• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Electronic Ignition

Crane cams hi-6 cd ignition.
Pros- hotter spark allows wider plug gaps for more power and efficiency.
It has rev limiter with dials, protects over rev from driveshaft or u-joint breaking at high rpm.
Completely digital cd ignition, easy to wire up with clear instructions.
Eliminates ballast reisistor and the messy Chrysler ignition wiring.


Cons- a little pricey, and that's about the only con I can think of.

I've been running one with a crane cams lx91 ignition coil for 4 years now, not one issue, starts on the first bump of the starter every time, I noticed slightly better fuel mileage and a smoother idle, and better throttle response.
 
What is wrong with the good old Mopar Electronic Ignition with the orange ECU unit? I could see upgrading to aftermarket system if you were racing and changing gears at 8000. Chrysler engineers were pretty smart. Reliability, accuracy, and high spark energy were all hallmarks of the original system, and over the years, the system has been refined with better and more modern electronics.
 
We routinely did these just for the ease of it. Install the electronic conversion setup & change to an earlier TQ.
 
If you want a factory look get the conversion kit from Mancini.I also recommend the up grade to their billet distributor for long term durability.Remember the lean burn TQ has no provision for hooking up the vacuum advance hose.Just a thought..
 
If you want a factory look get the conversion kit from Mancini.I also recommend the up grade to their billet distributor for long term durability.Remember the lean burn TQ has no provision for hooking up the vacuum advance hose.Just a thought..
I am looking for performance, but would like to keep the factory look the best I can.
 
Summit Racing electronic conversion...................
 
Small block, 360

http://paceperformance.com/i-238406...y-to-run-electronic-distributor-blue-cap.html
or
http://paceperformance.com/i-238406...dy-to-run-electronic-distributor-red-cap.html

both are ready to run type units that replace the OEM ballast, and ECM. these are a thousand percent the way to go vs messing with anything else in my opinion. Assuming this is a cruiser, opposed to a race car.

If you would ever consider a fitech or sniper in the future, get the billet unit, as it can be converted to work with those EFI kits while utilizing their timing control.
 
http://paceperformance.com/i-238406...y-to-run-electronic-distributor-blue-cap.html
or
http://paceperformance.com/i-238406...dy-to-run-electronic-distributor-red-cap.html

both are ready to run type units that replace the OEM ballast, and ECM. these are a thousand percent the way to go vs messing with anything else in my opinion. Assuming this is a cruiser, opposed to a race car.

If you would ever consider a fitech or sniper in the future, get the billet unit, as it can be converted to work with those EFI kits while utilizing their timing control.

Thanks to everyone! I appreciate everyone's input!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top