• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Brake question

Sonny

Sonny

It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
Local time
3:29 PM
Joined
Jan 19, 2017
Messages
1,300
Reaction score
403
Location
Florida
I only have brake fluid coming out of the driver front bleeder. What's more likely? Bad distribution block or 3 wheels completely locked up? Been only braking on one wheel since I got it a month ago. Replaced master cylinder today and the pedal is pretty hard. Thoughts? Note the driver front wheel that bleeds is at the top of the block.
 
Sonny said:
I only have brake fluid coming out of the driver front bleeder. What's more likely? Bad distribution block or 3 wheels completely locked up? Been only braking on one wheel since I got it a month ago. Replaced master cylinder today and the pedal is pretty hard. Thoughts? Note the driver front wheel that bleeds is at the top of the block.
Click to expand...
I should add that the car was in storage for a very long time. I think around 20 years before I got restored.
 
Sounds like the wheel cylinders or calipers/pistons are seized and the fluid has nowhere to go.
 
You only have fluid coming out of 1 of 4 breeders? Sometimes it takes a bit to bleed the air out. Do you get air out of the other 3? I'm assuming not
Is the one that gets fluid the closest to block.
Brakes suck, there's never usually a quick fix. Replacing 1 part turn into several.
If the block does need replaced, you'll be lucky if you can get the lines loose. Then you will be reflaring or replacing lines.
 
SOP after 20 years rebuild all wheel cylinders if they aren't rusted to **** on inside. You've done master that's good. While you have the wheel cylinders off flush the system. Rust in the lines?? Are they any good. inspect. You want good brakes why wreck a good thing.
 
If there is nothing coming out of the other bleeders, not even air, take the bleeder completely out and see if they're not just clogged up.
 
You could also have the brake hoses swelled up inside and blocking all the flow, I have seen it happen twice, 1 guy could not get rid of a pull when stopping I told him to change both front hoses and the pull was gone, the other time It blocked off the fluid completely. If there was a lot of moisture where it was sitting it could have the lines rusted up inside like Fran said. Pump it up and hold pressure start with the master, crack the line loose and see if you have fluid then go to the next fitting down the line and see if you have fluid and so on.
 
BeeKool said:
You only have fluid coming out of 1 of 4 breeders? Sometimes it takes a bit to bleed the air out. Do you get air out of the other 3? I'm assuming not
Is the one that gets fluid the closest to block.
Brakes suck, there's never usually a quick fix. Replacing 1 part turn into several.
If the block does need replaced, you'll be lucky if you can get the lines loose. Then you will be reflaring or replacing lines.
Click to expand...
No air, nothing. The pedal should be soft with new mc with some air but it's hard as a rock. Only moves about an inch if that.
 
khryslerkid said:
If there is nothing coming out of the other bleeders, not even air, take the bleeder completely out and see if they're not just clogged up.
Click to expand...
Took them out. Nothing.
 
Other guys said rubber hoses. Should have added that. They must be really old and I bet cracking. I'd replace them also, Money doesn't grow on trees what's more important money or your butt.
 
power brakes? maybe brake booster if the pedal wont move more than 1"
 
So l cut the metal lines and inspected the block. It's actually in good shape. So I'll replace a few steel lines and overhaul the front brakes and see what shakes out. If both work well it's off to the rears. Thanks for all the advice.
 
Bloopy knuckles, patience and a sailors vocabulary.
All qualities of a good brakes man
 
IMG_0529.JPG
Found it. Wheel cylinder is frozen solid! The good news: brake shoes and drums look like new. Gonna buy 4 cylinders and 2 new hoses tomorrow.
 
What about hose for rear axle? Didn't say if you have a dual master, if not that hose craps out no brakes after a few pushes.
 
Fran Blacker said:
What about hose for rear axle? Didn't say if you have a dual master, if not that hose craps out no brakes after a few pushes.
Click to expand...
Good point. I have a dual master, but now is the time to change that one too. Thanks!
 
Gentlemen,
I suggest that you switch to DOT 5 silicon based fluid. It will eliminate rust and corrosion that you show. The corrosion is due to the DOT 3 fluid absorbing moisture from the air. DOT 3 is hydroscopic...which means it has an affinity for moisture which will ultimately wind up in the lowest point in the system...the wheel cylinders. Many years ago, i converted my RS23V0A****** car to DOT 5 fluid then changed all components including hoses and the master cylinder after first flushing out the lines. I have not had a problem since.....
Bob Renton
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Encswsm
I have a Disk brake conversion question
Replies
4
Views
937
Encswsm
Encswsm
M
  • Locked
FOR SALE New Disc/Drum Master Cylinder & Distribution Valve
Replies
0
Views
467
mnewell337@gmai
M
B
Bleeding new brake system
Replies
5
Views
893
Boris7K
B
M
  • Locked
FOR SALE Disc/Drum Master Cylinder/Distribution Valve/Brake Lines
Replies
2
Views
865
mnewell337@gmai
M
4
HELP - ZERO BRAKES
Replies
11
Views
1K
Cranky
Cranky
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top