Xcellent
Active Member
May I ask if you replaced any suspension components in the process of this conversion ?
Dr Diff front disc conversion 68 Road Runner
- Thread starter Billccm
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Nope. According to receipts the entire front end was rebuilt around 2011, which was almost 5K miles ago. Shocks, steering components, bushings, etc were part of the rebuild. Visually everything looks fairly new, also.
Xcellent
Active Member
Ok got ya. Thank you!
Quick Friday night update for weekend #6 of the disc conversion.
Rear wheel cylinders are swapped. The brake lines broke loose easily. If the front lines had been this easy I'd already be driving this car!
Removed the Tee and soaked in Brake Kleen. Looks good to me; the flare mating surfaces look good. Again, the original brake lines broke loose easily.
Plan for tomorrow is install the remaining brake lines. Any tips, or tricks for routing the long line from the front to back?
Thanks for any feedback.
Rear wheel cylinders are swapped. The brake lines broke loose easily. If the front lines had been this easy I'd already be driving this car!
Removed the Tee and soaked in Brake Kleen. Looks good to me; the flare mating surfaces look good. Again, the original brake lines broke loose easily.
Plan for tomorrow is install the remaining brake lines. Any tips, or tricks for routing the long line from the front to back?
Thanks for any feedback.
Well I'm done for many days. It seems InLine Tube sent me the incorrect lines for the rear. If you look at the pictures, these are my last three remaining lines. The big line looks like it goes from front to back, okay, but the last two lines will not connect from the rear wheel cylinders to the Tee.
I called InLine Tube, and read one of the part numbers, and he said "...yes, that looks like a front line...". Then I was really bummed when he said eBay orders support are email only, and they won't answer your email 'until Tuesday'.
FRUSTRATED!
I called InLine Tube, and read one of the part numbers, and he said "...yes, that looks like a front line...". Then I was really bummed when he said eBay orders support are email only, and they won't answer your email 'until Tuesday'.
FRUSTRATED!
I just noticed InLine Tubes eBay feedback; 99.3% positive. I assume that is really good over 3,000 sales, but in the last 6 months 13 negative and 11 neutral. Seems they ship incorrect parts from time to time.
What really worries me is I read the feedback that their customer service is really bad and long waits for email replies.
Buyer beware!
What really worries me is I read the feedback that their customer service is really bad and long waits for email replies.
Buyer beware!
69L48Z27
Well-Known Member
That sucks. I try to use Jegs or Summit before eBay. eBay is good for when you don't have the $99 for free shipping or the eBay price is a lot less.
For the rear axle lines you could bend them yourself and get a flare tool. The local parts stores sell steel and NiCop lines usually. Keep you working this weekend...
For the rear axle lines you could bend them yourself and get a flare tool. The local parts stores sell steel and NiCop lines usually. Keep you working this weekend...
I agree with you. I used eBay because I had a few gift cards left over and $4 in eBay bucks about to expire. The price was the same either way direct, or through InLine Tubes eBay 'store'.
I think it is sad InLine Tube penalizes a customer that buys through their eBay store. I did not buy from a third party, I bought from InLine Tube on eBay.
Seraching the web it seems InLine Tube sends incorrect parts quite often. That is a shame as those incorrect orders eat profits quickly and does not help the company reputation at all.
I've had to open three, or four PayPal investigations over the past 5 years, or so, and when you do that things get corrected QUICKLY. Can't say enough good about PayPal protection for the buyer.
IF I have to make my own lines, I will open a PayPal investigation and ask for a partial refund. For now, I'm waiting on Tuesday for my eBay email reply. I'll keep you posted.
InLine Tube did reply, and I have to say I'm happy (although I probably won't have the lines for next weekend). Reply below:
"Bill, the long line is the front to rear line for the car. The other 2 lines are a second set of right and left front lines and not rear axle lines. We apologize and will have the pair of lines out by tomorrow for you. Thank you!"
"Bill, the long line is the front to rear line for the car. The other 2 lines are a second set of right and left front lines and not rear axle lines. We apologize and will have the pair of lines out by tomorrow for you. Thank you!"
Don't get frustrated if they leak. Mine leaked at first from the proportioning valve but got it resolved. Make sure M/C is bled, makes it easier
Are all lines new? I put DOT 5 in mine that's why I asked
Are all lines new? I put DOT 5 in mine that's why I asked
Cool you're almost home! Take your time bleeding them and just keep an eye on the fluid level in the MC. I like to start by gravity bleeding (I'm usually working solo!) and then I'll get a helper to do some pedal pumping at the end to get it 100%...heck last time my kid did the pedal work, it's no big deal
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Make sure you check all those new lines and connections after the final bleed - have an assistant press the brake pedal while you check for leaks. New lines can leak until they are cranked in nice and snug.
Brake pedal is hooked up. I diverted the brake project to get the dash pod switches rebuilt.
All electrical fully functional.
Next weekend will start brake bleed. Haven't driven this car in 8 weeks. I really anxious to get it back on the road.
All electrical fully functional.
Next weekend will start brake bleed. Haven't driven this car in 8 weeks. I really anxious to get it back on the road.
More frustration. It seems the master cylinder is dead. I hooked up bench bleeders, got one small bubble. That's it. Pushing the plunger has no feeling. No resistance-nothing. The old master cylinder take some effort to to push the rod. This one you can breath on the rod and it's at the bottomed out.
Dr Diff says I'm bleeding wrong, or 'sucking air'. The master does not seem to even have any suction.
So, I hooked up the brake lines anyway. All four bleeders open. Nothing is flowing. Reservoir is FULL. Nothing. Should I be getting some flow somewhere? Shouldn't some fluid be going somewhere.
I cracked a line at the proportioning block-nothing. No drip-nada.
What concerns me is the new master cylinder has no resistance-no feeling. It's not even spongy. The old master cylinder dry has resistance and takes EFFORT to push the rod in.
Been back and forth with Dr Diff. What do I need to do next?
Dr Diff says I'm bleeding wrong, or 'sucking air'. The master does not seem to even have any suction.
So, I hooked up the brake lines anyway. All four bleeders open. Nothing is flowing. Reservoir is FULL. Nothing. Should I be getting some flow somewhere? Shouldn't some fluid be going somewhere.
I cracked a line at the proportioning block-nothing. No drip-nada.
What concerns me is the new master cylinder has no resistance-no feeling. It's not even spongy. The old master cylinder dry has resistance and takes EFFORT to push the rod in.
Been back and forth with Dr Diff. What do I need to do next?
This may be too late to help on the brake line flare nuts - but even with Craftsman flare nut wrenches (which aren't actually all that good) on stubborn nuts I clamp them on tightly with a vice grip and then turn. Doing this I've never rounded a nut off. You can buy the individual lines from some of the Mopar parts houses. Individual lines are not much money but you want to avoid having to replace the one that runs across the firewall if you can as it's a bear with the motor in the car.
It seems to me that it is sucking in air from what you are describing at the master. What kind/type of bleeders are you using? I had the same issue with mine and with a "note to self", should've had my glasses on to see the type I put in. Bottom line is one of the bleeders was the wrong size, sucking in air. Once I realized it and both was the right ones, respectively, everything was as advertised.
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Mopars & Missiles
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Check the piston in the M/C bore. It may have seized in the bore and isn't returning when you let off of the pedal or push rod. Happened to me and was identical to your described symptoms, no resistance, no fluid flow, no nothing.
Looked like this -
Looked like this -
Nice to hear from you, Mopar and Missiles. Have not seen you around for awhile.
Was not a productive night. I took the master cylinder off twice. Finally got frustrated and took the master cylinder into the yard and tried to shoot fluid. The front does not move fluid (reservoir for the rear brake), or just trickles very little. The rear reservoir streams, but not like the old master cylinder. I took the old master cylinder and shot fluid across the back yard from both reservoirs.
So, to make matters even worse, I ruined the master cylinder last night on the THIRD install. Not sure how I did this as I finger tight the line nuts almost half way in, but two threads half way in are stripped. It's as if I took a dremel and precisely removed two threads. If I try to tighten past this I get way too much resistance and I don't want to ruin my new lines.
Trying to buy another master cylinder from Dr Diff as he is the only source for the 15/16.
On another note; I can't get the rod out of the new master cylinder. The master cylinder is in my bench vise, and I almost pulled the workbench over trying to get the rod out. When I removed the rod from the old master cylinder it just popped out.
Trying to calm my frustrations, but I'm now questioning my abilities to maintain the mopar hobby.
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