Hemirunner
Well-Known Member
I did the ammeter by pass. Have a volt gauge to put in the factory dash but haven't got it done yet.
What amp alternator should I go with?
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Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
the best alt is that one able to feed yout car load IDDLING... calculate whats the car demand on your car for load, and find the one able to feed closer as posible while iddling.
Upgrade wiring up to ammeter bypassing the bulkhead is a must, same as feed any accesory from alt post ( or a junction between amm and alt post ) and NEVER from batt if you think on keep the ammeter on line.
No need for remove ammeter, just the correct mantenience and you are done.
Upgrade wiring up to ammeter bypassing the bulkhead is a must, same as feed any accesory from alt post ( or a junction between amm and alt post ) and NEVER from batt if you think on keep the ammeter on line.
No need for remove ammeter, just the correct mantenience and you are done.
Mike that's what I had planned!
1968rick
Well-Known Member
A volt meter is not going to look right in the dash.....leave the Amp meter in and hang a volt meter under the dash
I was going to use the amp face and put the volt gauge behind it.
SwedCharger67
Well-Known Member
A volt-gauge is of very little use compared to an amp-gauge...with a volt-gauge you don't know which way the current is going...in or out of the battery...
1968rick
Well-Known Member
Well, if the current is going out of the battery the volt meter will show less than 13 volts...the more current out and the lower the gauge goes.....Ask yourself why modern vehicles have a volt meter?
The problem with our beasts is they were built for a 30 to 45 amp alternator....then we come along and put in a 50 to 110 amp alternator and expect the wiring and amp meter to carry the load...does not work....
The problem with our beasts is they were built for a 30 to 45 amp alternator....then we come along and put in a 50 to 110 amp alternator and expect the wiring and amp meter to carry the load...does not work....
Darthomas
Well-Known Member
MUST...BITE...TONGUE....
SwedCharger67
Well-Known Member
Unfortunately the volt reading is an indication only and one can only guess which way the current is going.
A voltmeter is cheap and easy to install compared to an ammeter.
Darthomas
Well-Known Member
Which is why it is less informative.
If people want to provide for greater current, all they need to do is put in a slightly lower resistance shunt in the ammeter. It will still indicate, but be calibrated for a larger current range.
The pointer will move less, but still let you see charging vs discharging.
An ammeter can tell you about the health of your alternator continuously.
Most people don't keep an eagle eye on the voltmeter to notice it's going down ever so slowly. When you have a charging problem, an ammeter shows you have a problem right away.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
Daaamn great read ammeters lovers!
I'M NOT ALONE! LOL
I'M NOT ALONE! LOL
Malicious
Well-Known Member
Sorry to high jack, but I'm looking for a new alternator now. I'm stuck on what type of alternator to get, one wire, stock style or denso.
Thinking the one wire would clean up the engine bay by removing the regulator, th stock style is a 'ain't broke' kind of approach, the denso is supposed to charge at idle which the mopar styles don't.
Summery sound about right?
Love some opinions on it... I'm a bit lost..
Thinking the one wire would clean up the engine bay by removing the regulator, th stock style is a 'ain't broke' kind of approach, the denso is supposed to charge at idle which the mopar styles don't.
Summery sound about right?
Love some opinions on it... I'm a bit lost..
Darthomas
Well-Known Member
Buy any stock type alt you please.
Note the number of turns per winding pole group. If it's under 10, you'll have weak charge at idle, well, there's some give or take on field windings.
Take your NEW alternator to a motorshop that rewinds 3 phase motors.
Explain that each leg of the "wye" is only half as long as it should be, and that there needs to be minimum of 12 loops in each pole group. This requires a smaller gauge wire and human work to fit them.
You pay extra $ to have it done the right way, and you will transcend Mopar low charge.
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