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Dealing with pitted metal

Holtzer1

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Location
Mid missouri
I'm dealing with some rust pits on the kids 71 b body...in the drip rails and other typical rust areas.
Tell me if I'm off base here
Wire wheel, sand and flap disc as much as I can.
Rust convertor in the pits that can't really be sanded, por15 over that. Sand again so the high spots are bare metal exposed again. Another coat of por, then sand, prep and epoxy primer..?
I have no access to a blaster of any sort, and no way of using one.
This seems like my best plan of action...
Thoughts?
 
I like the POR 15 plan, but use phosphoric acid (metal ready) after wire wheeling it. No rust converters.
 
I looked on ebay for phosphoric acid and I keep coming up with food grade....I doubt that's what I need. Any brand recommendations?
 
The POR 15 brand acid prep is called "Metal Ready" as 68gtxman's post says. It should be available wherever you buy your POR 15.
 
X 2 on the phosphoric acid check your local auto zone or home depot or a major store where they sell painting supplies the trick is to soak the metal you want to remove rust
 
Option 2 is fill the pits with lead then with respirator sand till level then prime and proceed. But the pits need to be serious in size..No other method will come close to proper repair like lead if the pit sizes are decent enough to be filled.
 
Double check that the acid or rust converter are compatible with your primer. SPI does not recommend rust converter or acid etch under their epoxy for example.
 
In the past I've used a mixture of white vinger and water in which kills rust! We used that back in the 70's to metal prep cars.
 
I always hear about reformer products.
Tried them once. Didn't like the heavy build up.
Seems like it might hide problems.
My advice. Worth what you pay for it.
Get as much rust as you can off. If it's pitted that will be almost impossible without grinding which makes the metal uniformly thinner or blasting which will still leave the thinner pits.
So that's a toss up sometimes. I have blasting equipment, so that what I do lots of times.
Wire wheels are limited in getting rust off sometimes.
I've had good luck with this paint over the years.
Get it at Lowe's Depot.
Thin as necessary for the application.
Over coat as necessary and topcoat. (Like the person said above. I usually hit it with rattle can lacquer based primer before top coat.)
This paint works good on rust.
Really.
7769730_1108_SRT_8oz_RustyMetalPrimer_480x480.ashx
 
os-pho
 
I wonder if using something like a evaporust soaked paper towel over the pitted area. And covering that with with some plasic so it doesnt dry out too quickly would work. They say you rinse with water. I would have an air hose to dry it out real good then hit it with some good epoxy would work?
 
I wonder if using something like a evaporust soaked paper towel over the pitted area. And covering that with with some plasic so it doesnt dry out too quickly would work. They say you rinse with water. I would have an air hose to dry it out real good then hit it with some good epoxy would work?
Evapo rust only works well when items are dunked into the solution, the paper towel method doesn't really work that great. Although on their site, there were pictures of someone that setup a rig to circulate evapo rust over an entire carbody into a trough and recycle the product, and it apparently worked, but that's a lot of work to remove rust.
 
Gotcha thanks for the info. Its going to save me a bunch of time. I have suspension pieces i wanted to hit without taking them off. Looks like im now going to take them off and soak them
 
I did that, used the 5 gallon bucket of evapo rust. Degrease than soak things like these and the results were great.
control arms.jpg
 
I would stay away from the POR15. It sticks to rusted metal, but will peel right off clean stuff. Best to get all the rust off and then epoxy primer.
 
Done this to a large extent on top and underside of my Coronet and would add that you MUST rinse off metal prep and scrub with a light brush while rinsing! Made the mistake of just a good rinse on one area, then dried and applied POR15. After it hardened, the area that I just painted would peel up the POR with my fingernail. The second area that I rinsed and lightly scrubbed was rock solid with no peel up. I ground off the POR 15 from the unscrubbed area (came off easy) in small sheets, rinsed while scrubbing, dried and repainted with POR15. Came out great and rock hard. I really like the stuff but you must adhere to the instructions to get good results.
 
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