Is The Cross Ram intake manifold street-able

I Run a xram on the '64 hemi. Runs great, doesn't idle worth a crap. Not to get too far in the weeds here. Build dynoed at 650 hp. I run a 727 w 3:55's... but I'm not a mile high, so you may want to query some local old mopar guys... good luck.

8 year old post... Yikes!

Good info!

Okay, I'll bite on this 8 year old post in case somebody is still wondering about running this manifold on the street. I have run the factory crossram on my car for the past 6 years, first with 750 Edelbrock carbs and then with 500 cfm carbs. The motor is a 440 with 10:1 compression, a mild hydraulic cam (235 Duration @ .050, .507" lift and 108* LSA). The heads are original max wedge, ported/polished and the manifold is port matched to the heads. Msd6-AL box with an MSD Pro-Billet distributor (16* initial and 36* in by 3,000rpm). The car has an A-833 4 speed and a Moser 8.75 rear with 3:91 gears.
The carbs are set-up with manual chokes but I rarely have to use them here in Northern California. Normally, I hit the throttle once and it fires on the first or second revolution. I keep my foot on the throttle a bit for 30-60 seconds and then it settles down to a nice 950rpm idle.
Since I started tuning with A/F gauges I find myself messing more with the mixture screws trying to get the perfect settings and the metering rods/jets trying to get the perfect cruise and WOT A/F. The perfect numbers are elusive, more because of the poor quality of our 91 octane "premium" fuel than anything else. Funny thing is that after all the rod/jet/screw changes, the car runs best with the stock Edelbrock settings!
I drive my car a lot, usually 4-5 times a week and it hasn't been a problem in 6 years and thousands of miles. It ran fine with the 750s and fine with the 500s.
As far as the bling factor, if you want a lot of attention when you open the hood, a crossram will make it happen. I like educating young guys who look at my engine and have never seen anything like it. The best remark I ever got at a show was a teen who said, "Man, that's like 4 times bigger than my Honda motor."

Which did the motor like better the 750's or 500? I'm thinking of adding X-ram to mine but think the 500's are two small for a large motor/cam. I used to run (2) 750's on a tunnel ram and it ran great on the street.

Let me know which you liked better and if you ran either at the track?

I really like my 440 +0.30"over with original MW stage 2 crossram intake, 10.5 to 1 comp, 509 old school DC cam, original set MW cast manifolds, 3" X pipe with dumps in front of rear axle, and 750 Edelbrock/AFB 3705 carbs. It has the dual choke cable set up but you never have to use them as just 1-2 pumps of the pedal and it fires off cold. No pedal to start hot. No gas dilution in the crankcase either. Its great for weekend cruise ins and runs really well. I'm only running a 3.23 LS diff but its very drivable with the NP833 4 spd. It draws a lot of attention at cruise ins and local car shows and sounds great. The local Chevy guys made a point to tell me its one of the best soundng street cars in the area. All I can say is go for it.

Tempest 455 said:

Which did the motor like better the 750's or 500? I'm thinking of adding X-ram to mine but think the 500's are two small for a large motor/cam. I used to run (2) 750's on a tunnel ram and it ran great on the street.

Let me know which you liked better and if you ran either at the track?

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Just what you'd expect; 750s had a bit better top end, 500s are a bit sharper in normal street driving with better mpg, which averages about 10. This is a street car and I haven't run it at a track. If I had built it as a race car, I most likely wouldn't be using a crossram...

We did a 528 Hemi in my brother's 65 Belvedere.This car only sees street use so 500 Edelbrocks were used along with a mild Hydraulic cam.It starts, runs, and is very drive-able.No overheating or loading up in traffic.It's virgin outing was a 100+ mile round trip car show.

Word of caution when you torque intake RE-torque until PAPER gasket is compressed, it could take a day or two. I know you want to get it running. On Max wedges you may not have to remove carbs? Friend almost lost his Hemi by not doing this. I re-torque mine every spring after sitting all winter.
If you run 4235/4236 Holleys, Hemmings Muscle Machines had an article "idle work" by Jeff Smith about Holley's. Was fouling plugs at idle until I did this mod to the 3116 carbs. Can't up load the article from my computer, get error message file to large. I've emailed it to people. I'll email if anyone wants it.
The Hemmings Muscle Machines article is in December 2015. I did this modification to my 3116's and stopped fouling plugs. Drilling holes in the brass set screws is tough. If anyone is going do this I will explain how I did it after breaking several .032 drills.

Meep-Meep said:

I ran a Max in my 68 Road Runner back in the 80's without problems. It had the stock small dome pistons (11.5:1?), Holley 600 DP's and a 4 spd with 3.55's. The Holleys were jetted stock (66 x 76) or one size smaller on the primaries and used the 218 pump cam in the primaries. The cam was an old Cal Cams regrind...I wanna say .514/.538" and 320 deg advertised. Anyway, all I was able to do was 12.90's at 110 MPH on hard Big O 14" street tires feathering the throttle until I got half way into second. All that thing did was spin the tires, but it was fun!!

I traded my good running 383 straight across for the Max Wedge - ahhh, those were the days. It was running but the guy didn't know what was inside, so after I got it home I disassembled it and found it had been honed and polished to the point of no return. So without any money to do anything I just slapped it back together with new rings and bearings and hoped for the best. The pistons were .011" to the wall and the rods and mains were checked with blue Plastigauge - because the green stuff only goes to .004" and was still round!! The blue stuff said clearances were at .006". It idled at 1200 RPM and sounded like a diesel when it was cold. The hot oil pressure was 60 PSI with the same pump that was running 95+ PSI on my 383. Oh, the good news is I still have the engine (minus heads and intake) and the car it was in. After 20+ yrs of resting it will live again in my recently purchased 69 RR (or something else) but with proper clearances.

Sorry to ramble, but this thread triggered some good old memories.

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I remember it well

My '62 sedan was a fairly mild 440 with a A&A repop cross ram and two 500cfm Edelbrock carbs with manual chokes. It was cold blooded at start up but very streetable when warmed up.

I hear ya ^^ I like to run the engine a bit above idle till the temp gauge starts to move.Other than that it runs and drives just fine.

I run mine all over the place and even starts fairly easy in freezing weather. I run 650s on mine. Yes takes a few minutes to warm up but well worth wait. 4.10 dana, 590 lift cam and all. I dont like the 3500 stall on street though and will change that out

friend of mine has a 63 fury with a 440 and an A&A x-ram with a big solid roller runs great on the street ,im running a 500 with two holley 600s a schnider 550 solid 4-30s 3800 stall conv and it should be a beast but streetable the cam guy wanted to sell me a bigger cam but I wanted a lower idle