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Re-torque Head Gaskets?

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EngineerDoug

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A quick & easy question this time - do the steel shim head gaskets need to be re-torqued after installation & engine break in? I intend to use Copper Kote on the gaskets, BTW.

Thanks!
 
I believe that they do need retorquing. The only gaskets that I know of that don't are those from Fel-Pro. There may be others, but not for steel shim gaskets.
 
68gtxman said:
I believe that they do need retorquing. ..............................
Click to expand...
I agree with ^^^^^^^^^. Definitely on a small block.
68gtxman said:
.................... The only gaskets that I know of that don't are those from Fel-Pro. There may be others, but not for steel shim gaskets.
Click to expand...
Lol, Others? ....maybe one of Lisa's ..........

 
I've built a lot of engines for others over the years and I doubt any of them ever retorqued.....and I've never done it on any engine for myself either. And steel shim gaskets should not be used with aluminum heads if that is the plan.
 
I agree I wouldn't think you would need to re-torque steel shim gaskets. What about composition head gaskets? Back in the 60's early 70's Mopar offered embossed copper head gaskets that looked like steel shim head gaskets for aluminum heads. Does anyone make them anymore?
 
Years ago they were said to need it. The only time I retorque now is with aluminum heads, and/or when brand new head fasteners are used. If the surfaces are in good shape, the threads are clean, and the torqueing process is good (I got to three steps) the big blocks have 5 bolts around each hole - they should be fine.
 
what i do on torquing is start at 25lbsft. i keep repeating the 25lbsft until there is no bolt movement and every fastener is the same. this may take several torqueings but ensures a solid base to work from. then i step up the torque on the fasteners and never exceed the rated torque value of the fastener and always use a lube on the threads.
 
I've used steel shim head gaskets on iron and aluminum heads, and never had a problem. I know of several people who have used steel shims on alum heads, and never had an issue. Just need to use plenty of copper coat or Hylomar. And I re checked the torque on iron heads once after break in, and there was no change. Most of us use aluminum intakes on iron heads without a problem. Seems to be a concern with using alum heads with a steel shim gasket. Different expansion rates can eventually cause a prob, but I've never seen it. It does seem to imprint the aluminum.
 
I have never retorqued and I have used those shim gaskets for a long time on different engines and engine makes. I'm using iron heads and have always sprayed them with copper coat. Never a problem.
 
They were built factory with shim gaskets dry, Never retorqued. That being said I learned a trick long ago with head gaskets. After torquing all fasteners crack each one loose in sequence and retourqe. You'll be amazed how much more rotation of the wrench will be required.
Doug
 
dvw said:
They were built factory with shim gaskets dry, Never retorqued. That being said I learned a trick long ago with head gaskets. After torquing all fasteners crack each one loose in sequence and retourqe. You'll be amazed how much more rotation of the wrench will be required.
Doug
Click to expand...
I knew someone on here stated they did it that way. Did the same on my build with the felpro gasket. You will get more the second time around.

If you would just torque them once, let them sit for a day, and retorque, you'll get a little more.

And like stated before, torque to specs and forget about them!

Aluminum to aluminum were a retorque at the dealerships I've been around. So we're aluminum head to cast block. (Part of the service requirements) Never saw any retorque specs for iron to iron.
 
Thanks, guys. The factory gaskets that were in the motor were steel shim, and these were never retorqued - so it stands to reason that retorquing is not necessary.
 
dvw said:
After torquing all fasteners crack each one loose in sequence and retourqe. You'll be amazed how much more rotation of the wrench will be required.
Doug
Click to expand...

...which is why it's a good idea to retorque. I don't typically do iron because after trying a couple times there was not much change. But after heat cycling aluminum heads a couple times - they are much different than the first time.
 
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