the throttle return springs off, with the throttle cable un-hooked, make sure the carb throttle arm will make the full swing.
With the metal end of the throttle cable housing in place, in the clamping bracket, the cable itself free, should be at full throttle (via the gas pedal). Okay. By hand, pull on the throttle cable to check for free movement. If it's good...
Let the cable rest where it is (again, should be full throttle). On the carb throttle arm, hold it at full throttle (WOT), and compare where the cable end is to it. On the cable housing, move it through the clamp, until the cable end is just forward of being able to fit the carb throttle arm. Don't hook-up, yet.
Let the throttle arm go back to idle. Then, by hand, pull the throttle cable forward. You want the cable end position just forward, to fit onto the throttle arm. Just adjust the housing end, in the clamp, until it all works full swing. Once in position, tighten the clamp, and hook up the springs.
 
Gonna assume you have the right throttle cable, with the metal tube on the housing clamping end.
Try this...take the throttle return springs off, with the throttle cable un-hooked, make sure the carb throttle arm will make the full swing.
With the metal end of the throttle cable housing in place, in the clamping bracket, the cable itself free, should be at full throttle (via the gas pedal). Okay. By hand, pull on the throttle cable to check for free movement. If it's good...
Let the cable rest where it is (again, should be full throttle). On the carb throttle arm, hold it at full throttle (WOT), and compare where the cable end is to it. On the cable housing, move it through the clamp, until the cable end is just forward of being able to fit the carb throttle arm. Don't hook-up, yet.
Let the throttle arm go back to idle. Then, by hand, pull the throttle cable forward. You want the cable end position just forward, to fit onto the throttle arm. Just adjust the housing end, in the clamp, until it all works full swing. Once in position, tighten the clamp, and hook up the springs.
Thanks so much. I will try this afternoon. I appreciate the feedback!
 
Got a pic?
Here are some pics. After trying what Miller suggested, it seems like with the new manifold and carb the throttle cable just doesn't fit right - I can't get the metal bit into the bracket because I can't push it back through the firewall far enough. Is it as simple as cutting off some of the sheathing of the throttle cable? Here are some pics...

IMG_0321.JPG IMG_0322.JPG IMG_0323.JPG IMG_0324.JPG IMG_0325.JPG
 
I can't get the metal bit into the bracket because I can't push it back through the firewall far enough. Is it as simple as cutting off some of the sheathing of the throttle cable?
No, no cutting on the housing. That would turn your cable into junk.
You can't push it back through the firewall, because that end of the housing is 'fastened' to the firewall. That's how it mounts in.

From your pics (those help!), appears real close, within an inch. Reach back on the housing about halfway, and 'flex' the housing into an easy curve, not bent. Should be able to move it to one side, or the other, that will put the clamping metal sleeve into place. Then, simply get the clamp loosely on.
A lot of times those throttle cables are made a little too long, for flex, and just need to force them into place.
 
Throttle arm on carb sounds too short. Longer arm will permit full gas pedal range of movement which then will match factory ratio. I did something to the arm on a Thermoquad to change the ratio.
I hogged out the hole where the rod for cable attachment is into a slot, and either moved it out or in to match the range I needed.
Forget whether I needed less travel or more travel, and it worked perfectly, so I never fooled with it again or thought about it until you reminded me.
Best of luck.
 
I had the same problem. Just building on what miller and Darthomas are saying, here is the setup that works for my car. I happened to have a second 1481 adaptor bracket, which served as a donor for the extension which was needed. Lokar throttle cable setup. WOT is now tire-shredding fun.
IMG_0904.jpg
IMG_0905.jpg
 
The determination of that exact spot was actually a complex calculation involving extensive 3-d modelling. Ummm, in reality I just got lucky!
 
Just to ask,,the throttle bracket, is it from the 2bbl set up? If so Mancini has the bracket for the 340 4bbl both stick and auto for 30 something bucks.I was in the same boat when I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl on a 273.Solved my problems.Just a thought..
 
Should be real easy to tell, once cable is in place. Just check for movement, arm vs cable end.
I just luck out??? Two 1405 Eddys, no added bracket, but all fit like a glove. Just had to 'operate', to swap sides for the fuel inlets.
 
Just to ask,,the throttle bracket, is it from the 2bbl set up? If so Mancini has the bracket for the 340 4bbl both stick and auto for 30 something bucks.I was in the same boat when I went from a 2bbl to a 4bbl on a 273.Solved my problems.Just a thought..
That's exactly my problem! 273 2 bbl to 4...thanks!
 
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