So it begins!

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 19, 2016

Ok, I have a plan to upgrade my 68 Satellite. I just bought a pair of weld in subframe connectors and have Mopar black OE wheels with 295/65r 15s on 15x10s with 5.5 back space on the way. May have to roll the lip or do the spring relocation... Anybody running this combo? I saw Snakeater ran this wheel Combo using 15x8s...but have seen a 70 Charger using the 15x10s.

I sold my Harley and plan to use the money to buy the following:

QA1 level 2 drag race front assembly
Moser muscle pack 60 rearend
Caltrac split mono springs and Caltrac bars

Next spring I hope to buy a 727, looking at the Cope revers manual valve body...

Then comes a long stretch... To build a 505 or 520 stroker.

440beep · Sep 19, 2016

Not sure the how different the 68 wheel wells are compared to a 69, but I'm running that wheel/tire combo on my 69 Bee with no fitment issues. Slight rubbing here and there on inner fender well depending on angle of inclines, but nothing detrimental; doesn't hit leaf spring.

I hope you're fit, because that wheel/tire combo weighs a ton!

Riverdawg · Sep 19, 2016

Wow great looking 68. It should be sweet with the upgrades. Good luck.

bobtile · Sep 19, 2016

If you have plans on changing out the kframe, you should get in touch with Carl Gerst of Gerstsuspensions.com. He can build what you want. He also has rear kits.
Its worth a phone call!

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 19, 2016

Yeah, I had similar wheel set up for my 71 Satellite and they were heavy. I will run a lighter combo if i ever get it done and race it. Thanks for the K frame tip I Will check out Gerstsuspensions, but QA1 is less than a 10 minute drive from my house. Was also considering Heartthrob exhaust when I get that far because they are local as well. Bobtile I subscribed to your Youtube channel, followed your trials with the GTX on the posts here. thanks for the input guys.

Tex013 · Sep 19, 2016

I have 15x10 on my 68 Satellite , 5.5"backspace . Stock spring location . I do have the lip rolled , had to when I ran 15x8 with 4"backspace with 275 ET radials .
I run MT pro bracket radials 28x10.5 R15 . no issues
I ran Hoosier 9x30R15 ( 29.9 tall) on 8 or 8 1/2"rim , may have been 3 7/8"BSx 8 1/2, no worries
I have tried the 295.65R15 with a narrower rim , they just touched the dogleg over speed humps . I think they would be fine with a 10"rim

Tex

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 28, 2016

Yep, up against the springs I have an easy 1 3/4 inches from the sidewall to the inner wheel opening lip... Darn wheels are on back order and won't be here til Oct 6 th??? My weld in subframe connectors arrived today. Once I can properly fit the tires and figure out ride height I can order the Caltracs and split monos. Hoping the +1 inch springs will be enough lift to clear the inner wheel housing. I know the gear ratio is defendant on engine, cam, transmission gear ratios and tire height...BUT what ratio would you go with hoping to build a 500-600 hp big block auto transmission and 30 inch tires. Strip street car. Thinking 4:30, or 4:10. My firebird formula had 3:73s with a 26 inch tire and I didn't mind the lack of highway gear.

Tex013 · Sep 28, 2016

I have 4.1 gears . I think with the current 440 it needs 4.30 to run 30" tires

Tex

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 28, 2016

Tex013 said:
I have 4.1 gears . I think with the current 440 it needs 4.30 to run 30" tires

Tex

Thanks Tex, I was leaning that way.

Mike Gaines · Sep 28, 2016

If you are going to spend the money to put in a Dana 60....do it right and mini-tub the rear and move the springs inboard at the same time you do the DANA 60. With that mod you will be able to run a 10" wide wheel and a 30" tall slick with up to 13.2 section width and 11-12 in tread width (as long as the section width doesn't exceed 13.2") Be sure and get Cal Trac 9 way Adj rear shocks or the Cal Trac bars and springs wont work as good as they should. All you have to do in addition to the mini tub is to trim the outside inner fender lip to make more room on the outside wheel well. If you are planning on building a stroker motor 505" (.030 over) or a 512" (.060 over). ..then do that right from the get go. Make it 12-1 CR with a split phase cam (so you can run pump gas on the street and 110 race gas at the drags) with about 620" lift solid lifter cam with 275 or so duration @ .050. Get a good set of Forged Roller Tip Rockers (1.6 Ratio). Make the heads MAX Wedge Ports (either Edelbrock or INDY). Do a single plane intake with a 4500 Dominator and 2" Dougs Headers and of course MSD ignition. H-Beam rods and forged pistons of course with your stroker crank ( I used Ohio Crankshaft crank and H Beam rods and SRP Pistons). Put a good sprag in your torque flite and a manual shift valve body. Use a 5000 Flash converter (use Lenny at Ultimate Converters in North Carolina)That motor will make 700HP and be streetable but still run mid 10 second range at 126-128MPH. Don't let anyone say it wont be streetable because I have a similar combo (without MAX Wedge Ports..yet) and I drive it to car shows, etc and then take it to the drags and run 10.57's at 126MPH. When I upgrade to MAX Wedge Size ports I expect 10.40's at 128MPH. Do all this and you will have a "Street Strip Car" that you can you can really be proud of.

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 28, 2016

Mike Gaines said:
If you are going to spend the money to put in a Dana 60....do it right and mini-tub the rear and move the springs inboard at the same time you do the DANA 60. With that mod you will be able to run a 10" wide wheel and a 30" tall slick with up to 13.2 section width and 11-12 in tread width (as long as the section width doesn't exceed 13.2") Be sure and get Cal Trac 9 way Adj rear shocks or the Cal Trac bars and springs wont work as good as they should. All you have to do in addition to the mini tub is to trim the outside inner fender lip to make more room on the outside wheel well. If you are planning on building a stroker motor 505" (.030 over) or a 512" (.060 over). ..then do that right from the get go. Make it 12-1 CR with a split phase cam (so you can run pump gas on the street and 110 race gas at the drags) with about 620" lift solid lifter cam with 275 or so duration @ .050. Get a good set of Forged Roller Tip Rockers (1.6 Ratio). Make the heads MAX Wedge Ports (either Edelbrock or INDY). Do a single plane intake with a 4500 Dominator and 2" Dougs Headers and of course MSD ignition. H-Beam rods and forged pistons of course with your stroker crank ( I used Ohio Crankshaft crank and H Beam rods and SRP Pistons). Put a good sprag in your torque flite and a manual shift valve body. Use a 5000 Flash converter (use Lenny at Ultimate Converters in North Carolina)That motor will make 700HP and be streetable but still run mid 10 second range at 126-128MPH. Don't let anyone say it wont be streetable because I have a similar combo (without MAX Wedge Ports..yet) and I drive it to car shows, etc and then take it to the drags and run 10.57's at 126MPH. When I upgrade to MAX Wedge Size ports I expect 10.40's at 128MPH. Do all this and you will have a "Street Strip Car" that you can you can really be proud of.

Hell yeah! That's some good advice...going to try and overbuild the drivetrain and suspension for sure. Thanks for the tip on the shocks. I looked at the US Cartool spring relocation and mini tub kits. I know Caltrac wants to know if they are relocated before you order...Figured I can add that easy enough if the engine budget gets a boost. But after the suspension I will have exhausted the 2016 Toy fund...( wife's in school and I pay myself when I can) with my Christmas money and Holiday bonus I should be able to get a good reverse manual 727.

Will definitely check with you guys when I go to build the motor! Was thinking Trick Flow, but have also thought if your gonna go/ go big hence Max Wedge. And that split phase cam is news to me. hope to buy some good aluminum heads late spring, then it will be slow going on the motor ...although the wife will be done with school in May!!!!

side note: A local guy has a 69 B body dana with 4:10 locker and snubber for way less than the Moser 60 and could speed up my build. Could just buy some superstock springs and ditch the Caltrac idea. But, I've been burned on used parts before . Says it worked fine when pulled but he didn't like the noise when it locked.

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 28, 2016

Soooo. How much would it cost to have a used Dana with a locker gone through... What should I look for? The guy wants 1600ish less than half the new Moser unit. Guys are still getting good results with the SS springs and snubber from what I understand.

I also posted this question in the driveline forum

actionange1 · Sep 29, 2016

Bigfoots N Mopars said:
Soooo. How much would it cost to have a used Dana with a locker gone through... What should I look for? The guy wants 1600ish less than half the new Moser unit. Guys are still getting good results with the SS springs and snubber from what I understand.

I also posted this question in the driveline forum

I used S/S springs back in the day. Good set up and other than coil over ladder bar the only way to go.
I attempted same when I built my 67 Belvedere in the early 2000's. Wasn't happy with the result, sold them and went with the Caltrac +1 monos, Caltrac bars and QA-1 shocks. Much better as more adjustment than a pinion snubber set up.
Started as a street strip car and morphed in a strip car ultimately running 9.88@ 134. No rear wheelhouse alterations, 9 or 10 inch x 28 inch slicks.

Bigfoots N Mopars · Sep 29, 2016

actionange1 said:
I used S/S springs back in the day. Good set up and other than coil over ladder bar the only way to go.
I attempted same when I built my 67 Belvedere in the early 2000's. Wasn't happy with the result, sold them and went with the Caltrac +1 monos, Caltrac bars and QA-1 shocks. Much better as more adjustment than a pinion snubber set up.
Started as a street strip car and morphed in a strip car ultimately running 9.88@ 134. No rear wheelhouse alterations, 9 or 10 inch x 28 inch slicks.

View attachment 363193

Yeah, will go with the Caltracs and adjustable shocks as planned.

Mike Gaines · Sep 29, 2016

Bigfoots N Mopars said:
Yeah, will go with the Caltracs and adjustable shocks as planned.

On the Rear Shocks I would still suggest the Cal Trac 9 Way Adjustable Rear Shocks. Cal Trac Tech recommends (with a foot brake car) to set them on "full stiff" setting #9.
I did exactly as Cal Trac Tech says and my car hooks pretty darn good with 1.45 60 foot times and pulling both front wheels about 4-5 inches on the launch and carrying them for about 6-7 feet so it must be working OK.
QA-1 Shock might work good also...but I just have experience with the Cal Trac 9 Way Adj RR shocks.
Good Luck on your build...DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME, IT IS CHEAPER IN THE LONG RUN.

67 coronet · Sep 29, 2016

Bigfoots N Mopars said:
Yeah, will go with the Caltracs and adjustable shocks as planned.

i was gonna say i have the ss and pin snub on my current ride and i might as well be driving on ice.if your gonna put down big power cal tracks or adjustable for sure.

Bigfoots N Mopars · Oct 8, 2016

Wheels came today! The fit is good, but looks like I will need the +1 inch lift split mono springs with the Caltracs...and shave the inner lip. Gonna order the Moser Muscle Pak 60 stock width, stock spring location!!

actionange1 · Oct 9, 2016

The inner lips will definitely have to go.
Any body lean will destroy those side walls.
Looks bad ***!

66Satellite47 · Oct 15, 2016

Beautiful car! Moving the springs gives you flexibility, a narrowed rear also makes tire removal much easier. When I ran the stock width, needed to unbolt the shocks to let the rear drop far enough to remove the tire. Dana 60 is the way to go for unmatched durability. FYI I don't use a pinion snubber, with the correct spring package, totally not needed. If you can afford the CalTracs, that's got to be the best, otherwise the SS springs are still good.

Bigfoots N Mopars · Oct 17, 2016

Thanks guys, just waiting for this to arrive...

Should be here Wednesday! Will see where the spring perches need to be before I order the rear end. These seem to have three different spring attachment points so maybe I won't need the +1 inch springs. I'll mock it up wth the current rear and see.

So it begins!

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