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Max wedge on the street or not what do you say

67coronetman

67coronetman

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Hello there gentlemen just going to curious what everybody's opinion may be on this Topix I know some are for it and I know some may be against it and it be usable on the street or not is it a good idea to open up your head and your intake 2 max wedge and run a dominator on the street like I said some are for it and some may be against it just like my current combination I run a single plane it's been opened up some people say you can't run on the street and some say you can I've never had an issue with it runs just fine
 
Max wedge ... no problem. Dominator ... hmmm, I think there are better choices for the street.
 
I'm agreeing with Stanton on the Max Wedge ports, they won't be a problem. The Dominator, well, older Dominators had some fuel atomization problems at lower velocities and may not work well. "Hey I got this cheap Dominator!" NOT!
The newer Dominators, especially those with annular boosters should work very well on the street. Heck, there are even 750cfm Dominators.
 
a friend of mine runs a 1050 Dominator on his 528 hemi on the street with not one problem also the motor makes 750 horsepower
 
An acquaintance just sold his 63 Max Wedge clone (Red/Red)
He had a real Max Wedge engine in the car
Pics to follow soon
He told me it took 20+ minutes to get the car to idle smoothly
They were REAL RACE CARS...nasty on the street
I also heard this from Bob Mosher
(I'm doing a maxie 63 Polara right now)
 
Wives appreciate in value every everybody's opinion I was just curious because my head right now or not Max wedged but they are opened up fairly well I run a Mopar M1 single-plane intake and 950 Holly at this moment and I've never had an issue ever was Street ability on my car as it sits right now none I had a buddy had a motor built more than mine with a Mopar M1 intake and a 1050 dominator never had an issue with every single day to and from his work short trip but he enjoyed it drove on the weekends I currently have a good friend who has a 572 stroker Hemi and it's 68 Charger and he runs an 1150 dominator runs just fine perfectly on the street no problems at all I just asked because I've heard a lot of people say that running Max wedge ports on the street is not a good idea or a dominator I guess you know opinions vary and some people like it some people don't that's why I'm asking but I'm always open to suggestion and I listened what people have to say to and I appreciate all y'all's comments
 
Great topic and one I'll be watching. While I can't offer any seat of the paints experience as of yet, I will be running Max wedge Indy -1 Heads with a Comp .278/.281 @.50 (.681/.660 lift) roller, 11:1, 440, On the street. I was also debating the 4150 vs 4500 Carb set up and talked to a lot of different people about it. Comp, Indy, Hughes, AED, F.A.S.T, Dynamic, Etc.. and what I found out was in order to run a head with 350-380 cc intake runners it takes a lot of cam to feed it. Reducing cam size much below what I currently run will make a very wild street motor still wild but be very piggish with very poor throttle response and performance. This was brought about by my questioning of my cam Choice (Bought it used) and wanting to make it behave a bit better (on the street) without losing to much performance. Comp directed me to talk with F.A.S.T about the possibility of fuel injection as it would make for much better street manners and a much more tune-able idle circuit. The way it was told to me was a motor like mine will have very little vacuum signal at idle and would require a very fat idle circuit @ 1300 rpm to run. Fuel injection can be dialed back and forced to spray at set AF ratios not dependent on a vacuum signal. So I ended up with the FAST XFI Sportsman system good for 1200hp and traded my Indy 4500 flange Manifold for a Indy 4150 to accept the throttle body. If and when I get this thing running I'll let you know how it does around town.

Info below:
http://www.fuelairspark.com/fas/xfi-sportsmantm-throttle-body-engine-control-systemhtml/
 
IMG_1416.JPG IMG_1418.JPG IMG_1419.JPG IMG_1420.JPG IMG_1421.JPG IMG_1422.JPG
 
67coronetman said:
Wives appreciate in value every everybody's opinion I was just curious because my head right now or not Max wedged but they are opened up fairly well I run a Mopar M1 single-plane intake and 950 Holly at this moment and I've never had an issue ever was Street ability on my car as it sits right now none I had a buddy had a motor built more than mine with a Mopar M1 intake and a 1050 dominator never had an issue with every single day to and from his work short trip but he enjoyed it drove on the weekends I currently have a good friend who has a 572 stroker Hemi and it's 68 Charger and he runs an 1150 dominator runs just fine perfectly on the street no problems at all I just asked because I've heard a lot of people say that running Max wedge ports on the street is not a good idea or a dominator I guess you know opinions vary and some people like it some people don't that's why I'm asking but I'm always open to suggestion and I listened what people have to say to and I appreciate all y'all's comments
Click to expand...
IQ52 is correct.....I run a 505 with Max Wedge ported Indy EZ heads, super Victor intake, and a new 1150 2 circuit Dominator with downleg boosters on the street and drag strip with no problems. As a matter of fact, I went to the 2 circuit carb to try and get some improved fuel economy compared to the 1050 3 circuit I was previously running and it's working out well with no loss in ET or MPH.

John B.
 
splicer said:
IQ52 is correct.....I run a 505 with Max Wedge ported Indy EZ heads, super Victor intake, and a new 1150 2 circuit Dominator with downleg boosters on the street and drag strip with no problems. As a matter of fact, I went to the 2 circuit carb to try and get some improved fuel economy compared to the 1050 3 circuit I was previously running and it's working out well with no loss in ET or MPH.

John B.
Click to expand...
Sorry....meant to say annular boosters....
 
super-bee_ski said:
An acquaintance just sold his 63 Max Wedge clone (Red/Red)
He had a real Max Wedge engine in the car
Pics to follow soon
He told me it took 20+ minutes to get the car to idle smoothly
They were REAL RACE CARS...nasty on the street
I also heard this from Bob Mosher
(I'm doing a maxie 63 Polara right now)
Click to expand...

Ski; I've been running a max wedge motor, albeit with 10:1 compression (91 octane in CA) for the past 6 years. Also, the original iron max wedge heads have been ported and polished and the intake port matched. The secret to a fast warm-up and smooth running is in the carburetor tuning. I've run both Edelbrock 750s and 500s with equal success. From a cold start to drive off is usually about 3 or 4 minutes. The only thing I will concede is that you can't set it and forget it, especially with poor quality fuel. Constant tinkering is part of the fun for me.

DSCN4075.JPG
 
Colorado Dave:
Anything you, IQ52 and a few others say, I take as GOSPEL
Always!
Bar none....
But this old timer said his was cantankerous
After hearing that, I did some research and I did realize the Ports are large...
so, all I figured was these engines needed to "run"
(Kind of like an old 70 Solid lifter Torino SCJ I drove, it didn't want to idle, nasty)
On my build I did the 440 build up w/ ported 452 heads, A&A trans manifold, carb/linkage kit
I went with the 500 CFM eddies
TTIs

So; again, I DO always listen to you, Mike Gaines, IQ52 etc....
Cuz I know you guys are the real deal....

Thanks
(PS: you most likely remember me repeating this in different posts, I had always heard the 13.5 to 1 compression engines were difficult on the street)
 
Last edited:
Pasted from:

NEW! 413 dyno tests conducted at Chrysler in 1959

This work resulted in the 1962 introduction of the Max Wedge 413, which came equipped with not only a cross-ram setup (this time a short one with the carburetors mounted conventionally between the valve covers), but also a pair of huge, upswept cast iron exhaust manifolds. These are probably the most exotic-looking factory race parts ever made in the United States. Pistons were available in two compression ratios: 11:1 and 13.5:1. Mechanical cams and lifters were used . The heads were a new design with huge (2.08" intake) valves ground to a tulip shape. There were many other special parts used as well, including beefed-up valve gear and oiling components. Also, the factory made sure to upgrade the transmissions bolted behind these motors.

These parts made the 413 Max Wedge cars all but unusable on the street, but on the track the results were immediate. The 1962 NHRA record books show four class records established by the 413. With the correct gearing and tires, mid-twelve-second passes became commonplace.
 
I do not run a dominator carb, but my 512, indy single plane,max wedge port heads, is my daily driver,no problem.
 
My initial plan was to make my car a Max Wedge clone complete with crossram. Instead I've gone with standard port heads ported to maximum size (but not max wedge) that will work with a standard valley tray (with minor trimming in the ports). I used a ported Holley Street Dominator intake and an 850 cfm speed Demon carb. The car runs as perfect as I could ever have expected on the street, gets good mileage and starts instantly no matter the weather. In my mind, NO COMPROMISES other than the visual impact when you open the hood. I can live with that...
It was 40° the other morning and, with one pump of the accelerator it started, stayed running and putted around town the same as it does on a 70° day.
 
Max Wedge on the Street:
In the summer of 1963 I purchased a BRAND NEW Aluminum Front End Max Wedge 426 1963 Plymouth (I was 21 years old at the time).
Like an idiot, in addition to drag racing it almost every weekend, I also drove it on the street quite a bit, just to show off to my buddies.
Car ran on the street just fine with no problems.....and this is, like I said, with a brand new 1963 Max Wedge car.

63 side shot.jpg
 
I don't see any real issues
especially if it has a good hot ignition system,
good distributor with the proper curve, advance restrictions
{& use an adj. vacuum advance for the street, some might suggest too}
some quality low ohm resistance wires, the proper heat range plugs &
the carb is "actually tuned properly"
jetted, proper size air bleeds/emulsion tube/idle circuit jets
the proper color/size accel. pump cam & discharge nozzles etc.

with a single plane or a newer Dominator

I doubt it'll be a bolt on & run fine, out of the box {you my get lucky}
IMO it'll need tuning & tinkering, maybe even
some dyno or track time to get it perfect...

Your camshaft choice & your converter selection
will probably dictate how "cantankerous" or "drivable"
it may actually be, just make sure you keep it cool,
have fresh cool dense air not under hood heated air &
has plenty of fuel supply....

Kind of basic performance 101 stuff...

If you don't have any books on tuning the carb & ignition properly,
I'd suggest that you get one, learn the ins & out of them both...
1st Before you do your build, it'll be money well spent...

good luck
 
Budnicks said:
I don't see any real issues
especially if it has a good hot ignition system,
good distributor with the proper curve, advance restrictions
{& use an adj. vacuum advance for the street, some might suggest too}
some quality low ohm resistance wires, the proper heat range plugs &
the carb is "actually tuned properly"
jetted, proper size air bleeds/emulsion tube/idle circuit jets
the proper color/size accel. pump cam & discharge nozzles etc.

with a single plane or a newer Dominator

I doubt it'll be a bolt on & run fine, out of the box {you my get lucky}
IMO it'll need tuning & tinkering, maybe even
some dyno or track time to get it perfect...

Your camshaft choice & your converter selection
will probably dictate how "cantankerous" or "drivable"
it may actually be, just make sure you keep it cool,
have fresh cool dense air not under hood heated air &
has plenty of fuel supply....

Kind of basic performance 101 stuff...

If you don't have any books on tuning the carb & ignition properly,
I'd suggest that you get one, learn the ins & out of them both...
1st Before you do your build, it'll be money well spent...

good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks......
 
ive got a 62 dart with a 500 with eddy victor max heads and old school exhaust and x-ram with 2 matched 600 holleys from rick walker high stall conv 4-31 gears in the rear with cheater slocks other than the spacers on the heads making the carbs sit up higher making me use a scoop its a kick in the pants and sounds bad *** had to down play the cam to a schneider 550 solid as to get better idle but I cant wait to put it on the track
 
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