• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Exhaust Header Bolt -Leaking coolant

I is my suggestion that AFTER the coolant is drained below the level of the heads, and after removing the stud, to tap the hole to clean it up and remove the crud. Purchase new studs from a Mopar source for the correct location. NOTE THAT THERE 2 DIFFERENT THREAD SIZES...THE ONE IN THE HEAD IS DIFFERENT THAN THE EXTERNAL PART OF THE STUD (the part where the barrel nut screws over). When ready to assemble, I always use a LOCTITE product....a thread cleaning material followed by (my choice is Red hydraulic sealant or Red thread lock...all applied sparingly per instructions and installed with stud installer and tightened to 20 ft pounds torque. Loctite products are anaerobic sealants...they cure WITHOUT AIR. LOCTITE material is avaliable at most autopsies houses...NAPA is a good starting point. DO NOT USE TEFLON TAPE OR PIPE JOINT COMPOUNDS . If you use the LOCTITE PRODUCTS THERE WILL BE NO LEAKS BUT FOLLOW THEIR INSTRUCTIONS.....
But this is just my opinion.....I'm sure that there will disagreementstill.
Cheers
RJ RENTON
H2O last know was hydrogen and oxygen. Even with no coolant in the system there is oxygen. Whens this stuff going to cure?
 
Here is what an old fart like me has been useing for many years, before silicone was ever invented, before any of these ten letter, four syllable worded compounds were even developed, and it has always worked. If the threads are a little wet, it sticks and seals. If it's in contact with coolant or oil, it's not going to deteriorate. When it comes time to disassemble it's still soft. It's older than me and you can buy it anywhere.
View attachment 383860

Hmmmm...I would have never thought of using that product for that purpose. Love it for gasket sealant but admittedly that is a new use for it. Thanks for the tip...old man. ;)
 
I used Hylomar on my two leaking studs, as a matter of fact i use Hylomar on everything, even fuel. It allows re-use of old gaskets ! Even allows re-use of big block intake gasket with iron intake and heads.
 
I use permatex #2 on my motors like KK. Have used it with headers or manifolds. Last install was with studs on hooker comps. No drip and they come out easy when its time.
 
I've always used Permatex Ultra Black with great results. I have headers so instead of studs I have header bolts. I've had the bolts in and out several times over the years while doing service, upgrades, etc. and I'd wipe a fresh coat on the threads with my finger before putting them back in. I've never had a leak with this product or method...
 
I have never understood the concept of header bolts other than where clearance issues required their use.
 
I have never understood the concept of header bolts other than where clearance issues required their use.

I agree. I have to run a couple bolts on each header because the tubes cross in front of the bolt holes, requiring the bolts be started as the header is brought up to the head...And rather than having a mix of studs and bolts, I run bolts so it looks uniform
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top