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Weight reduction

496BEE

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In my quest to run 10s I started attacking the weight in my 73 charger which is probably one of the heaviest muscle cars of all time LOL. Now this is a tough question because I don't want to gut the car or do anything that noticeable besides switching to racing buckets. I also don't want to switch the k member $$$ or remove my ps /pb. So far I've taken out :
Heater box
Wiper motor and assembly
Switch to an aluminum radiator
Switched my buckets to racing seats
Installed fiberglass hood
When I run at the track will be leaving exhaust to rear axle with dumps.

Just wanted to doublecheck if I missing anything that's an easy weight reduction. (also thinking about switching my steel wheels for race stars)
 
You've got a long row to hoe to hit the 10s but I'm sure you will get some good ideas from the folks here. Just my 2 cents but I agree with your overall plan, don't ruin your car by gutting it beyond repair. Good luck:thumbsup:
 
Swapping the steelies will save a few pounds, other than that you're about out of options as far as easy cost effective, non look altering changes go, how far off of 10's are you? What kind of suspension set up are you running? Possibly try tweaking that to improve times... me personally I'd rip the whole exhaust off when I go racing and run open headers.
 
You could also remove the back seat when you hit the track that'll take a few pounds off
 
Not sure if you have one already or not but 10.99 and quicker requires a rollbar, so you're going to add some weight there.
 
The car has been 10.22, I ran an 11.50 with a 1.69 60' not launching correct. This was also in 90+ degree very humid may weather . . . Since then I've done a decent amount of updates and will probably be running 200lbs lighter this time. . .
My suspension:
8 3/4 with strange axles , 3.91s , sure grip
Comp adjustable rear shocks
Strange adjustable front shocks
Calvert mono leaf springs
Cal traks
I went from a 28 to a 30" tire and kept same gears and also adjusted the suspension and shocks more aggressively
Swapping the steelies will save a few pounds, other than that you're about out of options as far as easy cost effective, non look altering changes go, how far off of 10's are you? What kind of suspension set up are you running? Possibly try tweaking that to improve times... me personally I'd rip the whole exhaust off when I go racing and run open headers.
 
Really don't want to put a bar in the car, so hoping to get a good pass in before I get the boot lol.
Not sure if you have one already or not but 10.99 and quicker requires a rollbar, so you're going to add some weight there.
 
Really don't want to put a bar in the car, so hoping to get a good pass in before I get the boot lol.
Ya I have the 2017 rule book and looked it up, you can probably make a few passes ibefore anyone says anything depending how strict they are. What was the set up when it went 10.22, that's a pretty significant difference compared to what you're running now
 
O **** typo I ment 11.22! . . . Man I wish 10.22!
Ya I have the 2017 rule book and looked it up, you can probably make a few passes ibefore anyone says anything depending how strict they are. What was the set up when it went 10.22, that's a pretty significant difference compared to what you're running now
 
O **** typo I ment 11.22! . . . Man I wish 10.22!
I was gonna say lol you're not a very good driver hahah, you got a ways to go to hit 10's, have you considered a cam swap and some port work?
 
I think I can do it as is, the car been 11.22 with a different drive in good weather. . . I did some improvements plus now I'll be about 200lbs lighter. . .heads are ported and the cam is a hydraulic roller 6.15 lift , 240/248 duration 112 lsa
I was gonna say lol you're not a very good driver hahah, you got a ways to go to hit 10's, have you considered a cam swap and some port work?
 
You are probably gonna need at least 675HP to go into the 10's.
Big, big diff between 11.50 and 10.99. Just sayin....
Good Luck in the quest for the 10's
I started at 12 flat and about $18,000 to $20,000 later I hit 10.48 @ 126.66 best et and mph.
Go figure....lol....
 
There are numerous places to lose weight on mid 70's B bodies (I had a 74 Road Runner).
There was a 10 lb weight bolted to the transmission mount. I took that off and felt no ill effects. My bumper guards weighed about 5 lbs each (x4). I removed the heavy inner bumper liners, which weighed about 25 lbs front, 35 lbs rear. I made front bumper brackets from aluminum to shave more weight from the front. Couldn't use the bumper jack after that but I never liked them anyway. I took out my rear window regulators and used a bracket from a 73 Road Runner with non-roll down rear windows to hold the back glass in place. That is just the stuff I can recall easily. I loved that car, wish I still had it.
 
Again car has been 11.22 in good weather and now is 200lbs lighter with other updates
You are probably gonna need at least 675HP to go into the 10's.
Big, big diff between 11.50 and 10.99. Just sayin....
Good Luck in the quest for the 10's
I started at 12 flat and about $18,000 to $20,000 later I hit 10.48 @ 126.66 best et and mph.
Go figure....lol....
 
What are the bumper inner liners?
There are numerous places to lose weight on mid 70's B bodies (I had a 74 Road Runner).
There was a 10 lb weight bolted to the transmission mount. I took that off and felt no ill effects. My bumper guards weighed about 5 lbs each (x4). I removed the heavy inner bumper liners, which weighed about 25 lbs front, 35 lbs rear. I made front bumper brackets from aluminum to shave more weight from the front. Couldn't use the bumper jack after that but I never liked them anyway. I took out my rear window regulators and used a bracket from a 73 Road Runner with non-roll down rear windows to hold the back glass in place. That is just the stuff I can recall easily. I loved that car, wish I still had it.
 
If you remove the bumper, there is the Chrome part you see and there is a piece of steel inside to reinforce the chrome part. The bumpers on these mid -late 70's cars are crazy reinforced. The 'rules' back then were to prevent damage to the vehicle, where as todays rules are to prevent damage to the passengers.
 
I believe there is a company that makes fiberglass fenders for the 71-74 chargers. It might be the same company that makes the hoods. I think its VFN fiberglass. I'm not sure the weight difference, but every little bit helps.
 
When I modify the bumper brackets I'll defiantly take the inners out
If you remove the bumper, there is the Chrome part you see and there is a piece of steel inside to reinforce the chrome part. The bumpers on these mid -late 70's cars are crazy reinforced. The 'rules' back then were to prevent damage to the vehicle, where as todays rules are to prevent damage to the passengers.
 
I saved 60lbs off my 69 belvedere just in glass rear bumper, decklid and my homemade glass rear bumper brackets. Relocating the battery put that 60lbs back on the rear and off the nose.

Glass hood will save a ton, 'specially pinning it on vs hinges.

Glass Front bumper and aluminum brackets will save another 20 or more.

Easy 120 lbs here.
 
I wish they made glass bumpers for my car... I also thought about aluminuim brackets, just not sure how to make them
I saved 60lbs off my 69 belvedere just in glass rear bumper, decklid and my homemade glass rear bumper brackets. Relocating the battery put that 60lbs back on the rear and off the nose.

Glass hood will save a ton, 'specially pinning it on vs hinges.

Glass Front bumper and aluminum brackets will save another 20 or more.

Easy 120 lbs here.
 
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