Kickdown linkage question
- Thread starter Sonny
- Start date
wagonman
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 6:40 PM
- Joined
- Aug 1, 2015
- Messages
- 2,100
- Reaction score
- 1,762
- Location
- Deming New Mexico
You NEED the linkage for sure. It regulates line pressure, the trans will burnup if not there. If you dont have any look to Lokar for an aftermarket set up.
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
Thanks! Just replaced my 2 barrel with 4 barrel and intake and now it doesn't reach (working on an extension rod). Can you point me to instructions on how to set it up?
My 2 barrel had the forward end of the slot against the carb connector but pics I've seen has the rear of the slot at carb connector? Here's how I found it:
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
From what I read, you:
-Pin the gas pedal to the floor
-verify throttle is wide open
-push the kickdown all the way to the fire wall
-adjust rear of kickdown slot to the wide open throttle arm position
-make sure kd has its own return spring
-release pedal and make sure throttle closes.
Is that correct?
Thanks for all the advice. Great site!
-Pin the gas pedal to the floor
-verify throttle is wide open
-push the kickdown all the way to the fire wall
-adjust rear of kickdown slot to the wide open throttle arm position
-make sure kd has its own return spring
-release pedal and make sure throttle closes.
Is that correct?
Thanks for all the advice. Great site!
Lionized
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 4:40 PM
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2014
- Messages
- 1,998
- Reaction score
- 1,737
- Location
- Vancouver Canada
That may be one way to do it but that's not the correct way. At least, not according to the FSM.
-Pin your carb linkage/intermediate rod bellcrank with a 3/16" drill bit.
-Adjust the threaded ball socket at the top of the intermediate rod so that it clips to the bellcrank with very slight downward pressure. Connect the intermediate rod.
-Remove the drill bit then disconnect the clip, washer and return spring from the carb linkage rod.
-Adjust threaded portion of carb linkage rod until it just slips over the attachment point with no forward pressure on carb linkage.
-Reattach washer, clip and return spring then verify all movement of linkage does not interfere with operation of carb.
-Test drive and adjust as necessary.
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
Thanks! Not sure I follow "pin the linkage with a 3/16" drill bit". Do u have a picture?
Lionized
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 4:40 PM
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2014
- Messages
- 1,998
- Reaction score
- 1,737
- Location
- Vancouver Canada
There are holes in the bellcrank which connects the throttle rod to the intermediate rod. Disconnect the intermediate rod, align these holes and insert a 3/16" drill bit.
Do you own a Factory Service Manual?
Lionized
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 4:40 PM
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2014
- Messages
- 1,998
- Reaction score
- 1,737
- Location
- Vancouver Canada
This is a big block linkage but the adjustment method is the same. You can see the holes in the bellcrank in this photo.
moparsteve636
Well-Known Member
Simply leave a slight gap between the pin and the slot! No pressure on the pin! You'll be very close then drive it allowing the trans to shift, 1-2 shift around 15mph 2-3 shift around 22 mph!
furyus
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:40 PM
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2010
- Messages
- 1,719
- Reaction score
- 1,091
- Location
- weeki wachee, florida
The pic you posted shows the slotted arm and spring in the wrong position. The spring should pull the slotted kickdown lever towards the front of the car. In other words, where the slotted rod goes on to the carb throttle lever, it should be at the back of the slot, so when the carb lever moves, it moves the kickdown rod at the same time. You could go to search, and look for factory service manual. I downloaded one for mine, and it's helped alot.
Throttle return spring looks over stretched. Diagram from my mopar 70 service manual. Looks like rod from bell crank is to short. The the pin should be at the other end of slot. Trans will slip!!!!/Burn up.
Last edited:
Sonny
It’s all fun til the rabbit gets the gun.
Thanks for the pic. Found the info in the manual. I extended the kickdown rod with (2) 5/16 x 18 couplers, threaded rod, and threaded the original rod the same after cutting it in two. Test drive Tomorrow! Thanks for all the help!
skicker
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 7:40 PM
- Joined
- Dec 15, 2011
- Messages
- 1,284
- Reaction score
- 2,832
- Location
- Cumberland, Maryland
69fourdoor
New Member
pic of bellcrank with alignment pin installed
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Is it true with a manual valvebody you don’t need kickdown linkage?
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Good to know, I was dreading doing the kickdown linkage lol. Thank you
oldbee
Well-Known Member
Now I’m trying to remember where I saved my linkage & put it back on when drag racing days were over? Guess I hid linkage good enuf for the better-half to not find it when doing her quarterly garage cleaning!
Similar threads
- Locked
