Heater box, do I dare chance?

BeeKool · Feb 9, 2017

So, I have the interior tore out of my Bee. I beleive the heater box and components all to be original.

What should I do? What parts should I replace if any? Its an A/C car and I intend on putting a Vintage Air or Classic Air R134 update under the hood.

Blower motor spins

Jeremiah · Feb 9, 2017

Now is the time to remove/clean/rebuild/pressure test the heater box and core, remove/clean/replace the under dash insulation, and remove/replace the wiper pivot seals. Detroit Muscle Technologies sells everything you need in the way of gaskets:

http://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/

For the heater bypass valve rebuilt kit I'd try NAPA. Classic auto air will sell you a heater control valve if yours is stuck (likely).

BeeKool · Feb 9, 2017

Figured. Thanks.
What about the blower motor? I fear a new one may not be as good as the original, then again......

wagonman · Feb 9, 2017

Take your time and LOTS of pics. If the blower still works bench test it and see how many amps it is pulling , better yet check the wave form with an ociliscope if yo have one. Seal kits are cheap and you can get rid of the mouse nests ect.

JimKueneman · Feb 9, 2017

Here you go. Lots of fun. I should have my core back from Glen-ray next week so I can finish up.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...net-500-project.114333/page-22#post-910578933

idrivemopar · Feb 9, 2017

I am still using my original blower motor from my 73, and it still works great. I did open the motor and checked the brushes, and they are worn, so I have a replacement set I purchased from a local shop that does electric motor repair in case it ever fails, other wise I just cleaned it up and repainted it and added just a touch of lubrication to the motor bushings.

JimKueneman · Feb 9, 2017

idrivemopar said:
I am still using my original blower motor from my 73, and it still works great. I did open the motor and checked the brushes, and they are worn, so I have a replacement set I purchased from a local shop that does electric motor repair in case it ever fails, other wise I just cleaned it up and repainted it and added just a touch of lubrication to the motor bushings.

I have not dared open it yet as I as not seeing how you hold the brushes back in the holders to get the armature back in. How is that done?

idrivemopar · Feb 9, 2017

On mine, the top comes off and just using a small screw driver I was able to move the brushes, and I didn't remove the rotor from the motor, I just want to look at the wear, same thing I did with my wiper motor. The brushes should have a pretty good sized copper braided wire that goes into the carbon brush, but you have to be careful not to rip it if you decide to take it all the way apart.

hawkeye · Feb 9, 2017

Jeremiah said:
Now is the time to remove/clean/rebuild/pressure test the heater box and core, remove/clean/replace the under dash insulation, and remove/replace the wiper pivot seals. Detroit Muscle Technologies sells everything you need in the way of gaskets:

http://www.detroitmuscletechnologies.com/

For the heater bypass valve rebuilt kit I'd try NAPA. Classic auto air will sell you a heater control valve if yours is stuck (likely).

Good advice. Pictures pictures pictures!!!
Heater bypass is a one year only. About all you can do is replace 1 small o ring. Box looks a lot harder to rebuild than it actually is. I would just clean up vacuum pods, their linkages and vacuum hoses and not totally disassemble. Just check out fan motor, if good put back in. If it craps out down the road, not a big deal to pull and replace.

Jeremiah · Feb 10, 2017

The FSM is a good reference for all things heater related. It's very easy to read and will provide you with an understanding of what each function of the HVAC system is doing in each setting. Once you understand these functions it is very easy to reassemble and check everything in the box.

The electrical diagram for the A/C controls is in that section as well.

For the fan motor I like to drill an 1/8" hole and use a needle type grease gun fitting to re-lubricate the shaft bushing. There is a piece of felt that absorbs the grease. My preference is a tan petro grease, nothing crazy like moly or marine grease.

Jeremiah · Feb 10, 2017

And the blower motor:

Superb Bee · Feb 10, 2017

I haven't done an a/c box in a while, years ago I had a chance to buy 3 NOS evaporators and I only have 1 left. (I think they fit 66 up to 70 b bodies).

But here is how I see it, if you are in there and can afford to do it right, then you must, because it sucks to do it again..

https://blog.drivenrestorations.com/2015/11/1968-1970-b-body-mopar-heater-box-with.html
I have done countless heat only boxes, and have one on the bench right now.

Heres the minimum I would do.
Evap coil/core- $250 new
Heater core- $200
dmt big kit -$120
bushing and hardware kit $25
paint-$20
Blower motor rebuild -$35

I blast and paint all linkages replace all the small parts, rebuild the motor, replace the cores and plumbing, rebuild replace all vac and valve parts, and a/c box done right normally costs me 600-850 to do myself. Heat only costs me half of that, I guess I'm lucky I don't see many a/c cars this side of the country, lol..

good luck, heater box, steering column, and dash board rebuilding is one of them skills you use once and never think about again, but need to become a professional to get it done the first time, lol...

65-440 · Feb 10, 2017

Go for it, I did my entire box. Was well worth it. Lots of pictures! I sand blasted and clear coated all of the metal parts, thoroughly cleaned the box. All new foam and rubber seals. Lubed the heater control cables. Controls move like butter now !!!

BeeKool · Feb 10, 2017

Thanks for all the good advice. I knew this was going to be a big can o worms. I may be able to shave a few bucks by taking the core and the evaporator to my radiator repair guy. He should be able to tank them and pressure test them. What say you?

I was unaware that '70 Coronets were one year only on the inside too.

Chargered · Feb 10, 2017

BeeKool said:
Thanks for all the good advice. I knew this was going to be a big can o worms. I may be able to shave a few bucks by taking the core and the evaporator to my radiator repair guy. He should be able to tank them and pressure test them. What say you?

I was unaware that '70 Coronets were one year only on the inside too.

Glen-ray radiators is awesome to work with. I had them re-core my heater core. The new heater core o-ring grooves are machined too deep so you don't get a very good seal with the o-ring.

BeeKool · Feb 10, 2017

65-440 said:
Go for it, I did my entire box. Was well worth it. Lots of pictures! I sand blasted and clear coated all of the metal parts, thoroughly cleaned the box. All new foam and rubber seals. Lubed the heater control cables. Controls move like butter now !!!

JimKueneman said:
Here you go. Lots of fun. I should have my core back from Glen-ray next week so I can finish up.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...net-500-project.114333/page-22#post-910578933

Holt sh!t, I sure as hell hope that wasn't meant to motivate me. That looks like it was designed by NASA! I was expecting it to be similar to one of my Dakotas. I think it is, except that by the 90s they had got all the vacumn lines into a single plug similar in looks to an electrical plug, eliminating any need for pics or memorization.
It doesn't look like I will have the car drivable this winter. If I get the heat box, Floor and brakes finished I will consider that good for a few months

JimKueneman · Feb 10, 2017

BeeKool said:
Holt sh!t, I sure as hell hope that wasn't meant to motivate me. That looks like it was designed by NASA! I was expecting it to be similar to one of my Dakotas. I think it is, except that by the 90s they had got all the vacumn lines into a single plug similar in looks to an electrical plug, eliminating any need for pics or memorization.
It doesn't look like I will have the car drivable this winter. If I get the heat box, Floor and brakes finished I will consider that good for a few months

It was to WARN you

No it scared me to death while taking it apart. Once I got it cleaned up and started assembling with the new gaskets it is very straightforward. I did not realize the pipes coming out of the side actually came out via the oring joints. Once that was realized it was easy.

YY1 · Feb 10, 2017

My factory system works great with a 134 changeover.

Even on 100+ degree days with 99% humidity

The RV-2 compressor and Airtemp system is responsible for the coining of the phrase "ice cold a/c".

JimKueneman · Feb 10, 2017

YY1 said:
My factory system works great with a 134 changeover.

Even on 100+ degree days with 99% humidity

The RV-2 compressor and Airtemp system is responsible for the coining of the phrase "ice cold a/c".

That's good to know cause I'm counting on that here in the desert!

BeeKool · Feb 10, 2017

Got it out. Was kind of a bitch. Not sure if I can get it back in without somebody on the other side of the firewall. Definitely glad I decided to do this, even if it adds 6 months to the project. (I can only use the shop in winter and summer, and beings this car is still a roller, makes it all the more difficult to maneuver from one building to the next) The ductwork was full of silicon sand from whenever the car was blasted and painted.

I labeled all the hoses, and linkages, took dozens of pictures and am ordering a gasket set. Hopefully there's not a backorder

Heater box, do I dare chance?

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