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Help.. Correct kick down linkage rod for 1967 440

67convertible

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All,

thanks for your help in advance.!!

i am trying to figure out if my 1967 440 convertible (with RB 440) should have a 3 piece kick down linkage or the single rod. It has never kick down properly and with the single rod, i am having issue adjusting,... The rod is too short to throw the kickdown lever all the way back..

please advise and thanks!!!
67 convertible
 
Have a service manual? It will show the correct kick-down linkage for your 67.
 
My bet it's a three piece, carb to bell crank to bell crank on trans then to trans. I don't when they went to a one throttle pressure control rod ( AKA kickdown linkage) but I don't think it was then 70?72? If you don't have it right you can burn out the clutches! I Know from doing it!

WRONG I found a single rod setup for Kick down linkage in a 66 parts book. It was in throttle linkage but said Imperial. Showed a 4 barrel carb and a single rod to trans.
 
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thanks for both replies. i found information and it should be a 3 piece setup.. Not So Famous Bob is helping me out, Thx Bob!! I believe the kickdown rod is from a small block (318) and Fran, you are correct.. it ruined the clutches!!

I am always amazed how the members here are so knowledgeable and HELPFUL!!!!! thx everyone!
 
The 3 piece ones are for the cars with the tight eng bay ,like a duster with a v8 but say a charger with a small block or Bb is a single rod type. so I'm going to say if it's not hitting anything it's a single rod type but the tri setup will do the same job and you'll be able to have more adjustment
 
The three piece is the correct one, but there are different three pieces. A two barrel had a shorter upper rod. The B block was shorter on the intermediate rod than the RB. Then there is all the small block stuff. Hard to tell when just sitting on a bench.... This is not a kickdown settup but a pressure control linkage. Has to be bottomed out when you have full throttle... I have seen a lot of burned up clutches due to low pressure... DannO
 
thanks for the update. Not So Famous Bob is providing the 3 piece setup off a '67 B Body with a 440-4V and 727. Only part he did not have was the bell crank bracket. I will make sure the transmission lever goes all the way back when carb is opened to full throttle!
 
thanks for the update. Not So Famous Bob is providing the 3 piece setup off a '67 B Body with a 440-4V and 727. Only part he did not have was the bell crank bracket. I will make sure the transmission lever goes all the way back when carb is opened to full throttle!

Not sure these will help from my 67 because I've never been completely sure it's all correct - but seems to work after careful adjustment. It's 3 pieces down to the transmission.



 
Thank you!! the pics help tremendously! Just have to pull all the parts together!!!
 
Your welcome. The car was up on a lift so here is a picture of the rest of it from the underside.

 
Saw "kick down" linkage pkg on ebay $225 plus $8/9 shipping. Ouch. item 122235780227
 
WATCH FROM 11:57, FOR BELL CRANK SET UP .GREAT VIDEO


That is a good video - dredged up memories of when I last adjusted mine about 10 years ago while reading the steps from the shop manual. I may need to go do it again now.
 
Manifold throttle bracket on Ebay item 262727359157. Don't known if it's the right one? $45
 
Does anyone know - do any of the linkage or external adjustments have any effect on shift timing at part throttle? My car shifts pretty quickly into 2nd and then 3rd at normal throttle when leaving a light or something - probably in 3rd by 20 mph. I would it to run out just a bit longer in 1st and 2nd. Of course a 440 has enough torque that it may just be normal function.
 
This affects full throttle, part throttle and line pressure. your adjustment is too short or your geometry is off...
question, is your carb an aftermarket unit?? The point of how far your hookup is from the throttle shaft will have a big affect on this adjustment.
 
The only external adjustment is the throttle pressure control valve which should be all the way back at full throttle. There is an adjustment on the valve body. Tried to upload stuff from service manual file to big???
On the Service Diagnosis Page Under shifts erratic . low fluid, aerated fluid, wrong throttle linkage adjustment or gearshift control linkage adjustment, Hydraulic pressures too high/low, governor sticking, oil filter clogged, valve body malfunction or leakage, clutches or servos sticking over not operating, faulty oil pump worn or broken input shaft and/or reaction shaft support rings. The simple stuff first, hard stuff last. A service is a must if you want to dig to a trans. I burned up the clutches in my trans and dug into the trans and fixed it myself, never did any trans work before. If you ever do it yourself read trans service start to finish FIRST. Several times doesn't hurt, there is at least one measurement you what to take before you rip into it. The internal adjustment is the Line pressure adjustment.
 
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Fran has it right. Lengthening any one of the adjustments may help a little.
 
Picture of throttle control out of a 1966 service manual.
linkage 2.jpg
 
I'm running a 800 Edelbrock with the Mopar throttle linkage adaptor piece. I've done a lot of work on the distributor to dial in a lot more initial timing and that and other carb adjustments have probably changed my curb idle adjustment and thrown the kick down adjustment out a little. I last adjusted the linkage about 10 years ago. I'll re-adjust it and see what it does.

thanks
 
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