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Modern Bullitt build

Pete,
Your timing is perfect! I'm about to start a six week block sanding program (Charger block sanding 101) and looking for students that want to learn sanding skills. This is a free course and sand paper + beer are included ;-)

Thanks
Pat

That's funny as hell . . . I say this as I've just spent 2 weeks getting to "know" what all this really means . . . I've got a long way to go too . . .
 
Doors and fenders are closely aligned after a lot of massaging. Just need put the hood on and then I can start on the final gap alignment.
Thanks
Pat


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Sweet...
start block sanding, block sand some more,
than more & more & more etc. etc. etc.

eating dust for days/weeks

looken' good
 
After a few small modifications to both front fenders I installed the front valance and the hood. The trunk lid is next and then I'll start fine-tuning all the gaps.
Thanks
Pat


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Pat , will you paint it together or pull it back apart? I usually paint mine apart but it is a pain to reassemble with out chipping the paint. But I hate over spray in the door jams or tape lines.
 
Pat , will you paint it together or pull it back apart? I usually paint mine apart but it is a pain to reassemble with out chipping the paint. But I hate over spray in the door jams or tape lines.

I will do all the bodywork and primer with the car assembled. But will remove the fenders, doors, hood and trunk for paining. Drilling the hinges for relocating, along with using small rubber hose on the door edges to prevent any chipping has worked well on my other cars.
Thanks
Pat
 
Looking great still :thumbsup:
 
After a few small modifications to both front fenders I installed the front valance and the hood. The trunk lid is next and then I'll start fine-tuning all the gaps.
Thanks
Pat










Looking really good it's coming together .Cant wait till it's finished .
 
Pete,
Your timing is perfect! I'm about to start a six week block sanding program (Charger block sanding 101) and looking for students that want to learn sanding skills. This is a free course and sand paper + beer are included ;-)

Thanks
Pat
I'd like to sign up, got any air fair and hotel accommodations :lol:
 
Sorry no airfare but You can have all my Hooters Air frequent flyer miles.
The accommodations at the shop come with an old sleeping bag, and a 1/2 full mini bar ;-)
Thanks
Pat
 
Welded and filed the drivers door gaps. I set the sides at 5/32" leaving room for primer, sealer, base coat, and clearcoat. I had to weld a rod across the bottom of the door to close up the large factory gap that varied between 5/16" and 21/64. Now the bottom of the door is a consistent 7/32. Next up is the passenger door.
Thanks
Pat


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Looks great Pat as always. What welder do you use. I have a terrible time welding sheet metal. I have a Miller 225 auto set. If I turn it up to get a decent spot weld I burns through. If I go colder it just don't penetrate. I have done body panels for years but have never been satisfied with the results of my welds. I seem to either have too much to grind down or holes in the weld.
 
The welded I use for body work is a Miller 140. I always use it in the manual mode as I feel I can adjusted it better than in automatic mode.
Thank you
Pat
 
Amazing work Pat! (as usual)
How did you weld a rod to the door and make it disappear? Does it not show on the inside of the door edge? Just curious about this technique.
 
I stitched weld the rod (1/8" ER 70S-3 rod) on using a mig welder. Then I used a 2" grinding pad (40 grit) on a small air 90° die grinder. As I stitch weld I use the grinder the knock down any high weld to help find holes. This also helps keep the welds thin and the welder turn down to keep the heat
low in the panel.
Thank you
Pat

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Wow, great idea for that door gap. I wondered about a way to fix that, mine has a big one also. Wish I had done that, too late now.
 
Wow, great idea for that door gap. I wondered about a way to fix that, mine has a big one also. Wish I had done that, too late now.

I'm not sure if this is just the B body thing but my other charger was the same way with a heavy 3/8" close to a 1/2" gap across the bottom of the doors.
Thank you
Pat
 
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