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Brake pedal height on a 1963 Dodge

black64

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My brake pedal seems way to high in relation to the gas pedal. Leg lift seems excessive compared to my other cars. It has power brakes unknown manufacturer . I didn't do the conversion. I wondered if anybody has a picture of brake pedal height compared to the gas pedal on a 1963 dodge 440. Here is mine.

20161111_144851.jpg
 
I had just the opposite problem with the 64 Belvedere with power brakes --too low. I posted pictures if you do a search you will see them. What booster do you have?
 
I had just the opposite problem with the 64 Belvedere with power brakes --too low. I posted pictures if you do a search you will see them. What booster do you have?
Don't know the manufacturer of the booster it is an aftermarket it was on the car when I bought it. I haven't measured the points to check the pedal ratio yet. I know the manual should be 6:1 and the power should be 4:1. I was comparing to my 64 Plymouth and the pedal height is considerably less than the dodge. Booster in the picture and another angle brake pedal height to gas pedal. The pedal is almost the same height as the park brake pedal. Stop and go traffic would be painful.

20170115_172609_zpsyvvh6r2q.jpg 20161111_144859.jpg
 
I installed the Jegs B body power brake conversion and had the same problem.The pedal bracket inside the car that came with the kit was too long (several came in the kit.It was a flat bracket and not a rod) I wanted the pedal 1 inch lower (not only looked stupid but as you said a pain to drive.) So I took 1 inch off the bracket.OOPS too much. It made the pedal 3 inches lower.I should have made it 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter.But It worked well. The gas pedal to brake pedal was a easier reach.
 
My brake pedal seems way to high in relation to the gas pedal. Leg lift seems excessive compared to my other cars. It has power brakes unknown manufacturer . I didn't do the conversion. I wondered if anybody has a picture of brake pedal height compared to the gas pedal on a 1963 dodge 440. Here is mine.

View attachment 401003
That thing hanging on the key chain might not be looked upon kindly by the law, unless they're plastic. Yea pedal looks high.
 
I installed the Jegs B body power brake conversion and had the same problem.The pedal bracket inside the car that came with the kit was too long (several came in the kit.It was a flat bracket and not a rod) I wanted the pedal 1 inch lower (not only looked stupid but as you said a pain to drive.) So I took 1 inch off the bracket.OOPS too much. It made the pedal 3 inches lower.I should have made it 1/4 to 1/2 inch shorter.But It worked well. The gas pedal to brake pedal was a easier reach.
Yeah it probably is the rod length that needs to be modified. I just have to figure out where I want it to be positioned and cut to fit.
 
My brake pedal seems way to high in relation to the gas pedal. Leg lift seems excessive compared to my other cars. It has power brakes unknown manufacturer . I didn't do the conversion. I wondered if anybody has a picture of brake pedal height compared to the gas pedal on a 1963 dodge 440. Here is mine.

View attachment 401003

The brake arm for power and manual are different lengths because they individually have different pedal ratios. If the brakes work properly and you do not have to push it all the way to the floor remove the arm and modify it so it does yield the right pedal ratio and height of the floor or get another arm that's correct. Pedal ratio is the center distance between the pivot pin for the pedal and the pivot pin for the brake rod. Be sure to get it right because as you push the pedal, the brake rod raises and lowers it's angle so you need the rod half way between it's lowest angle and it's highest angle at rest. Get this wrong and you'll either experience binding of the rod or damage to whatever it's pushing on be it manual master cylinder or power booster. The right pedal for the job will yield proper angles and you shouldn't need a tilt bracket on the firewall side.
 
The brake arm for power and manual are different lengths because they individually have different pedal ratios. If the brakes work properly and you do not have to push it all the way to the floor remove the arm and modify it so it does yield the right pedal ratio and height of the floor or get another arm that's correct. Pedal ratio is the center distance between the pivot pin for the pedal and the pivot pin for the brake rod. Be sure to get it right because as you push the pedal, the brake rod raises and lowers it's angle so you need the rod half way between it's lowest angle and it's highest angle at rest. Get this wrong and you'll either experience binding of the rod or damage to whatever it's pushing on be it manual master cylinder or power booster. The right pedal for the job will yield proper angles and you shouldn't need a tilt bracket on the firewall side.
I know it has to be the right ratio of 4:1 for power brakes so the rod needs to be mounted to achieve the ratio and allow travel so the booster and m/c work and not bind. I hope it is just the mounting hole for the brake rod needs to be lower down on the pedal arm to achieve the right ratio and also lowering the pedal height.
 
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