Proportional valve

Montclaire said:

First, you do need a prop valve. Second, you would most likely be OK grabbing one from any 1973+ Mopar rwd passenger car at the junkyard, up through the 80s diplomats.

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Thank you for the info that helps alot

Montclaire said:

First, you do need a prop valve. Second, you would most likely be OK grabbing one from any 1973+ Mopar rwd passenger car at the junkyard, up through the 80s diplomats.

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I do not know the situation in this particular thread, But I do know that Manual disc brakes on front and drum brakes on rear does not always mean you have to have a proportional valve at all. I have none on mine , and it passed my " skid tires " test very well.........................MO

I think if you have a modern aluminum master cylinder it does become redundant to a point but for the minimal cost and effort I'd still rather use one.

It has a steel master cylinder I bought one and have to send it back because it has 9 fitting points and I only have 6 lol but it's supposed to work for a 73 charger .

Montclaire said:

I think if you have a modern aluminum master cylinder it does become redundant to a point but for the minimal cost and effort I'd still rather use one.

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Mine is a stock early 70's rebuilt master cylinder. I would say to try your set up without a proportioning valve and then install one if needed. Point is, just because everyone does it, that does not mean that it is neccessary. That goes for many "must do" everyone else does, way of thinking......................MO

Chrysler used to have a saying, "extra care in engineering." I like their way of thinking. If the front/rear balance is off, you'll find yourself facing oncoming traffic real quick on a hard stop.

Your car likely already has a built-in F/R balance but as time goes by, parts don't work like new, wheel cylinders get swapped for replacement parts with different capacities, etc. The prop valve helps to double check the variables and keep you safe.

Montclaire said:

Chrysler used to have a saying, "extra care in engineering." I like their way of thinking. If the front/rear balance is off, you'll find yourself facing oncoming traffic real quick on a hard stop.

Your car likely already has a built-in F/R balance but as times goes by, parts don't work like new, wheel cylinders get swapped for replacement parts with different capacities, etc. The prop valve helps to double check the variables and keep you safe.

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It may be that my set up ( every thing new or re-conditioned ) may be out of the ordinary. I was going to use an after market manually adjusted proportioning valve like most older street rods and cars, but found that I did not need it.
I think that in later years, with all the government safety regulations and warning light , the proportioning valves did get much more complicated. Along with that, it could be much mora complicated to select and install the right Prop. valve. To each- their own......................MO

Yes flypaper I am VegasCharger over on DC.com good call.

And thank you ODZKing for the plug.

I do have a proportioning valve from a '73 B Body BB 400 2bbl auto if you're still looking Doug.

'68 Charger said:

Yes flypaper I am VegasCharger over on DC.com good call.

And thank you ODZKing for the plug.

I do have a proportioning valve from a '73 B Body BB 400 2bbl auto if you're still looking Doug.

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I'm rebuilding mine I have another one coming for parts . If I need another one I'll keep you in mind.
Thank you

Doug Larsson said:

If I need another one I'll keep you in mind.
Thank you

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Please document your build and say where you got your rebuild kit from. Please post it here.

So I finally was able to rebuild my proportional valve. Musclecarresearch.com
is the place where I found to take it apart and order parts but I could only use 3 of the o rings. https://www.musclecarresearch.com/kh-86652-rebuild The other o rings were in good shape so I cleaned every thing up. Mine was stuck pretty good trying to get the small shaft out of one end I let it sit for 24 hours with liquid wrench it was still hard to get out and I bent the shaft trying to pry it out with pliers bad move. I should of put a bunch of washers stacked up so when I pried up on it I didn't pull at and angle and bend. That's why I was waiting for another proportional valve I could of put it in a jewelry lathe and dialed it in but I don't have one and a drill press worked okay but I only got it with in .020 not good enough for me lol (I'm a machinist ).
I pretty much followed there instructions and every thing worked well it works great no more leaks. One thing I saw as a challenge was putting the little c clip back on. I had some 1" od washers using as a puller on the other end of the valve I have a small vice and used one of those washers to squeeze it together enough to insert the c clip. I can't say this enough come up with a good plan when in stalling the c clip its small and can be lost real easy I put it exactly where I could see it real clearly grabbed my regular size needle nose pliers and carefully squeezed it on. I had past experience with these little buggers racing off road r/c cars for years.
So there you have it if you have any questions just pm me I'll be gladly to help.
Doug Larsson