Anyone want to rate a combo? Street/strip car

Hosehead · Nov 9, 2016

So, I am slowly switching my 65 belvedere to a track car but until I move it will be a street/strip car driven to the track. Right now it runs high 12's with a low compression 440, stock converter and 3.23's. I am going to build a motor soon and make a few upgrades. Just curious what you guys thought. Constructive criticisms, etc. feel free to chime in. Getting back into racing lately and having a blast. Here's what I'm thinking:
65 belvedere 2, full interior
Zero deck, stock stroke 440, true 10:1 motor, forged Pistons
Lightly ported stealths
Cam recommended by bullet:
Adv. duration 288/296
231/239@ 50
485/507 lift hydraulic on 108 centerline
Eddy performer intake, Holley 750
Tti 1 7/8" headers w 2.5" x-pipe exhaust
3000 stall converter 727 with tf2 shift kit
3400 lb SS springs
Frame tied
3.54 rear gear with 26.5" drag radials

Hoping to get it in the high 11's and race it for a while like that until I can move out of the city and uncork it, get a trailer etc. what do you guys think? Probably pretty tame for you guys but I'm having a good time easing back into it. Thanks! Flame away!

Dodge 330 · Nov 10, 2016

It sounds like a fun combo! I ran a 440 like that with .484 MP cam and stock Stealth heads. it was lots of fun on the street! The Drag Radials really made the car work. Before them 1st gear was pretty much worthless! I would recommend a single plane intake instead of the Performer. I really like the Holley Street Dominator.

PRND21 · Nov 10, 2016

A performer RPM would be a better street/strip dual plane manifold unless you go with a single plane manifold. Good luck with the build.

Hosehead · Nov 10, 2016

PRND21 said:
A performer RPM would be a better street/strip dual plane manifold unless you go with a single plane manifold. Good luck with the build.

Thanks guys, I was on the fence about an intake. It has the eddy performer on it already. Like I said, it will be driven to the track which is an hour each way, unfortunately. I've really enjoyed following dodge 330's build as his car is exactly what I'm going for until we move out of the city and I have more room.

PRND21 · Nov 10, 2016

The performer and performer RPM are 2 different manifolds. RPM is a good bit taller. Good low end, but breathes better at higher rpm.

Hosehead · Nov 10, 2016

Oh for sure. I was just stating what I had on the car currently. I guess I'll have to see how much time I can spend at the track(hopefully lots) and decide on a single or dual plane. Thanks a bunch for the help guys! I really appreciate it!

Hosehead · Nov 10, 2016

And now that I think about it, I will have to check the intake on the car. It may be a rpm. I remember it had the lettering on it ground off to appear more stock.

PurpleBeeper · Nov 10, 2016

That sounds like a good combo to me if you want to drive it on the street.....and I'd vote for a dual plane intake

Budnicks · Nov 10, 2016

Ask 10 guys your going to get 10 different answers

1st IMO If you have the under-hood room
I'd add a 1/2" or a 1" open phenolic spacer
it'll pick up a few pony's & make the dual plane manifold
more, track {street/strip} worthy...

Use Commetic head gaskets, don't skimp there...
I'd try to run as close to zero deck/flat top as possible,
along with valve relieved pistons...

Fully Ported Heads will make a monster difference,
you can update, most the other stuff latter, it's money well spent
biggest bang for your $$$ on a Mopar wedge,
the heads are the biggest choke point HP killers IMO...

Not a bad combo for what your doing,
But;
I'd probably go with like a 3.73:1 or 3.91:1 gear &
get closer to the 10:1 final drive ratio in 1st gear,
{especially stock stroke}
helps to move a heavy car, in the 1st 60ft much better,
IMO probably a tad bit looser converter too,
with that 3000 converter for street/strip use,
But I'd also go to the tallest widest tire {28"-29"} that you can fit
inside the rear fenders too, with no rubbing issues,
give it more footprint/roll-out, makes for better traction...
I'd probably go with a bigger carb too
{Maybe a 850- even 950 QuickFuel, Proform or Holley HP tuned properly
will flow way better, especially once you learn how to tune it, with aftermarket & adjustable metering plates, air bleeds etc.}...

But that's me, I'm not your engine builder,
I know what I like & what works for me...

I rarely do this, I hate to make cam recommendations
I know what I like & what works for my taste where I live & how I drive
I usually leave it to a camshaft expert/or engine builder
that knows the combo, compression, head flow,
carb cfm, head flow cfm, ignition, converter, gear etc.,

I personally like a cam with a bit more lift
{you could go with a 1.6: rockers & get there}
& more centerline like 112*-114* if it's going to be street driven
at all, especially with an automatic & like a 3.23:1 - a 3.54:1 gear,
IMO lift won't hurt you as much as the duration will...

there's also an old trick with the dual planes
{especially if you don't run a spacer}
to cut a notch in the top of the plenum divider
to help equalize the cylinders/flow...
Sorry I don't rember the exact size of the notch,
but seems like it {wild guess} was like
1-1/2" long x 1/2" deep centered

I'd also go with a set of Calvert CalTrac's too,
great Bolt-on traction aid, work well with drag radials too
you can run around with less preload on the street &
put some preload back in them for @ the track...
Good shocks too, make a world of a difference...

Anyway sounds like a fun project/build,
there's more than one way to skin a proverbial cat...

Good luck & Happy Moparing
Have fun what ever you end up building, you can always upgrade
It's nice to do it right the 1st time thou...

Chassis 9th edition by Mopar Performance Books
Engines Speed secret & racing Modifications Mopar v-8s etc.
by Mopar Performance Books
How to Super Tune & Modify Holley Carbs by CarTech books
Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook by HPBooks
Engine Airflow by HPBooks
some is old info/tech but still very relevant for your type of build

68 HEMI GTS · Nov 10, 2016

Better heads, CNC stealths or some trick flows
Solid cam 240's/250's @ .050
9 1/2 vert
3.91/4.10 gear

Hosehead · Nov 10, 2016

Thanks everyone! I really appreciate the help and of course I neglected to mention budget. This is why I opted for stealths over trick flows etc. I was thinking of having a bottom end that I could improve on later on. Also, the nearest 1/4 mile track is an hour away and I'll be driving this thing there so I'll definitely be sticking with the 3.54's for now. Also, thanks for the book recommendations, Budnicks! Can't wait to grab some of these and start reading. Like I said, I'm having a blast running 12.90 with my tired 440 but can't wait to go faster! Thanks again all for the advice. Keep it coming!

Dodge 330 · Nov 10, 2016

I run a 1" phenolic spacer as well. My car really liked it and picked up quite a bit with it. I run the single plane on the street and always have, even on 318's. Never a lack of torque. 3.54/3.55's work well with a torque motor. Another place that people often overlooked is the distributor. I run a stock one with both lightweight Mr. Gasket 925B springs in a stock electronic distributor. Couple it to an MSD box, and you have an ignition that's reliable and has a rev limiter. A lower Moroso underdrive pulley is a cheap source to free up power too. I painted mine black so it kinda disappears...

bobtile · Nov 10, 2016

Budnicks said:
Ask 10 guys your going to get 10 different answers

1st IMO If you have the under-hood room
I'd add a 1/2" or a 1" open phenolic spacer
it'll pick up a few pony's & make the dual plane manifold
more, track {street/strip} worthy...

Use Commetic head gaskets, don't skimp there...
I'd try to run as close to zero deck/flat top as possible,
along with valve relieved pistons...

Fully Ported Heads will make a monster difference,
you can update, most the other stuff latter, it's money well spent
biggest bang for your $$$ on a Mopar wedge,
the heads are the biggest choke point HP killers IMO...

Not a bad combo for what your doing,
But;
I'd probably go with like a 3.73:1 or 3.91:1 gear &
get closer to the 10:1 final drive ratio in 1st gear,
{especially stock stroke}
helps to move a heavy car, in the 1st 60ft much better,
IMO probably a tad bit looser converter too,
with that 3000 converter for street/strip use,
But I'd also go to the tallest widest tire {28"-29"} that you can fit
inside the rear fenders too, with no rubbing issues,
give it more footprint/roll-out, makes for better traction...
I'd probably go with a bigger carb too
{Maybe a 850- even 950 QuickFuel, Proform or Holley HP tuned properly
will flow way better, especially once you learn how to tune it, with aftermarket & adjustable metering plates, air bleeds etc.}...

But that's me, I'm not your engine builder,
I know what I like & what works for me...

I rarely do this, I hate to make cam recommendations
I know what I like & what works for my taste where I live & how I drive
I usually leave it to a camshaft expert/or engine builder
that knows the combo, compression, head flow,
carb cfm, head flow cfm, ignition, converter, gear etc.,

I personally like a cam with a bit more lift
{you could go with a 1.6: rockers & get there}
& more centerline like 112*-114* if it's going to be street driven
at all, especially with an automatic & like a 3.23:1 - a 3.54:1 gear,
IMO lift won't hurt you as much as the duration will...

there's also an old trick with the dual planes
{especially if you don't run a spacer}
to cut a notch in the top of the plenum divider
to help equalize the cylinders/flow...
Sorry I don't rember the exact size of the notch,
but seems like it {wild guess} was like
1-1/2" long x 1/2" deep centered

I'd also go with a set of Calvert CalTrac's too,
great Bolt-on traction aid, work well with drag radials too
you can run around with less preload on the street &
put some preload back in them for @ the track...
Good shocks too, make a world of a difference...

Anyway sounds like a fun project/build,
there's more than one way to skin a proverbial cat...

Good luck & Happy Moparing
Have fun what ever you end up building, you can always upgrade
It's nice to do it right the 1st time thou...

Chassis 9th edition by Mopar Performance Books
Engines Speed secret & racing Modifications Mopar v-8s etc.
by Mopar Performance Books
How to Super Tune & Modify Holley Carbs by CarTech books
Torqueflite A-727 Transmission Handbook by HPBooks
Engine Airflow by HPBooks
some is old info/tech but still very relevant for your type of build

I was going to say this.

Hosehead · Nov 10, 2016

bobtile said:
I was going to say this.

For sure! I do enjoy hearing the different opinions!

66Satellite47 · Nov 12, 2016

My 2 cents, I've been a single plane guy for a long time, but my street driving is fairly limited. Also my current car had a 500" motor. It worked just fine on the street with an old fairly long duration high lift (310-310 & 565/585) cam and a Victor manifold. Give Budnicks thoughts due consideration. Get a top grade converter, they make all the difference.

Rick Carson · Nov 14, 2016

That's what I love about this web site, everyone is right. 9 responses so far on this subject and not a bad bit advice to be found! what a brotherhood. :thumbsup:

383man · Nov 15, 2016

Some good advise here for sure. I also like the Eddy RPM intake as I run the Indy dual plane intake on my 63 which is a street car that I also drive to the track thats 1 hr (45 miles) from my house. I had a combo close to yours in my old 440. I used 906 heads I ported but the Stealths are better. I had the MP .557 cam and my comp was 10.0 with KB pistons. I also use a phenolic spacer on my street car as it will also help in keeping the fuel cooler in the carb which is a big help if you run pump gas like me. I used the Holley Street Dominator intake on my old combo which is a nice single plane for the street and I used a Holley 850 DP carb. That old combo ran a best of 11.49 @ 116 in my 3700 lb 63. Good luck with your build and just ask what ever you want as these guys here are always willing to help. Ron

66Satellite47 · Nov 25, 2016

A 850 DP can work just fine even on the street, with a fair amount of tuning. Will really work well if you get things properly set up.

66Satellite47 · Nov 29, 2016

My Satellite at 3670# with me went 11.13 @ 122.5. The Victor manifold & 850 DP worked just fine on the street too. Fairly loose converter & 4.10 gear.

Dodge 330 · Nov 29, 2016

66Satellite47 said:
A 850 DP can work just fine even on the street, with a fair amount of tuning. Will really work well if you get things properly set up.

Exactly. My 850 DP Demon is very streetable and gets fairly good milege when I can keep my foot out of it. ...which isn't very often!

Anyone want to rate a combo? Street/strip car

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