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Immense grinding/scraping/vibration after swap to new disc parts

cudak888 said:
Hopefully, fellow DIY'ers will come across this thread before they attempt this, thus nullifying Murphy's Law.



Hahaha. Between these rotors (really feel a bit terrible about ruining one - took SO LONG to get the brake issue resolved), the strut rod roll pin, the tie rod ends, and everything else...I've really had the rough end of it. I will NEVER do this again piecemeal. Cass at Dr. Diff has a new dedicated customer for however many more I do in the future...

Believe it or not, the ONE THING I didn't check on the road was the inner right rotor surface. I did check the inner LEFT rotor surface, and that one is A-OK. It's also the caliper I did first.

-Kurt
Click to expand...


Yes, it helps to have a kit all ready to go rather than have the ole Rock Auto piece by piece method going. I use to do all my own brakes from scratch but after fighting to get small pieces like springs it's better to get fully assembled backing plates from Cass. He's a good guy.
 
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dart4forte said:
Yes, it helps to have a kit all ready to go rather than have the ole Rock Auto piece by piece method going. I use to do all my own brakes from scratch but after fighting to get small pieces like springs it's better to get fully assembled backing plates from Cass. He's a good guy.
Click to expand...

Not only does it make more sense, it's cheaper in the long run.

So far, having to start and stop this project every weekend for lack of having the right part has cost me:
  • One rotor
  • One brake pad
  • Two front brake lines (ordered the wrong ones)
  • Two tie rod ends (removal tool damaged the ones I installed initially and added an hour each to the project)
  • The effort of ordering additional rotors when the two rotors I initially bought were kapooie and returning them afterwards
  • Hours and hours of parts chasing
I can understand where someone might go through the effort of sourcing factory caliper brackets or spindles in lieu of the reproductions. That I can see. But for the rest? Makes no sense to do it any other way than to order it from the Diff Man himself.

-Kurt
 
cudak888 said:
Not only does it make more sense, it's cheaper in the long run.

So far, having to start and stop this project every weekend for lack of having the right part has cost me:
  • One rotor
  • One brake pad
  • Two front brake lines (ordered the wrong ones)
  • Two tie rod ends (removal tool damaged the ones I installed initially and added an hour each to the project)
  • The effort of ordering additional rotors when the two rotors I initially bought were kapooie and returning them afterwards
  • Hours and hours of parts chasing
I can understand where someone might go through the effort of sourcing factory caliper brackets or spindles in lieu of the reproductions. That I can see. But for the rest? Makes no sense to do it any other way than to order it from the Diff Man himself.

-Kurt
Click to expand...


Yep, kits do come in handy
 
cudak888 said:
Nothing like a $60 bill of parts on April 2nd for everything that got f'ed up on April 1st.

-Kurt
Click to expand...
It's a learning experience and they're never free!

Learning to laugh at your mistakes and learn from them is the best thing about the hobby. As long as it's on your car and not someone else's.
 
khryslerkid said:
It's a learning experience and they're never free!

Learning to laugh at your mistakes and learn from them is the best thing about the hobby. As long as it's on your car and not someone else's.
Click to expand...

Oh yeah. Been there,.done that for sure
 
cudak888 said:
Ding, ding, ding. You also have ESP:

2qx44g3.jpg


Looks like I'm Idiot of the Week. (Good thing it's the end of the week). Rotor is nicely chewed up on the other side. I will say - if nothing else - it's really easy to install the pads reversed on these calipers, if you're rushed and not paying attention...

Looks like I have a new rotor and pads to buy. I reassembled the junk parts as-is to get the car back down for now.

-Kurt
Click to expand...

Since the rotors are new and have a lot of meat on them, can't you just cut the scored one?
 
NJRR said:
Since the rotors are new and have a lot of meat on them, can't you just cut the scored one?
Click to expand...

Yep. But not keen on risking disabling the car in the driveway. The space I use to work on it isn't where it's kept.

Plus, it's scored at least 1/8" - would rather have both rotors matching in thickness, and this one as an emergency backup.

-Kurt
 
I've been working on an upgrade of brakes myself and getting the bits myself. Like a lot of others - using the old Mopar action article and looking at the Mopar boards for updated information. Luckily I haven't been in a hurry as I run across things.

I will jump in and agree to buying a complete kit if you can. I probably would have saved money and time too. I got my 11.75 brackets from Dr. Diff. His stuff is good I think.

Since I'm cheap and didn't do the brake dust shields, at least I don't have that to worry about. I would have like to use them but can't bring myself to pay that much for them.
 
jeepers007 said:
I've been working on an upgrade of brakes myself and getting the bits myself. Like a lot of others - using the old Mopar action article and looking at the Mopar boards for updated information. Luckily I haven't been in a hurry as I run across things.

I will jump in and agree to buying a complete kit if you can. I probably would have saved money and time too. I got my 11.75 brackets from Dr. Diff. His stuff is good I think.

Since I'm cheap and didn't do the brake dust shields, at least I don't have that to worry about. I would have like to use them but can't bring myself to pay that much for them.
Click to expand...

The dust shields are important. Brake dust when combined with rain can be corrosive especially to alluminum and chrome. It can also have an adverse effect on paint. Something you can do keep your dudt shields clean is to powder coat them. Powdercoating seals the pours of the metal thus not allowing a large amound of brake dust to form.
 
$50 a pair at dr. diff, didn't think that was to bad?
Think I paid $32 ea at dealer in 2001.
 
Since we're on the topic of dust shields - you will find that one hole will not line up quite with the threads on the spindle. It's a manufacturing flaw with the ones made today.

That said, take a file and open the offending hole. Everybody does it, and Cass will tell you the same. Don't worry about it.

-Kurt
 
Didn't the Bendix brakes have a unique dust shield? I'm asking because my experience has been with KH brakes
 
dart4forte said:
Didn't the Bendix brakes have a unique dust shield? I'm asking because my experience has been with KH brakes
Click to expand...

You'll have to show me the calipers you are thinking of. My dust shields are paired with/made for the 1980+ F/M/J-Body calipers.

-Kurt
 
Had to let off a bit of steam (pun not intended, you'll understand why in a minute): I can't seem to catch a break with this brake swap. First the rotor debacle (not really the first debacle, but the most notable to begin with!), then the pad installation, and finally - today - after slamming in yet another rotor and set of brakes, I find that the right caliper piston is also seizing in its bore.

It didn't make itself known until I was far enough away from the house that the drive back was a very eventful 2mph occasion involving much smoke from the rotor and a distinctly terrible smell.

Ahhh...the joys of swapping parts.

Honestly, I hope that SOMEDAY I can enjoy the benefits of having 6 degrees of caster...

-Kurt
 
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