• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Efi

fireguyfire

fireguyfire

Member
Local time
1:51 PM
Joined
Dec 27, 2015
Messages
22
Reaction score
6
Location
Cochrane, Alberta
Been watching the prices on EFI kits for my 68 charger and they have steadily gotten cheaper over the last few years.
I am undecided about doing the EFI thing so I am looking for inputs from you gentlemen here.
I'm pretty sure I know, but what are the expected benefits of EFI over a carb, and has anyone here done it, and if so what were the true results?
 
fireguyfire said:
Been watching the prices on EFI kits for my 68 charger and they have steadily gotten cheaper over the last few years.
I am undecided about doing the EFI thing so I am looking for inputs from you gentlemen here.
I'm pretty sure I know, but what are the expected benefits of EFI over a carb, and has anyone here done it, and if so what were the true results?
Click to expand...

fireguyfire,

I have not purchased or installed efi....YET. But, I am definitely going to use it with my gen 3 hemi conversion. I had a stroked 440 and had some carb tuning issues, then I had vapor lock, and then it had a hard time starting in different seasons real cold/real hot...and then...

Anyway, carbs are a great piece of technology. I'm just wanting better mpg, same or better power/tq and the ability to start up the car in the summer or the winter. EFI is the way to go in my opinion.
 
Holley Terminator!! It's self tuning and if/when you get serious, the free upgrade to the Holley HP software and you have total control over it. I have it on my 383, my buddy has it on a BUILT 340, and lxmodguy (forum member) can tune it if you decide to go the HP route.
 
I've read a few dyno test results comparing them to a carb, the carb outperformed the EFI in the tests as far as HP goes. A properly tuned carb works perfectly fine but EFI can make those fine adjustments during warm up and elevation changes so it's all about what your after. For me if I can't work on it with a wrench or screwdriver I don't want it haha. Good luck
 
EFI conversions typically don't promise power increases, but most of the EFI systems we have installed showed better performance numbers - not because the EFI provides more power, but because the carb that came off wasn't properly dyno-tuned, as 747mopar suggests. Because these EFI systems are self-learning and self-tuning, they begin to make adjustments as soon as you start to drive and after about 20 minutes of driving with various conditions (light throttle, heavy throttle, cruise, etc.) the computer will have learned much of what it needs to know.

We've installed just about all of the systems out there (at least every brand) and FiTech EFI will be introducing a new kit next month for $795. You'll need your own fuel pump and return line, but this will include the TB, sensors, wide band O2, ECU, and harness. I'm running the FAST EZ-EFI, which is replaced with the EZ-Fuel system (article is forthcoming in a week or so).

The Holley systems are great and upgradeable, and Edelbrock has a nice system too. When choosing, look for the system that gives you the most for your buck, but also the options you want and if you do want to upgrade from the base system, see which one will allow seamless upgrades. Definitely wise to do your homework and research.
 
Hi,

I installed the FAST EZ-EFI on my 1970 Plymouth Road Runner and then drove it across country. As already mentioned above, EFI systems can handle changing conditions like no carb can. I drove my car in 90+ degree heat with A/C, 28 degree cold with defrosters, at sea level and up Pike's Peak to 14,000 feet. The system never missed a beat. Fantastic.
Perhaps in a scientific test, a carb can be perfectly tuned for a given day and given conditions, and will beat an EFI system with respect to power. If you really know what you are doing you could constantly fiddle with the carb to keep it running ideal. However, I would bet that in most real world situations the EFI will run a bit better than a carb. That certainly would be the case for me as I am no carb tuning expert.

So you would think at this point I will tell you that you should definitely get an EFI system. I won't. My opinion is it depends.

Remember that an EFI system, still needs a fuel pump and return line. Yes, I know that there are various systems out there that allow you to do something less, but the PROPER way to install one is with an in-tank fuel pump and a return line. All this adds to the cost and installation time. I have about $3000 in my EFI system. By the way, an additional benefit of an EFI system with a return line is vapor lock becomes a non-issue, since fuel is constantly returned back to the tank.

Having said the above, if plans for your car are to drive it in nice conditions mostly around town, I would consider a carb. They are simple, mechanical units, require no modifications to your car, and thus can be installed for the price of a rebuild (or new carb). In my case I would dyno tune the car with a carb expert and I am sure the carb would do just fine for most conditions.

Good luck with your choice.
 
I'm running the FITECH 1200 unit on my engine no complaints.
We will find out this coming Saturday at the track weather permitting....
 
GITEX said:
I'm running the FITECH 1200 unit on my engine no complaints.
We will find out this coming Saturday at the track weather permitting....
Click to expand...
Shooting for the 16th now, Northern Ohio weather...:mad:
 
How are throttle bodies rated? Can you put to large of a throttle body on. If I put to large of a carb on, it will take off like a tractor. If I go big with a throttle body, will the ECU learn and make the adjustments or does it just become a high tech tractor?
 
Just finished my Fitech 1200 install on 440 stroker: went very smooth. I chose to do away with MSD 6AL and fuel pressure gauge. Really cleaned up the engine bay. Fitech pump control I have going through a hidden switch.

FYI: WHEN you set your idle rpm: on the front of the fitech carb drivers side, there is a phillips screw adjustment.
Go to Dashboard, scroll down to IAC steps(idle air control) and see what yours is running. Mine initial was 197, supposed to be 3-10. If yours is high like mine was, turn the phillips screw in one full turn with the engine off.
Start your engine, let it warm up and then check your IAC. Mine was fluctuating between 0-4 and my rpm was about 1400. So, while the engine is running turn the phillips screw CCW to hit your target idle rpm.
You are done.

Very happy with the setup and their tech support. Fast tech support with pics when needed. Engine fired right up on first try.

If anyone needs any help just ask. I really like it.
 
That's some good in uwss. My friend around the corner just put a Fitech on his Nova a month or so back. But I haven't had a chance to take a ride and see how it is. It was a simple install. He was having trouble getting the setup to stay selected in the dashboard. I went through it a couple times after going through the directions and couldn't get it either. Finally looked at the directions again and buried on the third page it said how to save the new setup. It was very hard to find that info. Other than that minor instructional snafu, it's been good. I've been debating the same thing for my Dodge but I haven't gotten on the road yet and for just a cruiser it's probably not worth the expense. My brother will be able to tune the carb really well, so at least for a while I'll be sticking with it. Good luck with your decision.
 
texas69bee said:
How are throttle bodies rated? Can you put to large of a throttle body on. If I put to large of a carb on, it will take off like a tractor. If I go big with a throttle body, will the ECU learn and make the adjustments or does it just become a high tech tractor?
Click to expand...
Because your wideband O2 sensor is reading your A/FR, it is constantly making adjustments. Believe it or not, on my old 318 Poly have have the dual quad EFI and it's not 'over-carbed' like you would think. This system was designed for up to 1200 hp, and I'm about 340 crank HP. I had dual carburetors, so we converted to dual EFI. I gained RWHP and economy. When I removed one TB and installed a 4-barrel intake, I actually lost 9 RWHP. So it was running more efficiently with a pair of 1050cfm throttle bodies. Two 1000 cfm carbs and it would fall flat on its face. I'm also seeing about 16-17 mpg on the freeway at 65 mph.
 
MoparMitch... I've been following that for a while on the Holley website. I see they finally released it Sept. 30. If you go to there site you can see the setup instructions. After reading through it, I'm not clear how the EFI picks up the tach signal if I'm using a Mopar box for my electronic ignition.
Its on my wish list in the next few months.
 
The Mopar box goes away, use a chi box.
 
CDI, ya know, MSD.
Fat fingers, lol!
 
No problem
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

D
383 EFI intake
Replies
16
Views
668
Budnicks
Budnicks
2quick
Got the 572 back, Now lets find some power
2 3
Replies
44
Views
4K
2quick
2quick
M
Catalytic converts with sniper EFI? Due to health related problems
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
Davison
D
MelroseMopar
Holley Hyperspark distributor with carbs?
Replies
4
Views
3K
beanhead
beanhead
WhEElsofTerroR.
1973 B-body suspension overhaul
Replies
4
Views
1K
YY1
YY1
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top