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Panel Dome rheostat; how to remove?

Billccm

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Hi Experts:

The dash illumination on my 68 Road Runner is intermittent. Several dead spots on the rheostat. Hopefully DeOxIt will fix this as it has not let me down, yet.

Anyhow, can't get the switch panel out of the dash. I have the screws out (of course), and even pushing on the connectors from the rear does not budge it much. Took my 'professional' trim removal tools and tried to pry all around. The wiper switch side comes out maybe 1/4 inch, but the headlight side won't budge.

Any tips?

Thanks, Bill
 
I've had mine out a couple of times - once to rebuild the rheostat. It's a pain - the corners of the switch panel get hung up in the dash pad. Don't push on the connectors, you'll damage them. From underneath the dash I used the handle of a screwdriver to push out on the panel, between the switches; work the upper corners. Once free of the corners don't push the panel out too far, there's not a lot of slack in the wiring.

When replacing the panel, dab some graphite oil or silicone lubricant on the edges. Good luck.
 
FIXED! Not sure if it's temporary as there was lots of carbon and rust build up. Flushed the rheostat with my trusty DeOxIt several times and ran the wiper contact while looking at an 'analog' ohmmeter. It has one near dead spot near max brightness that glitched the ohmmeter needle slightly, but cycling the wiper and spraying cleaner seemed to make it better. Dash lights working for now.

This is one of the occasions that the factory service documentation is useless. Under 'headlight switch replacement' it says it must be performed from under the dash, pull the knob out and release, etc, etc. Obviously just some generic text left over from other vehicles.

Removal of the panel was painful. I ended up with FOUR butter knives all near the corners of the headlight switch area. I made right angles to push back the dash foam with butter knives, then used my 'professional' trim removal tools to pry.

Thanks for the help! Take care, Bill
 
I'm in the process of looking for the spring so I can take a shot at fixing it myself.
 
I just received my 'rebuilt' headlight switch and dimmer rheostat. Looks like new!

I have cleaned the dash pad with Simple Green and soaked the heck out of it with 303 Protectant. I wonder if I should lube up the switch plate with 3M silicone paste to aid in installation? Anyone have any tips on getting this back into the dash?
 
When replacing the panel, dab some graphite oil or silicone lubricant on the edges. Good luck.
Did you connect the harnesses before, or after installation of the switch plate? Thanks for any help!
 
Well, the switch pod is back in the dash. B Body expert JimKueneman was correct in that the switch pod will not, and cannot go back into the dash with the dimmer installed. One item that Jim did not run into that I did was this is also true (in my case) for the headlight switch. This switch pod would not go into the dash (nor would it come out) unless the headlight switch was removed.

After frustrations trying to install the headlight switch from under the dash, I got Roadkill creative. Took the smallest ZipTie I had and wrapped it tight across the rocker. This wedged the switch perfectly in alignment with the screw mount holes. A 8 inch self magnetized Philips screwdriver and I was done! Cut the ZipTie on one side and using a dental tool fished it out of the switch. Sounds RoadKill stupid, but it worked. See pictures.

20170428_210709.jpg 20170428_210713.jpg 20170428_210716.jpg
 
While it looks the same, the '68 must be different than the '69, because I can get mine in and out from the back side.
 
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