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I'd like a little more go fast 69' RR 383

Bcamp69 said:
I have the original 383 in my 69 RR. It's a 727 and 3:23 rear. Only modifications I can see is Edelbrock 1806 carb and Hooker Comp headers.

How do I make this thing faster off the line? I will likely never race it although some amateur passes would be fun at the local dragway.

I'd like to keep my budget around 2k.
Click to expand...

A whiff of nitrous will work :)
 
Sounds like you're just looking for a bit more than you have, already. Add some gear, stall-speed, and a better exhaust system. Factory 440-AVS's are a good bolt-on, and make a 383 run better. Without going internal[camshaft], your working options are less, and some won't make much difference.
 
Someone suggested 3.73-3.91-4.10 gears. These are a huge jump from your 3.23's. If you're going to have to do any hyway driving stick with the 3.55's
If you use an edelbrock 750 carb I suggest you change the accelerated squirter nozzle to a "24" and set the actuator rod to the closest hole to the hinge. This will prevent any stumble on take off.
 
Any odd AFB AVS, Edelbrock, or Carter carb parts can be found at quadrajetparts.com.
 
One more thing. Don't overlook the street demon 750 carb. I have one on a 440 and it does everything well. At $320 for an electrician choke model it's hard to beat.
 
Street Demon 750------$320
Weiand dual plane intake----$225
3.55 gear---- $200
Gear install kit----$100
Valley pan with heat crossover blocked( comes with intake gaskets) at summit $28
Electric fan ( reduces drag on engine) not needed but every little bit helps ---- $125
10-3/4" factory high stall converter if you don't already have it. $300

That has you in at $1298 well below your $2000 budget. I'm assuming you or a buddy has the skills to set up the rear gears. While you have the rear end apart you may want to install Green bearings on your axle shafts. You'll still have $ left over for nick nac items
 
I agree on the smaller converter. The 650 carb will be fine, no need to change. We've gone in the 12 second bracket with them. If you don't run the freeway, a 3.91 or 4.10 will give superior performace. No better intake than the Performer RPM. Next step up would be a cam. Comp 268 H would work well, pretty mild. If you have the factory stock compression (rated 10.5 but in reality below 10-1) it may not like the quicker advance curve depending on temp, fuel quality, engine condition etc. But it is a cheap and quick upgrade if it will take a quicker curve without detonation.
Doug
 
727 said:
Street Demon 750------$320
Weiand dual plane intake----$225
3.55 gear---- $200
Gear install kit----$100
Valley pan with heat crossover blocked( comes with intake gaskets) at summit $28
Electric fan ( reduces drag on engine) not needed but every little bit helps ---- $125
10-3/4" factory high stall converter if you don't already have it. $300

That has you in at $1298 well below your $2000 budget. I'm assuming you or a buddy has the skills to set up the rear gears. While you have the rear end apart you may want to install Green bearings on your axle shafts. You'll still have $ left over for nick nac items
Click to expand...

Thanks for the cost breakdown. I have some friends who are knowledgeable and can help out.
 
dvw said:
I agree on the smaller converter. The 650 carb will be fine, no need to change. We've gone in the 12 second bracket with them. If you don't run the freeway, a 3.91 or 4.10 will give superior performace. No better intake than the Performer RPM. Next step up would be a cam. Comp 268 H would work well, pretty mild. If you have the factory stock compression (rated 10.5 but in reality below 10-1) it may not like the quicker advance curve depending on temp, fuel quality, engine condition etc. But it is a cheap and quick upgrade if it will take a quicker curve without detonation.
Doug
Click to expand...

This may be a dumb question but what does changing the cam involve? Is it pretty simple once the itake is off? Valvetrain can remain the same?
 
Gears will make the single biggest improvement off the line... but does come at a cost, higher speed = higher rpm than what you're running bow.
If you've never set up a rear before I highly suggest you have someone reputable and proficient to do it. Special tools &, knowledge of specs are required to do it right. When done wrong can be catastrophic and cost lots $$$$!!!!
 
If ur figuring 90% on the street then I wouldn't block off intake heat crossover; it'll be better running while warming up and at lower speeds.
 
Do you have a dial back timing light? Curious what the intial timing is set at currently, because a little turn of the dizzy (in the right direction) will wake the car up off the line. But just be careful if it starts misfiring (too much timing then).

Where in IN are you?
 
Bcamp69 said:
This may be a dumb question but what does changing the cam involve? Is it pretty simple once the itake is off? Valvetrain can remain the same?
Click to expand...
You need to remove the alt, P/S pump (if so equipped), fan, W/P, timing chain cover and timing gears. On the Road Runner (not sure on other models) you will also have to remove the grill to get enough clearance to remove and install the new cam. No need to remove the intake manifold. Once you remove the valve covers, rocker assembly & push rods, the lifters can be pulled through the push rod holes using a telescoping magnetic pick up tool.

This is the one I used.
at-pu22.jpg
 
Ranger16 is right, but I would pull intake if ur inexperienced. Makes everything easier,especially if varnish holds up some of the lifters while trying to pull them out. Also gives you some room to put a finger on rear of cam when r&r'ing to stop lobes from digging in to cam bearings.
 
If you do change the cam. You need to make sure your valve springs are compadable with your new cam. Be sure to use ZDDP zinc additive in your oil for cam break in.
 
727 said:
If you have reservations about the Eddy RPM, get the wieand dual plane. And don't forget a new valley pan with the heat crossovers blocked off.
Click to expand...
The reason I went with the Performer RPM was the Weiland 8008 was on back order for 6-8 weeks.
 
440beep said:
Do you have a dial back timing light? Curious what the intial timing is set at currently, because a little turn of the dizzy (in the right direction) will wake the car up off the line. But just be careful if it starts misfiring (too much timing then).

Where in IN are you?
Click to expand...

I do not have a timing light. I live near Muncie. One of those will be going in the cart as well.
 
Seems the Weiand and Performer RPM are the two most suggested intakes. I'm guessing either will be just fine.
 
I'm leaning towards 3:55 rear end because I do like to take it out on highways, 55-60mph, I try to avoid the interstate.

What's the process for the rear end gears? If I order a new/reconditioned set will they arrive ready to install? Can I unbolt the 3:23 and bolt the 3:55 in or is the installation the part that requires experience?

Cam choice. Comp 268 H has been recommended. Any others? What cam does it likely have in it now?
 
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