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Gas sender

Cornpatch MO

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1964 Dodge .. I installed a new stainless steel 3/8" sending unit in my gas tank. I also have a new aftermarket gas gauge in the correct ohm range. Fill the tank and the gauge shows full for about 50 miles before the needle starts to move down. When the needle gets to empty, there is still about 5 gallons of gas left. Not all bad, but what can I do to get it more accurate? ..................................MO
 
Sounds like you got a good one why mess it up?
Lol. Yeah, most only show 1/4 tank when it is actually full of gas. Sure wish somebody would make a decent one as I am in the market for one for my Duster right now. Have not had good results from any I have bought in the past 10 years.
 
Mine reads 1/4-tank when it's flowing out the filler-neck.
 
Wish mine worked that well. What're did you get it from CornPatch?
 
Wish mine worked that well. What're did you get it from CornPatch?
agree i wish someone would make a mopar fuel sending unit,i think the ones we are getting are for gm cars i have seen that somewhere around here.
 
agree i wish someone would make a mopar fuel sending unit,i think the ones we are getting are for gm cars i have seen that somewhere around here.
The problem is that the originals were non linear and all the new ones are linear. Original ones read around 10 - 24.5 - 73 ohms. 1/2 tank readings are now no where near 24.5 on the repops.
 
I got one over the winter from Quanta who has always been a reliable supplier in the Corvette and Camaro world and they are getting into Mopar stuff and it's a failure.

I think the problem is the arm with the float. I tested it before I put it in and had the right resistance values, the arm swept with no resistance either. Guage in the car works too. That's the only thing I can think of is the arm needs tweaked.
 
Mine is original and reads 7/8 when full, when it says empty I still have about four gallons in it (takes 15 to fill up again), not to bad I can live with it.
 
The only way for accuracy is to send the sending unit and gauge out to get calibrated.

Is it worth it taking everything out? No....Unless you want too but since you know where it falls now, that's your gauge..
 
I think I've had about 3-4 old mopars that the gas gauge worked fairly well....and I've had hundreds.
 
Mo that's exactly how mine is with my all new setup. Empty is about 4-5 gallons. You are all good
 
1964 Dodge .. I installed a new stainless steel 3/8" sending unit in my gas tank. I also have a new aftermarket gas gauge in the correct ohm range. Fill the tank and the gauge shows full for about 50 miles before the needle starts to move down. When the needle gets to empty, there is still about 5 gallons of gas left. Not all bad, but what can I do to get it more accurate? ..................................MO

Before installing any sending unit, it's adviseable to see what the gas gauge reading is at various points of the potentiometer mounted on the sending unit. Where does it read full, half and empty. You will have to map these positions on a makeup cardboard template of your fuel tank being sure that the mounting flange sits at the correct angle. A slot cut in the cardboard will hold the side of the flange and tape will secure the pickup. Knowing the depth of your tank (profile), which you previously drew on the cardboard you can find the top, bottom and middle positions of the float and the gauges corresponding reading. You may have to bend the float arm or in some cases shorten or lengthen it to get the right reading. This is the only way to calibrate a gauge and don't be surprised if you find the float would hit the top or bottom of your tank if installed as is. Use temporary extending wires from the sending unit to the existing unit so you don't have to remove the gauge and make sure your template is on the same angle as the tank sitting in the car. An angle finder works fine for this.Once you're satisfied with the adjustments, install the unit. There are also digital boxes you can buy that act as an interface between any sender and any gauge for about $100. These require you to know the capacity of your tank and do simple adjustments as you add certain quantities of fuel. They work great and calculate ohmage output across the entire band from empy to full.
 
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1964 Dodge .. I installed a new stainless steel 3/8" sending unit in my gas tank. I also have a new aftermarket gas gauge in the correct ohm range. Fill the tank and the gauge shows full for about 50 miles before the needle starts to move down. When the needle gets to empty, there is still about 5 gallons of gas left. Not all bad, but what can I do to get it more accurate? ..................................MO

I have no advice to offer, but based on some gauges I've had/have yours sounds pretty good. At least you're not out of fuel when the gauge hits 1/4.
 
agree i wish someone would make a mopar fuel sending unit,i think the ones we are getting are for gm cars i have seen that somewhere around here.
Wish mine worked that well. What're did you get it from CornPatch?
I got mine from Jeff at " 521 Restorations" ( I highly recommend) It is said that he tests his gas senders before he ships them out. It works very well except for what I stated in the post...............................MO
 
agree i wish someone would make a mopar fuel sending unit,i think the ones we are getting are for gm cars i have seen that somewhere around here.
I suspesion you are right. It appears that either their is not enough travel in the resistor, or that the float arm needs to be bent up or down? ..............................MO
 
Before installing any sending unit, it's adviseable to see what the gas gauge reading is at various points of the potentiometer mounted on the sending unit. Where does it read full, half and empty. You will have to map these positions on a makeup cardboard template of your fuel tank being sure that the mounting flange sits at the correct angle. A slot cut in the cardboard will hold the side of the flange and tape will secure the pickup. Knowing the depth of your tank (profile), which you previously drew on the cardboard you can find the top, bottom and middle positions of the float and the gauges corresponding reading. You may have to bend the float arm or in some cases shorten or lengthen it to get the right reading. This is the only way to calibrate a gauge and don't be surprised if you find the float would hit the top or bottom of your tank if installed as is. Use temporary extending wires from the sending unit to the existing unit so you don't have to remove the gauge and make sure your template is on the same angle as the tank sitting in the car. An angle finder works fine for this.Once you're satisfied with the adjustments, install the unit. There are also digital boxes you can buy that act as an interface between any sender and any gauge for about $100. These require you to know the capacity of your tank and do simple adjustments as you add certain quantities of fuel. They work great and calculate ohmage output across the entire band from empy to full.
I agree 100%. I have screwed with the gas gauge and sender( stock and aftermarket) so much, that based on the other guys comments, I think I will learn to live with it. Thanks all.......................MO
 
By the way if you use a GM gauge with Chrysler tank the gauge will read backwards. Full when empty and empty when full.
 
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