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Bars stop leak

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mopar73dge

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Has anyone ever used the Bars stop leak or other brand?
I have a very small seepage and drip between the water pump and the mounting area near the power steering bracket. After I disturbed the power steering pump bracket to replace the power steering pump on my 73 318. The bolt goes through bracket to the pump to adjust the belt. I never liked this design. I think some how the gasket was disturbed. I have replaced this pump some years ago and it only has about 7000 miles on it, A new pump is about 40.00 and 3 plus hrs. work with repaint, and the A/C compressor removal I want to avoid.

Any experience or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I hate that mess. It'll clog up all kinds of stuff. Someone used it in my /6 Belvedere and it took forever to get it out of the system but in the mean time, it continued to play havoc with the heater core and the t-stat. Can't remember if the bracket bolt goes into the water jacket or not but if it does, it may be what's leaking. If it does go into the jacket, pull the bolt and put some sealer on it and see if that helps.
 
I did find this. http://www.mechanicalcaveman.com/best-radiator-stop-leak-review-using-sealant/ I know the early Bars Leak was nasty stuff and stopped up a lot more than just the leak. A few years ago I used some (can't remember the brand though) for a leaking rear freeze plug and it did work for awhile until I could remove the trans and fix the freeze plug. The newer stuff does seem to work better and I do remember the stuff I used was a bit on the expensive side and included copper. I also didn't use the whole bottle. I lasted about a year and it started leaking again....
 
I worked for cadillac for about 10 years and we put it in every northstar and the old 4.5 and 4.9l,
the gm stuff is by far the best.
 
mopar73dge said:
Has anyone ever used the Bars stop leak or other brand?
I have a very small seepage and drip between the water pump and the mounting area near the power steering bracket. After I disturbed the power steering pump bracket to replace the power steering pump on my 73 318. The bolt goes through bracket to the pump to adjust the belt. I never liked this design. I think some how the gasket was disturbed. I have replaced this pump some years ago and it only has about 7000 miles on it, A new pump is about 40.00 and 3 plus hrs. work with repaint, and the A/C compressor removal I want to avoid.

Any experience or suggestions would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
I have used it for years without any problems.....I have a friend that has an engine rebuilding shop, and he puts a couple of bars leak pellets in every motor he rebuilds before he put the heads on. I think it is great stuff to stop small leaks...I like the pellets over the liquid in the bottle.
 
Been using Bars Leak for years with zero issues. I think like most products it can get a bad name from people that instead of replacing badly damaged parts just keep throwing in more and more stop leak. I add a bottle to the coolant on all of my rebuilds, it does wonders for frost plugs and exhaust studs and doesn't hurt a thing. The trick is to add only before you plan on running the motor for a good period of time. My last build had a couple very minor leaks at the frost plugs but sealed up in seconds, hasn't leaked a drop since. Like anything else it's how you use it.
 
Bars leak would'nt be too bad if you drove the car everyday and long enough trips to have everthing hot and circulated.

I remember a station wagon years ago. The owner just put some in his radiator and didn't really drive it too far. Brought it into the shop with a overheating problem. I found the whole bottle, that looked like hard tar, in the bottom radiator hose, right at the tank, blocking any flow.

I've used it in my own vehicle before but only used half of it. Had the cooling system up to temperature, added it while the coolant was flowing past the radiator opening, then took it out for a long drive. It works but you have to be smart about it.

Lots of guys swore by the copper powder but I never used it.

Try what Cranky suggested first. Put a little #2 Permatex on the threads of that bracket bolt.

Good luck.
 
khryslerkid said:
Bars leak would'nt be too bad if you drove the car everyday and long enough trips to have everthing hot and circulated.

I remember a station wagon years ago. The owner just put some in his radiator and didn't really drive it too far. Brought it into the shop with a overheating problem. I found the whole bottle, that looked like hard tar, in the bottom radiator hose, right at the tank, blocking any flow.

I've used it in my own vehicle before but only used half of it. Had the cooling system up to temperature, added it while the coolant was flowing past the radiator opening, then took it out for a long drive. It works but you have to be smart about it.

Lots of guys swore by the copper powder but I never used it.

Try what Cranky suggested first. Put a little #2 Permatex on the threads of that bracket bolt.

Good luck.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I will try the #2 permatex and some bars stop leak Time will tell.
 
They used to make a radiator stop leak called Egg White. My dad told me the name came from back in the old Model T days when they would put actual egg whites in a radiator to stop a leak. The egg white would cook into a thin coating on the inside of the radiator. You have to remember that the new products are more refined derivative of the same concept and are a hopeful temporary fix as opposed to addressing the real issue. They used to temporarily fix a lot of stuff with duct tape and bailing wire too, but that is not the preferred method.
 
When I have no other options at the time I use Alumi-Seal.The powdered form comes in a small tube.
 
I put a pellet of it in every motor I build. Borrowed that idea from my machinist about 20 years ago
 
Every engine I build gets a bottle of K-seal. Stops even the most pesky exh stud leaks. No special prep, you can leave it in or replace coolant after use. AMAZING stuff.
 
Go to GM dealer and ask for (Seal Tabs) there are about 5 tablets of them crush up 3 and put in radiator, they work great and don't clog up any thing. Have used them at home and at the track.
They are vegetable protein
 
Remove and seal coat the bolt first. Then if it leaks, my favorite sealer is Blue Devil. It works for all kinds of leaks in the cooling system - even head gasket leaks!
IMG_1435.PNG
 
brian6pac said:
I worked for cadillac for about 10 years and we put it in every northstar and the old 4.5 and 4.9l,
the gm stuff is by far the best.
Click to expand...
Every Cadillac sold since the late seventirs comes with Bars leak in the cooling system. GM used so much they bought the patent off of Bars leak. They started using it on the 4.6 I think. aluminum block steel liners and cast iron heads.
 
The stuff that looks like aluminum pepper is a LOT less likely to gum things up.

However, the top bolt and any bolt that goes through the H2O pump housing on that side I believe goes into the water jacket.

I agree that top bolt needing silicone every time you adjust the belt is a horrible design.
 
YY1 said:
The stuff that looks like aluminum pepper is a LOT less likely to gum things up.

However, the top bolt and any bolt that goes through the H2O pump housing on that side I believe goes into the water jacket.

I agree that top bolt needing silicone every time you adjust the belt is a horrible design.
Click to expand...

Well its all set now, bars stop leak(the one with the water enhancer) $12.00, was poured in. Sealer on the bolts and ran the engine up to full operating temp for 20 min all seepage has stopped and the radiator is flowing properly when cap is removed. Temp gauge perfect.
 
Car Nut said:
Try your heater, plugged mine up back in the day.
Click to expand...

The heater is fine nothing plugs up they wouldn't make a product after all these years that would plug up a free flowing heater core. The product is designed to stop a leak under pressure with a very hot metal surface 200 plus degrees, at the same time, such as a leaking gasket or crack.
 
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