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Over heat issue need help ! 69 Super bee 665 HP

Ratfink Super Bee

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Location
Rocklin ca
Hey guys ! I have 500 Cu In 665 HP Dynod motor that is over heating after about 20 minutes in about 70 degree temps outside. I have a Champion aluminum radiator 22" with a flex a lite 2500 cfm fan as a pusher fan and a 17" flex fan on the motor. The radiator came with the dual 10" elec. Fan shroud that was a puller but there wasn't enough room between water pump and radiator to install as a puller so I reversed and changed it to a pusher.It was overheating so I went to the 16" 2500 pusher and it helped quite a bit. I know I need to install a fan shroud for the motor fan and that may do the trick.I have a 180 degree thermostat in it right now and the fan comes on at 180.The motor is a 400 bored and stroked to 500 with a 4 speed so it has the 22" radiator core support and I was considering changing to the 26" core support but it is an original 69 super bee and I wanted to keep it that way .I am going to check and see if it is running a bit lean and check timing but I am pretty sure its dialed in .Any suggestions from you Mopar gurus would be greatly appreciated !
 
A big motor like that could really benefit from a 26" rad. I put one in my runner, although I didn't cut the opening (factory 22"). I did however have to drill a few holes, not really a big deal. I run a factory shroud with a big flex type fan. My 511 does real good. Radiator is a smith with 2 1.25' rows.

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Dump the electric fans, then get a shroud. Nothing can improve until the shroud is installed. keep the blades within 1/2 inch of shroud sides. You wont know if radiator is too small until you rule out with use of shroud. Flex fans are nice looking but they just don't cut the mustard. Another area is Radiator quality, i know that champion radiators are Chinese so you get nothing for nothing.
 
More detail. Moving, numbers, using a digital temp gun?
 
I don't think a 26" radiator is necessarily the answer, but it would probably help none the less. I've got a 499 in my Super Bee (didn't dyno it, but I'll bet its close to yours) and I'm still using the stock 22" radiator ('053) and it runs fine. 180 degrees all day long. I did have it re-cored by Bob at Glen-Ray and I'm sure its the hi-capacity core for a 22", but other than that its stock. Stock 7 blade fan too. Just FYI.
 
If I'm reading this right you have a pusher fan and mechanical. You had two 10 inchers on the front of the rad and it overheated because they were actually restricting airflow through the rad and switching to a single helped so it should tell you adding a shroud and a better mechanical will improve airflow even more and also getting rid of the pusher all together. A better rad would help also.
 
when you up grade the Engine you must up grade the entire package IMO, the bigger the radiator the Better, but i really don't like the Champion radiators, i run a 2 core with 1.25 tubes, cross flow from Griffin here's a link.
http://www.griffinrad.com/exact_fit.php?tid=2
same here. 28x19 griffin crossflow, 2- 1 1/4 tubes, core fits 22" opening on a 68 form S , .mech. fan on 1/2" spacer, alum home made shroud, 15" elec fan mounted off rad. in front far as I could get it, set to come on at 200, hasn`t come on. 505" should be about the same h.p. as urs. see if u can blow up my avatar.
 
My guess is the pusher is doing more harm than good by blocking air flow. I'd go for the puller with the shroud. While I have no where near the motor you do, that worked well for me. If you still need more cooling, then I'd up the radiator to the 26".
 
Was it built to close tolerances that might create a issue. I had my 383 built to close tolerance and it ran hot for about a month and then cooled down running at 180 degrees even in the heat
 
i have two cars with 440's and both use 22" brass radiators. one will run hot in the summer and the other wouldn't run hot if you drove it thru hell. i think a 26" radiator will do be better because it has more surface area to transfer heat, but a 22" properly set-up with no restrictions/good air circulation under the hood/proper tune-up will work. just look for some other factors like proper fan, shroud, air circulation, pump-pulleys.
 
Just pulled my hair out after replacing a brand new water pump, 22 inch radiator with shroud with another water pump and 3 core aluminum radiator with shroud. Car still got hot.

Wasn't until I replaced the SECOND Napa thermostat with a third one (1/8 bleed hole drilled in all of them) the car now runs cool.
 
Thank you all for your input ! Its funny yesterday my Mopar guru buddy stopped by and we discussed the heating issue and we discussed pulling the radiator core from my other coronet ( 26" radiator ) and installing it in my Bee with a 26 " radiator .He was also adamant about a good shroud which is what everyone says and I agree ! The large Griffin radiator that fits a 22" core support sound like a great way to go ! The reason I posted this is to see what combos you guys have and work !
 
I would also like to note that this Chinese junk radiator was already in the car when I bought it ! I spend countless hours researching and trying to find U.S. made products for my Mopars,and as you guys know it can be very difficult. ! I am OCD when it comes to made in USA ! I will start with the fan shroud first and then replace radiator to Griffin like not so famous Bob has !I will keep you all posted on my progress and success thank you all for responding !

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if you do the alum radiator again research whether it's epoxied together or welded. i've heard epoxied radiators won't cool as well as welded.
 
Still don't know how hot it actually gets. 180 stant superstat, shroud are a must. 26" copper the best.
 
same here. 28x19 griffin crossflow, 2- 1 1/4 tubes, core fits 22" opening on a 68 form S , .mech. fan on 1/2" spacer, alum home made shroud, 15" elec fan mounted off rad. in front far as I could get it, set to come on at 200, hasn`t come on. 505" should be about the same h.p. as urs. see if u can blow up my avatar.
I'm looking at the Griffin catalog Bob can you let me know model number on that radiator ,there are so many combos and I want to make sure it will fit 22" core support ! Thanks buddy !
 
Still don't know how hot it actually gets. 180 stant superstat, shroud are a must. 26" copper the best.
In the summer here in Rocklin Ca it will get over 220 and pop off ,I have original Super Bee gauges (restored ) so it is between 170 and 230
 
I will add this, try to ensure the air flow goes through the radiator core. That includes the stone shield. I see these missing often enough. My 64 didn't have one and I didn't notice until I upgraded to a big block. It made a big difference especially in NY traffic. The shroud is very important but you have to direct the air flow through the radiator. Also, the hood to radiator support gasket keeps air from going over the radiator.

Ernesto
 
if you do the alum radiator again research whether it's epoxied together or welded. i've heard epoxied radiators won't cool as well as welded.
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my 28x19 crossflow griffin has no epoxy in it. I even let the car slip off the floor jack (aftermarket k frame) it bent the radiator and front splash pan up about 1 -1/4" in the center, straightened and repainted the splash pan, the rad. hasn`t leaked a drop so far ! fingures cossed !
 
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