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My 70 Roadrunner Viper build

Just wondering, was it intentional that the trans tunnel was not a symmetrical curve?

See pic:
 
Just wondering, was it intentional that the trans tunnel was not a symmetrical curve?

See pic:

Looks terrible I know but no, it was only because the job was half finished. The finished opening was more symmetrical . I could have made the tunnel in more sections to follow the shape of the transmission like you would traditionally see, but I wanted to have plenty of room for wiring loom to pass down the rear of engine and come inside the car thru the top of the tunnel, purely for a cleaner looking engine bay.
 
Looks terrible I know but no, it was only because the job was half finished. The finished opening was more symmetrical . I could have made the tunnel in more sections to follow the shape of the transmission like you would traditionally see, but I wanted to have plenty of room for wiring loom to pass down the rear of engine and come inside the car thru the top of the tunnel, purely for a cleaner looking engine bay.

Ok, no biggie, was just wondering if it was for some special trans clearance or something.
 
The car is coming along nicely and I love the over all look and stance. You are hitting the nail right on the head with this one. Great Job.
 
A Dodge Charger R/T sold on Barret Jackson yesterday with the Viper motor and drivetrain along with the interior for $110,000. They said the dash had to be moved back 20" to accomondate the motor.
 
A Dodge Charger R/T sold on Barret Jackson yesterday with the Viper motor and drivetrain along with the interior for $110,000. They said the dash had to be moved back 20" to accomondate the motor.
Wow, 20 inches is a big shift. If I wasn't running a/c I reckon it would fit without touching the firewall. I have mounted radiator in front of radiator panel at this stage but will probably slide it back a little if I change radiator size. My dash is still in the stock location.
 
Wow, 20 inches is a big shift. If I wasn't running a/c I reckon it would fit without touching the firewall. I have mounted radiator in front of radiator panel at this stage but will probably slide it back a little if I change radiator size. My dash is still in the stock location.
This car had viper dash and interior
 
So earlier in the year I took the car to the Grand National Hot Rod show in Auckland and had the pleasure of being hosted by kiwigtx. I was lucky enough to take out 1st place in the Custom Unfinished Project division. Well since then I decided I needed to rework a few parts of the car. I had to do a similar modification to the rear of the trans tunnel as 747mopar did to his Charger. I needed more room for the driveshaft to move up due to the lowered suspension, with the snubber bolted on I only had about 1/8 clearance to the floor. I cut out the parcel shelf braces and cut the tunnel out. Then it was just a matter of positioning the section higher up and filling the gaps. I then decided it would be a good idea to make some new braces and lower bracket as the originals had been messed around with previously and I was never happy with how they looked. I made the braces out of some steel box section and folded up a new lower bracket to attach them to the tunnel / floor. Of course I had to put some speed holes in them too. I bent some washers around a pipe and welded these to the braces to secure the wiring loom . The top ends of the braces were welded to plates and then plug welded at original locations of spot welds. I also fitted brackets for the rear end of the console.
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Another issue I had since putting the car together was no power assist from the steering box. The box was a Rockauto rebuilt item. I couldn't afford a firm feel box at the time so went with a rebuilt one. In hindsight I should have just stumped up the dollars for a firm feel. Eventually I found the fault must be in the rebuilt box as the pump was producing good flow and pressure. Well after adjusting the valve on top of the box with no improvement, I pulled the steering box out and stripped it down. I couldn't find anything wrong and was scratching my head as to why it wouldn't work correctly. I decided to throw the box back together and when I got to refitting the metering valve back on the top of the box I noticed that the reaction rod or pin that controls the valve was very limited in its movement. Yep sure enough when the box was rebuilt they had fitted the rod upside down. So once this was corrected I put it all back together and it works perfectly. I wish I had noticed it before pulling it from the car to repair, I could have fixed it months ago. Pic is of the metering valve from top of box so we all know what I was trying to describe. The reason I should have bought a firm feel box is that this box even though it was rebuilt has a lot of play that I cannot adjust out. I think it would need some oversize balls to reduce play in the worm.
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The reason I should have bought a firm feel box is that this box even though it was rebuilt has a lot of play that I cannot adjust out. I think it would need some oversize balls to reduce play in the worm.
PG Hydraulics in East Tamaki, Auckland (about 3 miles from my home) rebuilt mine a few years back using the over-sized ball method. It has been marvelous to drive since then, and there is no noticeable slop when driving. It wasn't cheap, but a top job is worth paying for. :thumbsup:
 
Congrats on the trophy, a well deserved one for sure. I always like checking out the work in progress cars at the shows especially ones like yours where the owner isn't affraid to make it unique. Nice job on the floor, crazy how the mods just keep stemming off but that's what hotrodding is all about lol.
 
Congrats on the trophy, a well deserved one for sure. I always like checking out the work in progress cars at the shows especially ones like yours where the owner isn't affraid to make it unique. Nice job on the floor, crazy how the mods just keep stemming off but that's what hotrodding is all about lol.

Totally agree, I find every time I modify something there are about 3 other mods I have to do down the line to make it all tie together and work properly, but that's all part of the fun of building a car how you want it.
 
I have had some Hotchkis subframe connectors sitting around that I was going to fit for some time now, but I just didn't like the way they looked with a gap between the floor and connector. I ended up buying some US Car Tool connectors instead as when they are fitted they just look like part of the chassis. The only thing I don't understand about them is why they are stamped wider than the existing chassis rails. My only thought is that there are large irregularities in chassis rail widths. I cut the inside ends of each connector and notched them in with the press. I then welded them back together and cleaned them up so they looked like it was meant to be like that. I did weld them both sides right along the floor after grinding away at the profiles to make a nice fit and plug welded them to the rear chassis rails and front crossmember . I also slotted a hole for the emergency brake cable to pass thru.

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