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Engine cuts out/stalls out

Northeast300

Northeast300

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ok, just before I was putting my '79 300 away for the winter (literally on my way to the storage facility) the engine cut out on me, it just shut off and would not restart. I had all other power and the battery is brand new. I replaced the coil and ignition module and let it run for about 30 minutes at idle in my driveway. The next morning it started fine and ran great as usual but about 20-30 minutes into my drive it did the same thing. After a couple of hours it started and I was able to get it into storage with the mindset that I would fix the issue in the spring....well it's coming out of storage at the end of March so I figured I would see if anyone here at FBBO has had this issue or heard of it and could possibly have any ideas?
 
I had an 81 PU that did that and it was the pickup in the distributor
 
How is your fuel line routed? Is it next to exhaust manifold? Sounds like vapor lock, fuel is boiling after everything is nice and hot...
 
Mike67 said:
How is your fuel line routed? Is it next to exhaust manifold? Sounds like vapor lock, fuel is boiling after everything is nice and hot...
Click to expand...

this is a new issue, I have never had it happen in the 2+ years I have owned it. I have driven it on days where it was 90 degrees without an issue, the engine temp always stays nice and cool well under 180
 
Does this era have the bulkhead connector?
 
Had a similar problem with a 1968 coronet. While under the dash oneday I saw the main hot lead to the dash cluster ark. I tightend it up and the issue went away. Not sure if this was the cause or the fix but it seemingly solved my problem..
 
Ign. coil going bad? Need more info,,I know, I know.
 
One time I had a cracked coil that acted like that.
 
Seen that happen on two late '70s Mopars with 318/360. Replace the distributor pickup.
 
bm02tj said:
I had an 81 PU that did that and it was the pickup in the distributor
Click to expand...
DeltaV said:
Seen that happen on two late '70s Mopars with 318/360. Replace the distributor pickup.
Click to expand...
Thats how they act. They'll get hot and stop working, just like turning the key off. After a cooling down period they'll work again.
 
Seems like the majority of advice is to replace the distributor pick up, so when I take it out of storage I will do a complete tune up including the distributor pick up! Thanks people!
 
i have a similar issue that stumped me for weeks....turns out it was the key switch! i would start the car and let go of the switch, but for some reason, it would kinda get fetched up on the way back to the run position...if i manually moved it there, no issues, if i let the key try to get it there, i would get the stalling....76 charger/daytona
 
First you need a voltmeter to check for proper voltage to coil. Turn on the switch, read 10 vdc, turn on key to start, should read 12.5 when cranking. If you no voltage or low check hardness red wire #10 to steering column.
Get a Timing light on spark plug wire for ignition spark. Check carb for fuel shots or spray starting fluid into carb. Just a few ideas you may have tired, good luck.
 
UPDATE: I replaced the distributor cap & pickup, plug wires and set the timing. I had already replaced the ignition module and coil. It's running smooth and strong now!
 
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