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Brake booster rebuild question

clazar

clazar

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I am thinking about rebuilding & have my pwr brake booster rebuilt & powder coated over the winter. First, who does a good job doing it. And what is involved in removing it from the car? It is a 70 RR 440 + 6 auto car.

Thanks
Chuck
 
Car Nut said:
Booster Dewey does an excellent job. Not too hard to remove.
Click to expand...

Yes, he does a great job. As far as the OP wanting to powder coat it, I wouldn't. Just because of the o-rings, etc inside might deteriorate because of the heat that needs to melt the powder. Just my opinion.
 
Prior brakes out of Texas dose a great job of rebuilding.

Powder coating would have to be done with the unit disassembled, I primed and painted mine and it looks great.
 
Does it work?

Mine had only 3 or 4 parts inside.

Spring

diaphragm

rod

Might have had a center bushing.

I used Krylon battery protectant and a semi-gloss clear coat.

$18 and two hours labor.
 
Thanks everyone for all the suggestions & pics. But i've NEVER taken a booster out before. What is a good procedure to do it.

Chuck
 
Removing the instrument cluster makes it allot easier.
 
It's easy to come apart. A band around it and the halves come apart

470(3).jpg
 
Thanks again all for the info. But what is the procedure for removing the booster from the firewall & under dash.

Thanks
Chuck
 
Under dash is four studs on the booster, you need to remove the nuts, and two bolts on the brake pedal for the booster plunger.
Removing the instrument cluster makes it allot easier to get to but can be done without removing cluster.

You can download a manual from MyMopar web site if you don't have one, it explains everything
 
Top inboard nut is a real bitch.

Laying under the dash with your head grinding into the floorboard and torso twisted with legs hanging out the door is one of my favorite positions to work in.

Also a standard socket is too shallow to clear the stud, and a deep socket is too deep to allow clearance for the ratchet.

I had recently bought a set of Stanley brand sockets (walmart has them) that are about half the length of deep wells. They are nearly perfect.

Getting the linkage off including getting the pins out is a real pain, too.

I replaced the cotter pins with clevis pins so it would be easier next time.

There is a spring washer in there. Make sure you remember where it was. It tends to fall/bounce without calling attention to where it came from. The main pedal to linkage is also held by a self locking nut. That's fun, too.

I put my booster in a press, then removed the band clamp. Releasing the press allowed me to control the spring.

Spring pressure is not terrible. Could be done in a big vise or with a helper.

Press was super handy to put back together, though.
 
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