Engine Torque Strap

Mike Gaines · Nov 25, 2016

I have attached a pix of the "standard" torque strap that we have all seen. I have one of these on my motor. My motor still has stock "rubber" motor mounts and even with the torque strap the motor still "flexes" or "torques" up on the drivers side quite a lot when I rev it up.
I need to put in a motor plate or steel motor mounts...but...question is:
Has anyone ever used a similar torque strap BUT from the top of the frame up to the open lug on the drivers side of the water pump. I saw one on an old 63 Plymouth super stocker but I have concerns about the motor flexing enough where it might just break the front off of the water pump...any thoughts...or has anyone one seen anything like I am talking about ?

66Satellite47 · Nov 25, 2016

Mike just go to solid motor mounts. The straps only work so far. My '66 Satellite had a Mancini strap, still had a broken motor mount. I am installing Moroso solid mounts. In the old days in my '65 Coronet I made my own solid mounts that worked great. Don't dick around with the torque strap.

hunt2elk · Nov 25, 2016

I have been using the torque strap like in your pic above in the standard location along with Mancini's rubber mounts that have been modified with through bolts. I think they are around $50. Kind of double insurance in my mind, without the vibration of a solid mount. I went this route after have a Poly Loc failure. Although my cars are only street driven and only 545 hp. Don't most guys runs solid mounts on cars that are primarily strip driven?

66Satellite47 · Nov 25, 2016

I guess it depends on your torque level if a torque strap like the Mancini deal will work. Mine didn't. Not sure how much the vibration is increased with a solid mount. My experience is only with a drag race application. My street/strip 500" motor broke the motor mount with the Mancini strap. I'm going solid.

MOPOWER871 · Nov 25, 2016

Mike, made this one , stock mounts bolted through, a clevis pin mount off of the top frame rail, to the water pump ear, worked great.

66Satellite47 · Nov 25, 2016

Looks like great creativity.

dvw · Nov 25, 2016

We replicated the rubber portion of the drivers side mount out of aluminum. Painted it black and in it went. No failure orvibration on either the 65 BB or my sons 850hp SB turbo car that currently use this method..
Doug

Canyon707 · Nov 25, 2016

Mike I thought you had a motor plate installed. I used steel on the passenger side and on the driver side rubber with a chain bolted to mount and block.

not so famous bob · Nov 25, 2016

we used to run a spring steel strap from the top of the frame to an empty head bolt hole, worked for 14 yrs. on a hemi superstocker.

mmissile · Nov 25, 2016

Just do the plate.

Tempest 455 · Nov 25, 2016

MOPOWER871 said:
Mike, made this one , stock mounts bolted through, a clevis pin mount off of the top frame rail, to the water pump ear, worked great. View attachment 374765

Almost exactly what I have.

Schober Motorsports · Nov 25, 2016

I still feel like an engine plate would be superior to any limiter.

Mike Gaines · Nov 25, 2016

MOPOWER871 said:
Mike, made this one , stock mounts bolted through, a clevis pin mount off of the top frame rail, to the water pump ear, worked great. View attachment 374765

MoPower...this is EXACTLY the setup I was asking about where I had concerns of the torque strap load from the engine torque actually breaking he ear off of the water pump....Please confirm how long you have been running this setup with no problems....it is exactly what I want to do...(in advance of getting a motor plate). Thanks, Mike

Mike Gaines · Nov 25, 2016

Tempest 455 said:
Almost exactly what I have.

Tempest...how long have you had your setup like this and have you had any problem with it actually breaking the ear off of the water pump ? thanks, Mike

Tempest 455 · Nov 25, 2016

Mike mine is the same as design and tabs but bolts to the head.

moparpoor · Nov 25, 2016

Schober Motorsports said:
I still feel like an engine plate would be superior to any limiter.

View attachment 374804

I run a motor plate I honestly can't tell any difference between a good motor mount solid mount or motor plate as for vibration

Mike Gaines · Nov 25, 2016

Tempest 455 said:
Mike mine is the same as design and tabs but bolts to the head.

Tempest . .. can u get me a pix showing both ends...thanks

MOPOWER871 · Nov 25, 2016

Mike Gaines said:
MoPower...this is EXACTLY the setup I was asking about where I had concerns of the torque strap load from the engine torque actually breaking he ear off of the water pump....Please confirm how long you have been running this setup with no problems....it is exactly what I want to do...(in advance of getting a motor plate). Thanks, Mike

Hi Mike, never had any problems, for years same set up motor making close to 825 hp at the flywheel. strap is a 1/2" stainless steel with two hyme joints (fancy turnbuckle.)
street/ strip driven motor don't budge. i would preload the strap slightly since its sitting on the rubber mount

bobtile · Nov 26, 2016

I was never able to feel much of a vibration with my solid mounts in my GTX.
That car was driven on the street a lot!
I would just go with a motor plate if you are worried about the water pump ear.
I ran a turnbuckle on my Duster in the 80's for three years.
It was only a 340 but it was a 4 speed.
That never broke the waterpump.

Tempest 455 · Nov 26, 2016

Mike Gaines said:
Tempest . .. can u get me a pix showing both ends...thanks

I'll go out to garage and take a pic today.

Engine Torque Strap

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