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An alternative to the venerable Torque Strap

Centerline

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The guys who run later Mopars, 66 on have an easy mod they can make to the driver's side motor mount that eliminates the need for a torque strap. Our mounts are a little different and don't as easily lend themselves to that exact mod. My installation will not lend itself easily to a home made torque strap because my AC compressor will be in the way, so reinforcing the motor mount seems the sensible way to go.

After spending some time reading how the later mod is done (link here: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=auldkin3miv7996f2auvtiec91&topic=13216.0 ) I decided to make my own version for use on the 440 going in my '64 Polara. The last thing anyone needs is to have their DS motor mount look like the one that was on the 383 I pulled out (top) when compared to the new one below:

IMG_5625a.JPG


The solution I came up with is to add a 1/8" plate with grade 8 bolts welded to the plate and going all the way through the mount to basically sandwich the rubber similar to how the later mod is done, but tailored to our mounts. Here's the plate with the appropriate holes drilled. The two holes in the center are for the motor mount bolts. The holes at the corners are for the 3/8" grade 8 reinforcing bolts.

IMG_5626a.JPG


After the bolts are welded here's how it mounts on the new motor mount.
Bottom side:
IMG_5628a.JPG


And top side:
IMG_5633a.JPG


Once the nuts are tightened the rubber section that tends to come apart during hard acceleration is now sandwiched between two steel plates by grade 8 hardware and should not come apart. This mod does raise the engine by 1/8" but that is nominal at best and there is plenty of adjustment available to compensate for this difference.

IMG_5632a.JPG


Disclaimer: I do not recommend this mod for "race" use. Its strictly a street mod. If you're going racing at least add a torque strap and/or spring for Polylocks or solid mounts.
 
Guess I was ahead of my time.. Went with a solid Moroso mount on both sides of my '68 in the late '70's. Racing at the time; but the mounts are still there.
 
good idea Centerline, but my intake will not allow for an eighth inch rise in engine, so i just put solid mount on driver side.
 
The guys who run later Mopars, 66 on have an easy mod they can make to the driver's side motor mount that eliminates the need for a torque strap. Our mounts are a little different and don't as easily lend themselves to that exact mod. My installation will not lend itself easily to a home made torque strap because my AC compressor will be in the way, so reinforcing the motor mount seems the sensible way to go.

After spending some time reading how the later mod is done (link here: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=auldkin3miv7996f2auvtiec91&topic=13216.0 ) I decided to make my own version for use on the 440 going in my '64 Polara. The last thing anyone needs is to have their DS motor mount look like the one that was on the 383 I pulled out (top) when compared to the new one below:

IMG_5625a.JPG


The solution I came up with is to add a 1/8" plate with grade 8 bolts welded to the plate and going all the way through the mount to basically sandwich the rubber similar to how the later mod is done, but tailored to our mounts. Here's the plate with the appropriate holes drilled. The two holes in the center are for the motor mount bolts. The holes at the corners are for the 3/8" grade 8 reinforcing bolts.

IMG_5626a.JPG


After the bolts are welded here's how it mounts on the new motor mount.
Bottom side:
IMG_5628a.JPG


And top side:
IMG_5633a.JPG


Once the nuts are tightened the rubber section that tends to come apart during hard acceleration is now sandwiched between two steel plates by grade 8 hardware and should not come apart. This mod does raise the engine by 1/8" but that is nominal at best and there is plenty of adjustment available to compensate for this difference.

IMG_5632a.JPG


Disclaimer: I do not recommend this mod for "race" use. Its strictly a street mod. If you're going racing at least add a torque strap and/or spring for Polylocks or solid mounts.

I like the idea and had given it a great deal of thought because I have a 512 stroker which is quite stout with about 590 h.p. This method would work great for me because the 1/2 thick girdle on the bottom of the engine lowered the oil pan proportionately and I had to raise the engine 3/8 of an inch to make clearance for the drag link. It dawned on me how much torque must be present to rip a mount apart even when a 450 pound engine is sitting on top of it. It occured to me that I'd rather have the mount separate rather than risk the possibility of ripping a mounting boss off a cast iron engine or worse yet causing a crack in the block. It does happen under certain conditions. I would rather find a secure extra mounting point on the block or head on the right side and tie the engine down to the cross member or k-frame. I'm not talking a chain here rather a proper torque rod somewhat isolated with rubber or poly disks, like shock absorber mounts. I'll always consider a split mount as the first line of defence against a cracked, split or damaged engine block, I spent too much to risk it. For those lacking the ability to fab their own there's all kinds of good torque rods on the interweb. Mine will run from a special bracket mounted via the upper oil pump bolts ( 2 x 3/8 Gr8 ) directly down to the face of the cross member of the k-frame and directly verticle. You can also find bolt holes on the back of the right head that will allow tie-down to the side frame rail.
 
Last edited:
good idea Centerline, but my intake will not allow for an eighth inch rise in engine, so i just put solid mount on driver side.
Nothing wrong with solid mounts, but everything I've read says they transmit a lot of engine vibration to the chassis. I'd be interested to here if that really is the case.
 
I like the idea and had given it a great deal of thought because I have a 512 stroker which is quite stout with about 570 h.p. It dawned on me how much torque must be present to rip a mount apart even when a 450 pound engine is sitting on top of it. It occured to me that I'd rather have the mount separate rather than risk the possibility of ripping a mounting boss off a cast iron engine. It does happen under certain conditions. I would rather find a secure extra mounting point on the block or head on the right side and tie the engine down to the cross member. I'm not talking a chain here rather a proper torque rod somewhat isolated with rubber or poly disks, like shock absorber mounts. I'll always consider a split mount as the first line of defence against a cracked, split or damaged engine block, I spent too much to risk it. For those lacking the ability to fab their own there's all kinds of good torque rods on the interweb.

With that much HP I would have done the same thing. My 440 will be putting out right around 400 HP and won't see the strip. I'm just trying to keep the engine compartment simple and uncluttered. Originally my car had a 383 with a home made turnbuckle type torque strap which was ugly and obviously didn't work since the mount was ripped in half when I pulled the engine. So my simple solution works for me, plus the price was right.
 
Nothing wrong with solid mounts, but everything I've read says they transmit a lot of engine vibration to the chassis. I'd be interested to here if that really is the case.
I vote YES for the vibration caused by solid mounts. I had one solid and one rubber installed for a few years to race. I couldn't stand the vibration and 'chatter' at the lights, so I replaced the solid for a rubber, and everything was quieter.
Solid mount = noise and vibration.
 
I ran a torque strap{home made} with a broken mount for a weekend years ago.steet racing 70 rr, 383 4spd, 4.10s and slicks.Young ,stupid and lucky,but I Pulled It off:thumbsup:
 
Just use a chain like real men did back in the day.
 
Guess I was ahead of my time.. Went with a solid Moroso mount on both sides of my '68 in the late '70's. Racing at the time; but the mounts are still there.
I haven't been able to find solid mounts for the early B bodies.
 
Centerline's modification is a good idea. A variation of that concept had been done by my brother and I, 30 years ago. Point is to allow the compression, without the separation.

Sounds like a bra advertisement.
 
We run a solid mount made to look like the original rubber piece. 850hp @3750lbs on a transbrake with out issue.
Doug
 
I'd be interested in some more detailed pics and components required for this modification.
360-600-6467
Thanks,
S5757S

I'd be interested in some more detailed pics and components required for this modification.
360-600-6467
Thanks,
S5757S

I'd be interested in some more detailed pics and components required for this modification.
360-600-6467
Thanks,
S5757S
Under 1962-1965 look for (Make your own toque strap) it's all there
Thanks
 
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