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Rocker arms

the rollerized harland sharp set-up is matched parts. they use a special shaft to hold up to the extra pressure that needle bearings run at, and 7/16" adjuster screws; pretty sturdy for alum. a bushed or unbushed rocker distributes the load better, but i don't think they're necessarily made better or stronger. i think the rollers coming apart is more of a problem with the chinese stuff. if rollerized gives you heart burn then do the steel bushed comp cams. i know some engine guys like the PRW comp cams clones. keep in mind that the comp cams type stuff uses a ball & ball push rod and the adjuster has an oil feed groove that needs locate with the oil feed hole in the rocker.
 
lewtot184 said:
cranes aren't bushed. suppose someone could bush them. never broke a crane but have seen indy's break. i think both are/were made by Dove.
Click to expand...
The one rocker that I pulled off and looked at "without my glasses on" actually had a bronze bushing in it. I guess it was a repair.
I pulled a couple more off and noticed uneven wear inside. The difference now that I see is the cranes have anodizing inside. Hughes are natural.
Whats up with the wear in the pics?
Some showed no wearing of the anodizing at all.

20170102_185647.jpg 20170102_185657.jpg
 
a "bushed" crane would have to be a repair. the wear pattern you have doesn't look bad to me. if the hole in the rocker is larger in diameter to the shaft then the wear pattern should be more pronounced in the lower half of the fulcrum point. yours look like the rocker fulcrum hole may have a tighter clearance. measure the hole and shaft to find out how tight the parts are running. restricting oil to the rockers may cause a wear issue; especially with high spring loads. keep in mind that the factory restricted oil to the shafts by design at the #4 cam bearing and the oil feed holes in the #4 cam bearing journal. heavy roller springs need oil and oil is the only coolant they get.
 
I broke two Crane, gold rockers on a .575 lift, solid roller cam. I was using on the street mostly. Cracked, then broke in half around the rocker shaft. I currently run Crane ductile iron (adjustable) rockers, and have not had any problems.
 
Is there not a oil hole in the top rocker?

Also the wear would be at the bottom on the hole more than the top. That's where the pressure is exerted.
 
khryslerkid said:
Is there not a oil hole in the top rocker?

Also the wear would be at the bottom on the hole more than the top. That's where the pressure is exerted.
Click to expand...
Its the same rocker flipped around.
 
Ive had Crane Gold 1.6 ratio on my car for 17 years never had a problem.
 
I,ve used PRW rockers on a few s/blocks, 1.5 ratio full roller,aluminum. many hard miles no issues and very affordable. Anyone else tried them?
 
I've run a set ProComp stainless rockers for years. The adjuster hardware that came with them was junk. After breaking a couple of them, I called procomp; to my surprise they admitted they had a problem, stepped up and sent all new adjustable hardware (studs and nuts) that were a different design at no cost. They've been holding up fine for years now. .573 lift Solid flat tappet, 350 lbs open pressure IIRC.

These.....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mopar-Chrys...ash=item43ed85f25c:g:LsoAAOSwoi1X8y-~&vxp=mtr
 
!'ve run bushed Comp Pro Magnums for 5 years now on 3 different cams including the current solid roller with .640 lift, some 200 plus drag runs and considerable street driving with zero issues....They are virtually indestructible, since I've never broke a single piece and you can run full oil pressure/volume up to the rocker shaft since they don't leak oil like the needle roller varieties.....they are also a heck of a bargain compared to some of the roller setups...
John B.
 
Following.....just found 2 bad crane gold rockers on my motor. I'm now shopping for a new set myself, I wish I could get more feed back on the Hughes product as their price point is better for my budget
 
Bob I have been running these Hughes roller tip rockers since 2011 on the solid flat tappet I run and they have been great. This was last year when I replaced my valve cover gaskets and they still look great and hold their adjustment real good. I only adjust the valves once a year and most the time they are still right on. I would use the Hughes again without thinking twice. Good luck which ever you go with. Ron

413103746.jpg
 
I have the same ones on the hydraulic roller from my GTX. Never had an issue with them but this motor is a different animal.
When I bought them originally, I think I paid about $450.00 for them.
The price has almost doubled since!

11476.jpeg
 
Ski 61701 said:
You might want to google Dove rocker arms. I believe they make them for Hughes

http://dovemanufacturing.com/chrysler_big_block.html

Might save you some cash
Click to expand...
If I remember correctly I talked to Dave Hughs when I purchased a set of the later design rockers, anyhow they said that these extrusions are made by the same company that extrudes the arms for the TOP 2 rocker suppliers and are cnc'd by the same, now to me that translates into jesel and t&d but that's my take on what was laid out and that simple strait forward. Anybody?
 
cryplydog said:
Someone should call hughs engines and ask Dave but be ready cause he's kinda "cunty".
Click to expand...
I don!t have a bunch of miles on my 505 yet, but like the latest style hughs rockers on my solid roller, raised port heads. altho they were a bitch getting the clearance and pushrod tunnels right "to me" , never having done a wedge before. And, Dave and their shop foreman have been great to deal and talk to, one of the other guys, not so much, just a little crabby .
 
too bad RAS isn't making there SS rolers anymore...might be a bit heavy compared to the aluminums but u wouldn't have to worry about them..I bought 1 of the last sets they had at 1.6 ratio that sold on my 71 barracuda...(they didn;t have 1.5 anymore) and I still wish I had taken them off......
 
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