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I wondered who would catch that. Ol' eagle eyes Mo did.
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Here we go. One last time...
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I don't think so, at least according to the listing I'm reading from Brewer's?
440SportSatellite
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Indeed.
I wonder if I could ask a favor of anyone reading this who has a 66-69 automatic b-body to take a pic of their crossmember for me, PLEASE?
Heck yes, it would be nice if I could pick up one from a FBBO member.
I think I still have the original crossmember from my '69 before I swapped in the 5 speed. I'm pretty sure it's exactly the same as the one you linked on brewer's website. I'll go take a look in the parts pile tonight. If I still have it and it didn't go away when I sold the old 727 it's yours. I'd just want whatever the cost of shipping is for it.
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440SportSatellite
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Indeed.
I wonder if I could ask a favor of anyone reading this who has a 66-69 automatic b-body to take a pic of their crossmember for me, PLEASE?
Heck yes, it would be nice if I could pick up one from a FBBO member.
Yep. found it right where I thought it should be. Let me know if you want it and I'll get it boxed up and shipped out to you.
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Oh man, that's very kind of you!
Unfortunately, Wayne Brewer already has one on the way to me, along with the clutch fork boot I'm missing - but I am very grateful for the offer!
(By the way, the boot I'm getting is a Mopar original that fits most manual trans cars for many years - seems Wayne's got a ton of those and they're the cheapest, too).
What he explained to me is that Ma Mopar simply decided in the early 70's to "convert" the manual transmissions to use the existing 66-69 b-body automatic crossmember.
I guess the advent of the e-bodies had something to do with that.
Interestingly, once they did that in the early 70's, they used smaller (3/8") through bolts to mount the thing to the car subframe.
The 66-69, like yours and the one I'm getting, retained the larger bolts that I already have.
It also uses the same trans mount I already have as well.
Oddly enough, that crossmember didn't last long in that configuration, since they went with the "spool" type mount pretty quickly after 1970. They must have found out the setup like we have wasn't stout enough and resulted in a lot of busted rubber mounts?
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I also asked Wayne to send me a diagram of the shifter rod setup, since I in my infinite wisdom took all that off the old trans without taking a #$%#%$ picture first.
He said he'd dig something up (after giving me a quick rundown over the phone of how to do it - man, those folks are so helpful!).
What I got, instead of some old copy of an instruction sheet, was these:
He actually took time out of his very busy schedule to go out in the shop and mock up a shifter for me, just to take pics and send them.
Amazing.
If Brewer's isn't already a sponsor of FBBO, Joey needs to get them signed up.
Best service I've ever seen out of a company in this hobby.
Oh, as an aside - when I asked about the adjustments for the over-shift screws, he said to run them out far enough to get them out of the way (if not totally remove them!). He said they aren't really needed on the street and a lot of folks create transmission "problems" that are actually maladjusted shifters!
He said it would be pretty darn hard to actually hurt the transmission by not having them.
He said he'd dig something up (after giving me a quick rundown over the phone of how to do it - man, those folks are so helpful!).
What I got, instead of some old copy of an instruction sheet, was these:
He actually took time out of his very busy schedule to go out in the shop and mock up a shifter for me, just to take pics and send them.
Amazing.
If Brewer's isn't already a sponsor of FBBO, Joey needs to get them signed up.
Best service I've ever seen out of a company in this hobby.
Oh, as an aside - when I asked about the adjustments for the over-shift screws, he said to run them out far enough to get them out of the way (if not totally remove them!). He said they aren't really needed on the street and a lot of folks create transmission "problems" that are actually maladjusted shifters!
He said it would be pretty darn hard to actually hurt the transmission by not having them.
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As I await the arrival of the new Brewer's trans crossmember, I'm back to trying to figure out how to employ my temperature sensor for my aftermarket gauge.
Weird situation, at least for me. That threaded outlet you see open is actually 1/4" NPT!
Can't say as I've ever seen that outlet that small.
The previous owner had rigged a 1/4" pipe nipple in there, then literally glued a hacked off heater hose nipple on top of it (see previous pics on this thread). Oy.
I was lucky to get all that out of there and salvage the threads.
The temperature sensor wants a 3/8" outlet, like the lower heater hose outlet I have currently plugged off with the silver plug at the moment. That top plugged outlet is 1/2" looks like. I can't use the lower 3/8" hole because the pocket it sits in isn't deep enough for the probe to go all the way in.
The probe part of the sensor barely fits in the 1/4" hole but I obviously can't rig that up, unless I put a nipple and bell reducer on there - which the probe won't pass through.
I'm not going to be running heater hoses for now, but would like to be able to in the future.
What the heck was that 1/4" outlet for from the factory?
Can anyone post a pic of the factory heater outlet positions for comparison?
Weird situation, at least for me. That threaded outlet you see open is actually 1/4" NPT!
Can't say as I've ever seen that outlet that small.
The previous owner had rigged a 1/4" pipe nipple in there, then literally glued a hacked off heater hose nipple on top of it (see previous pics on this thread). Oy.
I was lucky to get all that out of there and salvage the threads.
The temperature sensor wants a 3/8" outlet, like the lower heater hose outlet I have currently plugged off with the silver plug at the moment. That top plugged outlet is 1/2" looks like. I can't use the lower 3/8" hole because the pocket it sits in isn't deep enough for the probe to go all the way in.
The probe part of the sensor barely fits in the 1/4" hole but I obviously can't rig that up, unless I put a nipple and bell reducer on there - which the probe won't pass through.
I'm not going to be running heater hoses for now, but would like to be able to in the future.
What the heck was that 1/4" outlet for from the factory?
Can anyone post a pic of the factory heater outlet positions for comparison?
Google "big block heater hose routing" then click on images or Chrysler water pump housings.
Doesn't look like that sensor is going to work?
Doesn't look like that sensor is going to work?
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I can use the 1/2" outlet that's plugged off to the right of the hole in the pic by using a bushing for the temp sensor - but then, what do I do about the heater hose adapter?
Did later model 440's actually use an adapter that necked down to 1/4" NPT?
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Brewer's goodies arrived just now. The crossmember has been straightened and given fresh paint. Looks great!
Clutch fork boot is indeed a Mopar factory part and is brand new.
Always feels like Christmas when the UPS folks arrive.
Jackpot50
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Put your heater hose nipple in that hole and other on bottom hole, the other plug looks like sender goes in it.
Here ya go Ed, don't remember where I got the adapter, but any plumbing/hardware store should be able to help. Plenty of places to get the "correct " nipples online if need be. I just took my battered ones down to the local NAPA and matched something close.
My setup is a MP aluminum housing & pump if that matters
My setup is a MP aluminum housing & pump if that matters
The stock sender is on the driver's side on my housings. 1/8" or 1/4" pipe. How does that sender seal? Looks like it needs something (an adapter) for the sender to seat on lip around top of sender. Then the fitting in pic screws in to seal it. Am I missing something?View attachment 408643
Brewer's goodies arrived just now. The crossmember has been straightened and given fresh paint. Looks great!
Clutch fork boot is indeed a Mopar factory part and is brand new.
Always feels like Christmas when the UPS folks arrive.
Nice to see you got the cross member, don't see trans mount? Is the cavalry coming to help?
Perfect!
Ed,
The mechanical bourdon tube needs an adapter with a seat for the sensor. You can buy it from Summit or Jegs. Autometer, SW and others all use a similar adapter. If the large hole is 1/2"NPT, you'll also need a 3/8" to 1/2'" bushing. The lower hole can be used for your future heater hose fitting, and the 1/4"NPT hole will need a 1/4"NPT to 5/8" hose fitting. Again, Summit or Jegs has those. NAPA probably does as well.
The mechanical bourdon tube needs an adapter with a seat for the sensor. You can buy it from Summit or Jegs. Autometer, SW and others all use a similar adapter. If the large hole is 1/2"NPT, you'll also need a 3/8" to 1/2'" bushing. The lower hole can be used for your future heater hose fitting, and the 1/4"NPT hole will need a 1/4"NPT to 5/8" hose fitting. Again, Summit or Jegs has those. NAPA probably does as well.
oldbee
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colorado and others-- this brass stuff is way easier when you have the pieces in your hand and can look at them. Believe me, 40+ yrs in automotive. I'm just looking out for the younger guys. ( same thing when going for plumbing parts!, no matter ur age)
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Thanks!
Yeah, that top left side hose is going right where I have the 1/4" NPT hole, so I suppose a simple 1/4" to 3/8" plumbing setup will give me the outlet I need for the hose adapter.
Just find it odd their doing that with a 1/4" outlet; I'm used to seeing a 3/8" or even 1/2" hole there.
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The sender is the usual aftermarket deal, where I'm going to need that special type of brass bushing (it's beveled on the 3/8" side) for the sender to screw into and seal.
You can see the tiny little stock idiot light sending unit in my pics right below the 1/4" hole.
I still have the trans mount from the other tranny (oops, now we have "nipples" and "tranny" in the same thread
).Won't need the cavalry for this part, since the engine is bolted in the car at the mounts with the trans already on it. I have the transmission jack under it right now, so positioning the crossmember and getting it bolted up will be aggravating but not physically demanding weight-wise.
I'll put it on last, after I get all the trans stuff put on (shifter, speedo adapter, etc.).
Then it should be just a matter of popping the driveshaft back in and hooking up all the wiring and cable and such (plus filling the trans up with fluid!), so I can finally get off the concrete.
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