TRANSBRAKE LAUNCH TECHNIQUE ?

Mike Gaines · Jul 16, 2016

I am asking who uses one of the 2 different ways to launch off your transbrake.
1) Who all uses the MSD 2 Step box with a "low end" chip installed (let's say anywhere between 3k and 5k) and then set the transbrake and then floor the pedal and let the chip limit the RPM by dropping cylinders and then it only reaches your desired rpm with the chip you installed...then lift the button and launch.
or
2) Who does NOT use a low end chip with a MSD 2 Step box and merely sets the transbrake button and floors the pedal and have the motor run all the way up that it will go against your converter and then release the button and launch.

COMMENTS AND ANSWERS....

Canyon707 · Jul 17, 2016

#2 I don't recommend this. you have much better control using the two step. By expermienting with the two step I found the best launch rpm after trial and error. I like the MSD 8670

66Satellite47 · Jul 17, 2016

Great question Mike.

Homstead · Jul 17, 2016

I use the number one method. I found the best results by setting the lower limit to 4500 rpm. The converter is a 5000 stall and it just seemed to work best this way. If I tried the number two method the trans would slip and not hold the car.

Canyon707 · Jul 17, 2016

Homstead said:
I use the number one method. I found the best results by setting the lower limit to 4500 rpm. The converter is a 5000 stall and it just seemed to work best this way. If I tried the number two method the trans would slip and not hold the car.

http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/320569-Transbrake-not-holding-car-glide It should lock up

theman440 · Jul 17, 2016

I use the #1 method when I have the brake in the trans. I've been foot braking it for quite a few rears now.

bluesman41 · Jul 18, 2016

I use the first method still experimenting with launch rpm !

Budnicks · Jul 19, 2016

I know you already invested the $$$ into the stuff &
you want to make it work now, not be a waste of $$$...

When I did use a transbrake...
Albeit my racecars were usually faster, than mid 10's too,
usually I was running 8's or better, in most my real racecars...
Some races/org.'s wouldn't allow all the drivers aides electronics either,
especially Nostalgia racing stuff...

Anyway;
My last car for example/comparison sake here, closer to what you have
a 3500# 68 RR 479ci TF 727 9.77 @ 135 N/A & 8.56 @ 158 w-N20
more of a street strip car, not really a every weekend racecar...
I kept a log of what different tracks & track conditions, weather etc.
that the car worked best at, referred back to that as a base /starting point too...
Even daily it changes...

I always did the #2 wood it let the converter dictate my launch rpm,
tune the car, tires, shocks, carb {weather cond.} suspension/shocks to that #,
because that's what I picked it for...
On N20 it was all together different, couldn't do that the converter
would go way above the RPM rating, blow off the tires...
I knew how to work the throttle & use the tach, to fit my needs/car...
Not trying to reinvent the wheel, it works, than I go with it...
K.I.S.S keep it simple stupid, my peers always told me...LOL

Again same combo as above;
On a footbrake I'd bring it up-to about 3800-4000 &
{mainly because, car wood push the skinny tires threw the beams otherwise}
I'd just wood it when I saw yellow, it'd flash to well over 5000 &
launch just fine no stumbles...
I didn't have problems with consistency/running the #'s,
dumping people when need be...
Again on N20 a completely different animal, had to do it differently
@ different tracks & conditions too...

I'm not big on all the gadgets, electronic drivers aides,
to aid the driver much either...
Sometimes it's just more crap to get you confused, when something is wrong...
Chasing your proverbial tail, needlessly so to speak...
Throttle stops {other than mechanical}, delay boxes etc.,
ignition stuff "YES", retard or progressive timing etc. {especially with N20}
air shifter, A-typical bracket racing garb, albeit a 2 step & some electronics
{remote control devises as many called them...LOL},
BUT; many racers love them, many racers need them too, to overcome
driver short comings, not to say that's you either...
No offence meant, but some are just sheep/blind followers,
that seemingly all just do what everyone else does, keeping up with the Jone's,
mentality...
IMO instead of what works for them & their specific car/combos,
or their car/driving styles...
Not all cars are created, weigh, work &/or tuned equally...

Seems like from your posts the car was doing well, consistently already...
K.I.S.S.

good luck, I hope you took it in the way it's intended, not criticizing you...
I hope you can figure it out, have fun that's what racing is all about..

Mike Gaines · Jul 19, 2016

Budnicks said:
I know you already invested the $$$ into the stuff &
you want to make it work now, not be a waste of $$$...

When I did use a transbrake...
Albeit my racecars were usually faster, than mid 10's too,
usually I was running 8's or better, in most my real racecars...
Some races/org.'s wouldn't allow all the drivers aides electronics either,
especially Nostalgia racing stuff...

Anyway;
My last car for example/comparison sake here, closer to what you have
a 3500# 68 RR 479ci TF 727 9.77 @ 135 N/A & 8.56 @ 158 w-N20
more of a street strip car, not really a every weekend racecar...

I always did the #2 wood it let the converter dictate my launch rpm,
tune the car, tires, shocks, carb {weather cond.} suspension to that #,
because that's what I picked it for...
On N20 it was all together different, couldn't do that the converter
would go way above the RPM rating, blow off the tires...
I knew how to work the throttle & use the tach, to fit my needs/car...
Not trying to reinvent the wheel, it works, than I go with it...
K.I.S.S keep it simple stupid, my peers always told me...LOL

Again same combo as above;
On a footbrake I'd bring it up-to about 3800-4000 &
{mainly because, car wood push the skinny tires threw the beams otherwise}
I'd just wood it when I saw yellow, it'd flash to well over 5000 &
launch just fine no stumbles...
I didn't have problems with consistency/running the #'s,
dumping people when need be...
Again on N20 a completely different animal, had to do it differently
@ different tracks & conditions too...

I'm not big on all the gadgets, electronic drivers aides,
to aid the driver much either...
Sometimes it's just more crap to get you confused, when something is wrong...
Chasing your proverbial tail, needlessly so to speak...
Throttle stops {other than mechanical}, delay boxes etc.,
ignition stuff "YES", retard or progressive timing etc. {especially with N20}
air shifter, A-typical bracket racing garb, albeit a 2 step & some electronics
{remote control devises as many called them...LOL},
BUT; many racers love them, many racers need them too, to overcome
driver short comings, not to say that's you either...
No offence meant, but some are just sheep/blind followers,
that seemingly all just do what everyone else does, keeping up with the Jone's,
mentality...
IMO instead of what works for them & their specific car/combos,
or their car/driving styles...
Not all cars are created, weigh, work &/or tuned equally...

Seems like from your posts the car was doing well, consistently already...
K.I.S.S.

good luck, I hope you took it in the way it's intended, not criticizing you...
I hope you can figure it out, have fun that's what racing is all about..

Thanks.

Budnicks · Jul 19, 2016

Mike Gaines said:
Thanks.

your welcome,
I hope it doesn't just confuse you more...
good luck

RacerAL · Jul 21, 2016

I use method #1 but have done them both at one time or another. Number 1 is the more consistent of the two for my car. Since I run a 9 inch slick i need to be able to control the launch rpm for less then perfect starting line prep. I launch anywhere from 3000 to 3600 off the two step depending on starting line conditions and which slicks I have on the car.

Mike Gaines · Jul 21, 2016

RacerAL said:
I use method #1 but have done them both at one time or another. Number 1 is the more consistent of the two for my car. Since I run a 9 inch slick i need to be able to control the launch rpm for less then perfect starting line prep. I launch anywhere from 3000 to 3600 off the two step depending on starting line conditions and which slicks I have on the car.

Racer Al...so you have no stumble and get a clean launch when you release the transbrake button ? If you you have "floored" the gas pedal you have lost any of the accelerator pump action, which one report here says could be the reason my car is stumbling on launch.

RacerAL · Jul 22, 2016

That's right Mike I have no stumble when I release the trans brake. I've ran a trans brake for years with numerous different carbs and I've never experienced a stumble off the launch. I've got a 800cfm eddy carb that has been converted to e85 and I've ran it with using the trans brake and it has no stumble. I'm no where close to being a carb guru by any stretch of the imagination, but I would think the accelerator pump shot is used up the instant u mat the the gas. My eddy carb has no issue with a stumble and it doesn't have accelerator pumps at all. The Holley built specific E85 950cfm carb on my car now doesn't even have the 50cc pumps on it. I'm not doubting that ur stumble isn't fuel delivery related but IMO it's not caused from the accelerator pump shot.

66Satellite47 · Jul 22, 2016

Mike, it shouldn't stumble if you've got the carb wide open & the ignition is limiting the RPM. Of course I things do depend somewhat on what RPM you're leaving at. Good Luck. Bill

Cranky · Jul 22, 2016

My last car ran high 9's and had a TB in it but I didn't do enough racing/experimenting with the setup to make an educated comment. Had the car a year and probably didn't make more than 10 passes with it. Life just got in the way so I sold it but when I was racing in Super Street with another car that had absolutely no electronics in it, I could leave off the converter (4500) or at an idle. Leaving off the converter made the car just .01 faster but when the track wasn't biting worth a damn, leaving at an idle usually put me out on most others.....others that were not using a throttle stop that is and back then, there wasn't very many that had them.

TRANSBRAKE LAUNCH TECHNIQUE ?

Mike Gaines

Well-Known Member

Canyon707

Well-Known Member

66Satellite47

Well-Known Member

Homstead

Well-Known Member

Canyon707

Well-Known Member

theman440

Well-Known Member

bluesman41

Member

Budnicks

Jackstand racer #1 & proud of it, Sir Posts A Lot

Mike Gaines

Well-Known Member

Budnicks

Jackstand racer #1 & proud of it, Sir Posts A Lot

RacerAL

Well-Known Member

Mike Gaines

Well-Known Member

RacerAL

Well-Known Member

66Satellite47

Well-Known Member

Cranky

Banned Henchman #27

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