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Rear seats

BeeKool

BeeKool

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Decided I want to paint the floor in the Bee. What is the best way to remove the rear seats?
20170209_185908.jpg

They are original and I want to do it gently.

Also is the carpet supposed to be glued to the floor? Should I get something to deaden the noise? I think I'm just going to
Clean the floor and paint it with primer
20170209_185843.jpg
 
BeeKool said:
Decided I want to paint the floor in the Bee. What is the best way to remove the rear seats?View attachment 394732
They are original and I want to do it gently.

Also is the carpet supposed to be glued to the floor? Should I get something to deaden the noise? I think I'm just going to
Clean the floor and paint it with primerView attachment 394733
Click to expand...
You could get a sound deadening paint and lay it down, Eastwood has multiple options for sound deadeners

http://www.eastwood.com/autobody/sound-deadening.html
 
BeeKool said:
Decided I want to paint the floor in the Bee. What is the best way to remove the rear seats?View attachment 394732
They are original and I want to do it gently.

Also is the carpet supposed to be glued to the floor? Should I get something to deaden the noise? I think I'm just going to
Clean the floor and paint it with primerView attachment 394733
Click to expand...

Push back hard and slightly up about 10" in from either side ( at the very bottom of the front of the rear seat where you feel the steel bar ). Do one side at a time. There are metal hooks under the seat that grab onto a cross rod. You will know when you've released the seat because it will lift on the front. Undo the two bolts at the bottom of the seat back and lift it straight up. The back of the seat also hooks onto two metal type hooks. Do not glue the carpet in when you replace. Buy a quality preformed carpet that incorporates mass backing and it will fit like a glove held down only by the seat rails, rear seat and scuff plates. It is best to buy carpet with mass backing because it'll cost a small fortune to do it in decent sound deadner and you'll have to scrape the floor pan for adhesive style sound deadner.
 
I wouldn't paint it other than maybe encapsulation...of your looking to sound deaden and have thermal resistance get on of the dynamat knockoffs....I think I bought a 22-25 sqft roll for $100 (ebay). Works great!
 
Last edited:
Yatzee said:
Push back hard and slightly up about 10" in from either side ( at the very bottom of the front of the rear seat where you feel the steel bar ). Do one side at a time. There are metal hooks under the seat that grab onto a cross rod. You will know when you've released the seat because it will lift on the front. Undo the two bolts at the bottom of the seat back and lift it straight up. The back of the seat also hooks onto two metal type hooks. Do not glue the carpet in when you replace. Buy a quality preformed carpet that incorporates mass backing and it will fit like a glove held down only by the seat rails, rear seat and scuff plates. It is best to buy carpet with mass backing because it'll cost a small fortune to do it in decent sound deadner and you'll have to scrape the floor pan for adhesive style sound deadner.
Click to expand...
I was trolling the Eastwood site and liked what I saw, but your right they want a kings ransom for everything.
Thanks for the info.
 
Mike67 said:
I wouldn't paint it other than maybe encapsulation...of your looking to sound deaden and have thermal resistance get on of the dynamat knockoffs....I think I bought a 22-25 sqft roll for $100 (ebay). Works great!
Click to expand...
I just want to stop the surface rust. This is the original floor pan. I figured trunk is painted floor should be as well.
 
Like Mike67 said Encapsulating it is the best option if your not media blasting it. There's several brands like POR15 out there just scrub it good to remove any loose rust and paint it. Also the preformed carpet is the way to go, Trim parts from Summit proved to be a good product for me. Make sure to lay the carpet out well in advance of installation for it to regain it's shape.
 
747mopar said:
Like Mike67 said Encapsulating it is the best option if your not media blasting it. There's several brands like POR15 out there just scrub it good to remove any loose rust and paint it. Also the preformed carpet is the way to go, Trim parts from Summit proved to be a good product for me. Make sure to lay the carpet out well in advance of installation for it to regain it's shape.
Click to expand...
Where does one get POR15? Hopefully it's not priced like Lizard Skin.

Now also I imagine, would be the time to ohm out my turn signal/brake wires. Inspect the fuel gauge sending unit wires and replace the speaker wires.
 
You can likely find an equivalent at your local paint supply store. Rust Bullet, Por15, Chassis saver are just a few, just look for an encapsulater meant for painting over rust. Summit sells a few different ones along with Eastwood, I personally use Summit a lot just because they're always priced well and have unbeatable customer service.
 
BeeKool said:
Where does one get POR15? Hopefully it's not priced like Lizard Skin
Click to expand...
Down here its about $50 a qt. , you can get it at any paint supply or a swap meet vendor.
Warning if you use it, make sure you have everything you dont want painted covered! It does not come off and is as hard as a rock when dry. You cant chip it with a hammer!
Also make sure that you wipe away any excess on the can seal, if you dont you will never open that can again without cutting it. I take a rubber glove and put it over the can before i put the lid back on...
Rust bullet is usually $7-10 cheaper...
 
Chassis Saver is the same as POR15 and costs about $10 less per qt. Very good stuff.

Follow Mike's advice. Wear gloves. Get it on your hands and it has to wear off.
I put what was left into a Ball jar, covered the top with clear Saran wrap and then put the lid back on. You could do the same with the original can.
 
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A couple of tips about POR-15. I buy it in 1/4 pint cans, it's more expensive that way but you'll have less waste. Of course if you have a large area buy the bigger can, just have everything you want to coat ready. As soon as you open the can it will start to harden. Not right away, but in a few days it will have a skin on it. If you store it in a refrigerator it will slow that down considerably. Wear gloves when you use it, once it's on you skin it won't come off, a little lacquer thinner will help. Use the degreaser and acid wash as instructed for best results. I've used this product quite a bit and I'm pretty happy with the results. I've used it on the hardware on the back of our tandem grain truck and has held up very well, even with all the salt on the roads.
 
BeeKool said:
Also is the carpet supposed to be glued to the floor?
Click to expand...
NO
Should I get something to deaden the noise?
Click to expand...
Are you going to run Flowmasters or Magnaflows? If so, why bother.
Will you be driving it with the windows down?
Personally, I would not bother. These cars where never built to be all that quiet in the first place.
 
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