How Can They Do This So Cheap?

http://blueprintengines.com/index.p...ler-408-main/item/chrysler-408-base-bpc4082ct

$4k for a 408? Somebody explain this to me.

Cast iron heads, sure, but its got the build I want for my '73 SSP sleeper/cruiser.

Confused...

We sell a bunch of them with happy customers.
http://paceperformance.com/i-839638...eads-flat-tappet-cam-base-375-460-ft-lbs.html

It's an iron headed, OE type rebuild that happens to have a stroker rotating assembly.

When you order Complete rotating kits 1000 at a time...you can make things cheaper

the engine makes power/torque from the CID...

great street engines

i offer a nice member discount if you end up going this route.

They wrote back:
"We are able to keep costs down on our engines because of the quantities that we buy parts in and we have several parts made for us."

What intake is available for the magnum headed engine?

mmissile said:

What intake is available for the magnum headed engine?

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http://paceperformance.com/i-22724420-ed-7577-edelbrock-rpm-air-gap-magnum-intake-manifold.html

EDELBROCK AIR GAP IS MY GO-TO

There's a company in Houston called A Guaranteed Motors (AGM) and they did crank grinding for 35 bucks when everyone else was charging 75 and more. Their rebuilt engines were just so so but for a bone stocker, they were cheap too. The first time I walked into the place it like walking into a 3rd world country but a buddy of mine said they did great crank work plus they had a huge volume of work going on. Just had to wait for them to set up for a particular size stroke be it a 440 or a 383 etc based on what the guy told me. The finish was ok but I polished them anyways and they always hit the sizes I asked for. They are still around but now they charge 125 to grind a 440 crank....been probably 15 years since I had them do any work for me....

Very cool!
Nothing wrong with "Cast iron heads"!

blueprint is a quality company, and quality facility. We do tons of business with them, and great products. I haven't had a warranty issue for even a valve cover leak in 5+ years.

mmissile said:

What intake is available for the magnum headed engine?

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There are 4 intakes available for the Magnum head;

1 & 2; MoPar has a dual and single plane intakes.

3; Edelbrocks RPM

4; There are various aftermarket Chinese made units. There often seen as a dual head intake since they have bolt provisions for the LA & Magnum engines.
They are basically a RPM rip off.

rumblefish360 said:

There are 4 intakes available for the Magnum head;

1 & 2; MoPar has a dual and single plane intakes.

3; Edelbrocks RPM

4; There are various aftermarket Chinese made units. There often seen as a dual head intake since they have bolt provisions for the LA & Magnum engines.
They are basically a RPM rip off.

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Are either of the chrysler ones still avail new? and are either of those, NOT an air gap type?
OP was looking for a mag intake that has a short height and appeared stock. (via PM's) And i truthfully wasn't aware of any that aren't an RPM airgap, or an imitation of it.

That motor sounds like a deal. I had been thinking about a crate to replace my poly in my '63 Fury. From what I've heard so far anyway, the 360 block would drop in pretty much trouble free, mounts mate and bolt to the SB torqueflite housing. If anyone has done this great to hear or if what I'm saying is BS great to hear that too..

If they are buying by the thousands - which crank is it?
This is not an engine that is designed to be revved or driven hard. It's a cruiser at best.

Johnny Pace said:

Are either of the chrysler ones still avail new? and are either of those, NOT an air gap type?
OP was looking for a mag intake that has a short height and appeared stock. (via PM's) And i truthfully wasn't aware of any that aren't an RPM airgap, or an imitation of it.

Click to expand...

P4529116, discontinued

What is your reasoning on being a cruiser motor only? Descript sure seems to give another slant...

Johnny Pace said:

Are either of the chrysler ones still avail new? and are either of those, NOT an air gap type?
OP was looking for a mag intake that has a short height and appeared stock. (via PM's) And i truthfully wasn't aware of any that aren't an RPM airgap, or an imitation of it.

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The MP dual plane is a copy of the OE squarebore (68/69) and not an air gap.
And as mentioned, it is discontinued.

The M1 single should still be available.
The single plane has a gap under it. As it always did like its predecessor, the Holley Strip Dominator.
It has a little height. Would you like a measurement? It'll take me 5 minutes to do. If you want.

rumblefish360 said:

The MP dual plane is a copy of the OE squarebore (68/69) and not an air gap.
And as mentioned, it is discontinued.

The M1 single should still be available.
The single plane has a gap under it. As it always did like its predecessor, the Holley Strip Dominator.
It has a little height. Would you like a measurement? It'll take me 5 minutes to do. If you want.

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It was more for the OP. But I appreciate it. If its something I cant order new, it'd just be for giggles. OP ultimately decided a stock appearing engine is more his desire, and doesnt want the air gap, and doesnt want one with aluminum heads. So that pretty much takes every BP or ATK out of the equation lol.
I sent him to cme. I know they do some lower hp builds with LA cast heads.
Unfortunately my main stream engine suppliers dont have enough LA cores out there to keep making them.

moper said:

If they are buying by the thousands - which crank is it?
This is not an engine that is designed to be revved or driven hard. It's a cruiser at best.

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They utilize a scat rotating assembley. This engine is good for mid 12"s in a 3200 lb car. Hell of a street engine if you ask me. Not designed to be rung out to 7500rpm agreed...but its designed for reliability, not bracket racing.

Ron H said:

What is your reasoning on being a cruiser motor only? Descript sure seems to give another slant...

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Descriptions are made to sell engines. I'm a skeptic on most things so it's more of a "prove it" than an "I'll trust you". This will be a little wordy and it's only my opinion. I have not pulled apart a BP crate engine. But I am aware of many complaints with them from various threads online. Being a builder I know a lot of them have to do with the customer/installer, but there are a lot of them out there. So at some point something has to be BP's responsibility. In regard to the description - several things say it's not a great value package by my definition and perhaps a little creative...
The cast crank. The Scat crank is a notable piece. The Eagle is about 25% cheaper and about 50% weaker. It's not a performance piece. No offense to Pace but I'd want to know the part number of the crank used.
The "heavy beam rods". What are those? Factory rods are plenty beefy for this. Are they factory rods converted to full floating and with good bolts, or factory rods? Or lower price point I beams? Or real (and heavy) H beams? My money's on factory rods left with pressed pin arrangement and new stock-type bolts.
Stock iron Magnum heads. That explains the lower power figures and there is no way to add a larger camshaft with those because factory heads are very lift-limited.
The hypereutectic pistons. I love hypereutectic pistons in applications where they are applicable. The problem is the material is not designed to live with higher mean or peak piston speeds. The 4" stroke is a 19% increase in stroke, and the same increase in mean and peak piston speeds. The 4" stroke engines push the speed up to the safe upper limits of a hypereutectic piston. Think of it this way - you have one of these hyper-equipped engines in your truck. Expectation is low rpm torque. So you're pulling your trailer up a hill and a U joint lets go and the rpms go from 3500 to say, 6K before you can get off the gas. Or you stick this in the 4sp Charger, and when you dump the clutch and the same failure occurs and the rpm flies to 6500. In both cases you've exceeded the safe mean piston speed range (at least by my comfort level) without any ill intent. Longer-than-factory strokes really should have forged pistons. But forged are a bit more money and depending on the rod and piston combo, a cast crank may need Mallory to internally balance them. Those both add to cost.
The block. They mention that the block is sonic tested. Are the results included in the paperwork, or are they just saying they did it?
They say a dyno sheet comes with it. So you're telling me the incomplete engine pictured is assembled fully, run, and then the other parts stripped off before it's crated? My gut says this is a dyno sheet of a representative engine that was built and dyno'd. Not a big problem, but questionable accuracy of advertising and result.
It should also be said that any warranty does not cover install or removal, or freight, or problems they determine are from the install or use. So saying "it's got a warranty so it's all good" kind of incorrectly assumes those expenses and risk are not existent.

You're clearly an experienced engine builder, with a knowledge base beyond most, but i think you're being too critical of ALL crate engines with your description. This crate engine isn't meant to have everything scrutinized, or to be wailed on every weekend at a drag strip in a car with 4:56 gears. There are Race engines, and there are street engines. This is a street engine. I understand your point about over stressing components if you break a driveshaft...but can that not be said of every engine? especially one that is never intended to function at that RPM? Thats why we have aftermarket ignition systems with rev limiters.

I'm not arguing with your beliefs, or your opinions. just pointing out that just because this doesn't come with a super involved build sheet, and you don't know a part number of the cam bearings they used...it does not mean it's not reliable, or not a good street engine.

In my opinion..95 percent of customers that would purchase this engine, would never take it down a drag strip, would never even have an interest in knowing a crank PN, and would just install it, drive it, and have some fun on the side streets.

If you want something with forged internals, and good for 7500 RPM, and to know every single nut and bolt that went into it. Then you build one yourself, as you have the knowledge to do. Or you look at something with the components you're interested in.

Also something i'm going to point out... You can find anything you want to find on the internet. Including people who love crate engines, or hate crate engines. I have yet to see a RECENT example of a blueprint issue. Everytime someone blindly states that "blueprint has issues...google it" i ask that you look at the date on those post. Were there ever some issues? sure. Have I (that sells them regularly) had any in the last 5 years...no.

I can only speak from my experience, and my knowledge of their products. Again i'm not looking for a fight here. Blueprint just deserves a little credit, and I'll defend them in their purpose, and thats a great street engine.

I compare it to walking into a dealership and buying a car...Does the average consumer demand to know what Bearing tolerances the engine had during assembly before they drive it off the lot? No... In most cases they don't even know/care what rear end gears are in it. Thats a mass produced crate engine, vs a home built, or race build. Does its job just fine, with no issues, and with smiles on faces.

Johnny Pace said:

You're clearly an experienced engine builder, with a knowledge base beyond most, but i think you're being too critical of ALL crate engines with your description. This crate engine isn't meant to have everything scrutinized, or to be wailed on every weekend at a drag strip in a car with 4:56 gears. There are Race engines, and there are street engines. This is a street engine. I understand your point about over stressing components if you break a driveshaft...but can that not be said of every engine? especially one that is never intended to function at that RPM? Thats why we have aftermarket ignition systems with rev limiters.

I'm not arguing with your beliefs, or your opinions. just pointing out that just because this doesn't come with a super involved build sheet, and you don't know a part number of the cam bearings they used...it does not mean it's not reliable, or not a good street engine.

In my opinion..95 percent of customers that would purchase this engine, would never take it down a drag strip, would never even have an interest in knowing a crank PN, and would just install it, drive it, and have some fun on the side streets.

If you want something with forged internals, and good for 7500 RPM, and to know every single nut and bolt that went into it. Then you build one yourself, as you have the knowledge to do. Or you look at something with the components you're interested in.

Also something i'm going to point out... You can find anything you want to find on the internet. Including people who love crate engines, or hate crate engines. I have yet to see a RECENT example of a blueprint issue. Everytime someone blindly states that "blueprint has issues...google it" i ask that you look at the date on those post. Were there ever some issues? sure. Have I (that sells them regularly) had any in the last 5 years...no.

I can only speak from my experience, and my knowledge of their products. Again i'm not looking for a fight here. Blueprint just deserves a little credit, and I'll defend them in their purpose, and thats a great street engine.

I compare it to walking into a dealership and buying a car...Does the average consumer demand to know what Bearing tolerances the engine had during assembly before they drive it off the lot? No... In most cases they don't even know/care what rear end gears are in it. Thats a mass produced crate engine, vs a home built, or race build. Does its job just fine, with no issues, and with smiles on faces.

Click to expand...

This is a lively discussion, I'm glad its generated a lot of dialogue. I think I'm going to start a new thread on what I want to build (LA vs magnum components, stock looking like Johnny pointed out).